Rotor temps?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 103
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From: Florissant Missouri
Rotor temps?
I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 94 coupe. The pads drag a little on the rotors even with the caliper pistons pushed all the way in. After I finished I took a drive around the block (a little over a mile) and the rotors weren't discolored or anything but seemed pretty warm to the touch for such a short distance. I'm going to go to HF tomorrow and buy a non-contact thermometer so I can see what temp they're getting to. Anybody have any idea what kind of temp I should expect ? This is city driving with a 25 MPH speedlimit and 4 or 5 stop signs.
BTW, the new rotors are cross drilled and slotted and the new pads are ceramic. The brakes felt fine when stopping but I don't want to overheat the new rotors.
BTW, the new rotors are cross drilled and slotted and the new pads are ceramic. The brakes felt fine when stopping but I don't want to overheat the new rotors.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, pads are supposed to drag a little on the rotors. Sounds like this wasn't your first brake job - if the rotors are straight the pads should always be in light contact with the rotors.
Of course the brakes were warm to the touch, I imagine you used them once or twice on your short cruise!
Of course the brakes were warm to the touch, I imagine you used them once or twice on your short cruise!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Florissant Missouri
But how hot should they be?
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, pads are supposed to drag a little on the rotors. Sounds like this wasn't your first brake job - if the rotors are straight the pads should always be in light contact with the rotors.
Of course the brakes were warm to the touch, I imagine you used them once or twice on your short cruise!
Of course the brakes were warm to the touch, I imagine you used them once or twice on your short cruise!
.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 26
From: Somewhere nowhere
go to a quiet back road, and beat the pissss out of the brakes. Repeat till the brakes are SMOKING.
It's called bedding, and there is a proper procedure for it.
Some pads come with the bedding procedure in the box.
It's called bedding, and there is a proper procedure for it.
Some pads come with the bedding procedure in the box.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Florissant Missouri
I don't dispute whatyou are saying, but the box the pads came in say no breakin needed. Maybe I'm confused. Is breakin and bedding 2 different things?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Recheck the slide pin(S). Removing corrosion is helpful. Wire wheeling.
Were You sold the correct brake pads for Your car ? Something to ponder on too.
Does the car stop evenly when braking with moderate brake pedal pressure applied ?
Collapsed old brake hoses cause untold grief and tough to diagnose.
Cracking the caliper bleeder screw open will help diagnose the problem braking corner.
If Fluid shoots out powerfully when opening the bleeder( no brakes applied at brake pedal), then you have found the bad brake hose.
Best to check all 4 brake hoses on Your Corvette in this manner.
They usually fail together in pairs or all 4.
Someone might have mistakingely poured in Power steering fluid at on time. It happens more than you think it does.
Young kids in a rush at a quick lube center check and top off all fluids like they are supposed to.
But grab a bottle of PS fluid instead of Dot 3 brake fluid.
Go back and check with each wheel off.
BR
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Florissant Missouri
Recheck to see if the brake pads move freely in the caliper brackets.
Recheck the slide pin(S). Removing corrosion is helpful. Wire wheeling.
Were You sold the correct brake pads for Your car ? Something to ponder on too.
Does the car stop evenly when braking with moderate brake pedal pressure applied ?
Collapsed old brake hoses cause untold grief and tough to diagnose.
Cracking the caliper bleeder screw open will help diagnose the problem braking corner.
If Fluid shoots out powerfully when opening the bleeder( no brakes applied at brake pedal), then you have found the bad brake hose.
Best to check all 4 brake hoses on Your Corvette in this manner.
They usually fail together in pairs or all 4.
Someone might have mistakingely poured in Power steering fluid at on time. It happens more than you think it does.
Young kids in a rush at a quick lube center check and top off all fluids like they are supposed to.
But grab a bottle of PS fluid instead of Dot 3 brake fluid.
Go back and check with each wheel off.
BR
Recheck the slide pin(S). Removing corrosion is helpful. Wire wheeling.
Were You sold the correct brake pads for Your car ? Something to ponder on too.
Does the car stop evenly when braking with moderate brake pedal pressure applied ?
Collapsed old brake hoses cause untold grief and tough to diagnose.
Cracking the caliper bleeder screw open will help diagnose the problem braking corner.
If Fluid shoots out powerfully when opening the bleeder( no brakes applied at brake pedal), then you have found the bad brake hose.
Best to check all 4 brake hoses on Your Corvette in this manner.
They usually fail together in pairs or all 4.
Someone might have mistakingely poured in Power steering fluid at on time. It happens more than you think it does.
Young kids in a rush at a quick lube center check and top off all fluids like they are supposed to.
But grab a bottle of PS fluid instead of Dot 3 brake fluid.
Go back and check with each wheel off.
BR
Last edited by xphnmn; Oct 16, 2010 at 09:33 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
I put new slide pins in and yes, I put brake grease on them and the slide area at the top of the caliper mounting bracket. Just a lite film in both areas. I dont believe I have a hose issue. I cracked the bleeders open as I pushed the caliper pistons in and had what I feel was normal flow. No spurts or dribbles. I plan on replacing them with SS lines in the spring and also new powder coated calipers. I don't know if they are the originals or not but no signs of cracking or bulging. The brake fluid is dirty (plan on flushhing the system after I replace the rears) but not black. Just a darker amber color. The new pads are pretty thick as new pads should be and although they physically look the same as the old pads (except for the wear on the old pads) and fit like they should, it's hard to say whether they are the "correct" pads for the car. I'll have to look up the manufacturers part number to see if they are the correct fitment. As thick as the new pads are there's little room for the pads to move but they must be because there was no sign of grabbing or pulling after 6 or 7 stops.
Just for future reference,........
Brake hoses that collapse are not visually noticable to our eyes from the outside.
They Collapse from the outside - in.
Brake hose are double wall construction.
The outer jacket is for abrasion protection.
The inner jacket is what actually collapses with time and oil contaminated brake fluid.
Apply the brakes once or several times while stopping with a defective collapsed brake hose,
and the hose collapses shut suddenly internal somewhere along its length.
Few hundred pounds of PSI of Dot 3 brake fluid remains inside of the brake caliper. it wont release when required to.
So the brake pads drag heavily on the brake rotor.
If You ever find a defective brake hose anytime, take a sharp pocket knife and the hose crosswise across its length. Then cut it diagonal.
You will see the inside rubber jacket has been chemical swollen shut.
BR
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