Yet another brake thread.
The push rod is something you have to adjust on the vehicle. I had to extend the rod on mine probably a good 1/4" as it was too short. I've read you are supposed to also re-adjust the rod when you replace the master.
You can get a metal booster. I've heard good things about them. I think they cost slightly more than the Cardone booster. Don't know who makes them though.
Thats why a form like this is so valuable .
I am suprised you are having so much trouble with the fit.
Matt
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
You could give Cardone a call to let them know the 90-91 vette has a different booster than 84-89 and see what they say.
Just as an aside, when testing my 89's brakes after a complete flush, I do a couple of panic stops from 25 MPH on a dry road to check for pedal feel and lack of ABS engagement. The ABS should not kick in unless one or more wheels lock-up and the ABS senses that Vette is still moving.
Josh I have talked with Cardone on several occasions and while they seem interested and seem to agree might be a difference they don't really offer a solution.
I did talk to bosster dewey as he is the only person I found that would rebuild mine. His prices are very reasonable and turnaround is quick. Another upside is you get a booster with all your hard parts in the rebuild so it will both fit and look original right down to date codes proper plating etc. This is not important to me but if you a show car this must matter a good deal to keep it all as manufactured. He also reccomended no matter what I do to keep my core in case anything i dream up does not work in the long term I will have the proper parts to make it right in the end. He also advised that new old stock boosters will probably have a very short life span unless in an airtight sealed bag and even with that a booster that does not get regular exercise will fail early. Something to consider on a car that has been sitting and possibly something else to do if your car sits in storage... while waming it up to get rid of condensation exercise the brakes a bit to flex the booster.
In the next day or two I will take accurate measurements of the exact differences and if i mod a Cardone generic booster will post pics of what i did to make it work in a 91.
As a last thing if anyone feels these are good tech tips and accurate with some more documentation by me feel free to add them to the ch tips section.. BTW this is not shade tree stuff I am a very accomplished engineer in the race car biz and eqully good machinist..LOL.. Booster dewey seemed very impressed with the R&D done and how it was done and even better a Corvette guy as we discussed how we both squirel away take off parts just in case we need a core later.
Dave
To properly test your ABS system, you need the ABS test module for your year Vette. A shade tree substitute would be braking on a wet surface or one covered with sand, gravel, etc. that will allow a friction-free wheel to lock-up. No lock-up, no ABS intervention. Lock-up, but no ABS intervention - ABS has a problem!
Based upon your latest posts, you seem to feel that you're not generating the amount of braking multiplication that a properly functioning vacuum brake booster should provide. Hope that you've located the problems and that solves your braking problem.
If you can neither lock up the wheels or activate the ABS you have what sounds like dangerously weak brakes.

Also, ABS was actually invented to maintain directional control of aircraft when braking on wet, icey, or snowy runways when the coefficient of friction for the braking wheels was rapidly approaching zero.
Also, ABS was actually invented to maintain directional control of aircraft when braking on wet, icey, or snowy runways when the coefficient of friction for the braking wheels was rapidly approaching zero.
BTW, I never said it wasn't useful in conditions of limited traction. But statistically I'm far more likely to need it when the jackass in front of me brakes suddenly for an exit ramp on a fine, sunny day.
The FSM says, "The purpose of ABS is to maintain maneuverability under severe braking conditions on most road surfaces" and to ..."prevent the braked wheels from locking." There seem to be two assumptions here: 1) ABS is expected to activate under certain conditions; and 2) brake lock-up under severe braking is not only possible but expected without ABS assist. If you don't drive on "most road surfaces" then naturally this does not apply to you.
But if you are happy with your brakes, good on 'ya.
Thats why a form like this is so valuable .
Dave





Suspension, tires, pavement type, and about a million other things play a part in whether the tires lock up.
Your ALWAYS statement is dead wrong.





Unless some specific exceptions are noted I think we have to assume that he was talking about an OEM setup. My ALWAYS was in the same vein, kind of like saying a compass always points north. Yes, in geological epochs past the earth's poles have reversed and will again, but is it really necessary to add all those qualifiers?
To take it down a notch, from my own real world testing (which is what you used) base C4 brakes won't lock up 275 series Michelin PS2s on dry smooth pavement. I know the brakes in my 87 are in 100% perfect working order and they don't get into ABS at all with the PS2s on the car. With the stock wheels and junk tires they will lock up all day long if you try.
If you get into the ABS regularly on dry smooth pavement in a stock brake C4 your tires are most likely hard as a rock pieces of crap... or you are an idiot and braking around corners.
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Last edited by RedLS1GTO; Oct 13, 2010 at 03:45 PM.











