Open exhaust with O2S in the collector will cause air intrusion that will affect the sensor readings ... lean ... but closed loop shouldn't affect the operation of the engine , unless the O2S failure is sending the ECM into limp home mode ..... car will run ... crappy at best . But , a code 13 is an open circuit or defective O2S and shouldn't cause limp home to kick in ... check for vacuum leaks ... brake boosters are notorious or the charcoal canister line to the underside of the throttle body ... good luck ...

 

Oh yeah about my mother...[/QUOTE]

You mothers fine.Shes wanted me to tell you that as shes laying next to me in my bed.J/K
What is your fuel pressure & pressure under load?Are the spark plug wires hooked-up correctly(firing order)?Test that oxygen sensor.Look on Youtube for a very easy & through test on oxygen sensors.Look at the connector where oxygen sensor plugs in.May have bad gas that is gumming up fuel rail & injectors.Did you have the car tuned after all that work was done?Clean & test mass airflow sensor-again Youtube.Keep us updated & let us know about some of these questions

 

I've got this exact same problem it happened to me this morning. I just dove it to dinner last night around 9pm and woke up this morning to go to work at 5am, started up "a lil harder to start up than usual but did start up" let it idle for about 2 min, put it in reverse and pushed on the gas a lil and it just fell on its face, didn't die but but just wouldn't increase in rev's if I really feather it I can get it to kinda rev up but its popin and coughin and in small spurts will sound ok then it pops and cuts out again but if I just let off the gas it will idle perfect. actually better than it normally does.lol. I havent got to do any checks on it yet but will when i get off work. BTW I don't see what it would matter but I just changed the brake master cylinder last night and I didnt drive it hard at all last night.

 

Just guessing here (like some-no names-others), but could your problem be the ignition module or coil or wires not sitting tight in the dizzy?
Maybe something to look into for the OP as well...

 

all are new along with the distributor, prolly only 1500 miles on them if that. It idles perfect but just the slightest throttle will make it cut out. I don't understand what could have gone wrong just over night because it ran perfect last night.

 

So, you have been playing with the brake pedal as well since you replaced the booster?
Maybe something with the contacts on the brake pedal for the brake lights and/or cruise?

 

I didn't change the booster, just the MS and I didn't touch the pedal. I just took the old MS off then put the new one on and bench bled it, thats it. BTW brakes works great now.

 

lol when i got home first thing i did was start it up, same thing, i pop the hood and immediately i see what was wrong. My hose clamp that connects the MAFS to the TB tube came loose leaving a .5in gap between the TB and tube. Too much air in with out the ecu knowing which starves it for gas because the ecu won't send more gas.
EASY FIX THANK GOD!!!!!!!

 

I meant the electronic spark control over by the heater. I disconnected mine one time when the engine was surging, and it straightened right out.
Another time, when the car wouldn't accelerate, I disconnected it then plugged it back in and then everything was fine except I had a service engine soon light. It ran good till I got home and started checking things out.

As an interesting side note, one time, after a good rain, (the car never got wet because it was in the garage) but the next morning, I started the car to go to work, and it wouldn't idle below 2000 RPM.
I took the truck to work, and it rained again during the day. When I got home, same thing. 2000 RPM idle. I finally picked over everything until I got to the throttle position sensor, and apparently when it was made, they forgot to seal it when the two halves were glued together after they put the guts in it.
THe moisture in the air affected it to the point where it wouldn't go back to the .54 volts.
I removed it, and then baked it in the oven at 200 degrees for an hour. Then I sealed it with a light coat of silicone along the parting surface. I reinstalled it to check it, and because I'm lazy, I just recently changed it when I changed the engine. It lasted for 6 years just being ugly looking with the silicone all over it.

Moral of story:
Check everything, even the things that don't make sense.

 

Ok, one up ´n running, one (?) left to go...

 

to everyone...
Do the vetts have a nutral switch that limits RPMS?

 

if its fuel: could you squirt fuel into intake with spray bottle and get higher revs or is this too dangerous / redneck.... ?hey guys watch this? Just a little!