C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 01:14 AM
  #21  
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should I replace the pulsator while I am in there? do these go bad?
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 03:17 AM
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Ya think????

Originally Posted by nutz4c4
My money is on a ruptured pulsator in the tank.

Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Nov 20, 2010 at 03:20 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 06:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Elrick
should I replace the pulsator while I am in there? do these go bad?
Yes they do go bad. You can eliminate the pulsator by using the correct length of 5/16 fuel injection hose. It may have come in the box with the new fuel pump. Just double clamp each end.

Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Ya think????
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #24  
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put new fuel pump and new pulsator in today. have to say I am a bit scared to put the neg battery cable back on and turn the key. I had to cut off the original + & - wire clips and reattach to the new pump because it did not have the same blade connector. obviously I don't know what I am doing here but I have made it this far. It seems to me that gas and voltage don't mix too well. the pump and connectors are submerged in gas so my guess is lack of o2. I used butt connector with heat shrink to attach new pump connectors. I will await further confirmation that this is okay before adding power. lastly, what exactly does the pulsator do? Pulse? go ahead, poke fun at me but I have come along way. just don't want to go up in flames. Thanks for all your help guys
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 06:43 AM
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Your connections should be fine. The pulsator was designed to stop the fuel lines from "hammering", it is supposed to cancel out the hydraulic pulse of the fuel pump so the metal fuel lines don't rattle.
Let us know what you have for fuel pressure now.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 07:42 AM
  #26  
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clean your maf and throttle body. Make sure the connections are good. May save you a lot of time and work.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 10:31 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kenmohr
clean your maf and throttle body. Make sure the connections are good. May save you a lot of time and work.
took off the MAF and sprayed it down with MAF cleaner, took off TB and cleaned front and back plates and put in new IAC so unless I screwed up there I should be okay. will check fuel pressure at the rail before I start. I also did new plugs, cap rotor and coil. thats why I initially figure I must have screwed something up. thanks
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Did ya start it yet?

A Little hint for you when trouble shooting. Only change ONE item at a time.
What you are doing is "shotgunning" parts in a hopeful attempt to get it fixed.

The problem with this technique is your not going to know what actually fixed the initial porblem.
Furthermore you could have also CREATED MORE PROBLEMS by tampering in other areas.

Fire the puppy up and tell us what its doing now.


Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Nov 21, 2010 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #29  
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Did you check to see that there was any gas in it? 3 PSI sounds like an empty tank. It may be time to fix the 'ol gas gauge sender.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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just started it up. when I turn the key on I get 3psi at the rail. when I started the car I got 38. car ran great and I could give it gas and it would rev up great so I guess it was the fuel pump. however, when I turned it off I got a flood of gas under the car. luckily I was smart enough to do all this outside. I know all my hose connections were good. I am thinking that my problem might be where the fuel pump and pulsator meet. there is a plastic tube on top of the fp that slides into the pulsator and meets up with a metal tube. Is the fuel pump tube supposed to slide inside of this metal tube or does the metal tube slide into the plastic tube on the fp. I thought that they just met up against each other inside the pulsator because when I took the pulsator off these 2 tubes had the same diameter so maybe I have the wrong pump? I don't want to fool around "trying" to fix this. Please advise. I disconnected the - bat an taped it all up for now. letting the gas evaporate.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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who wants to buy an 86? went back in and replaced all the rubber hose, which I should have done to begin with. checked all the connections at the pump. put it back together and snapped the head off of the last bolt for the FP assembly. the threaded part is in the hole just the head broke off it's not going anywhere but if it ever twisted out there is a hole right to the fuel. now I am guessing I need to remove tank/gas to drill out this bolt. This sucks.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Too tight?

Or were the threads all gunked up and you torqued the head off?

So far you've saved yourself a ton of money in labor and gained the same in experience.

Don't stop now. The fun is just beginning!!!
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 10:39 PM
  #33  
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When I tightened those FPR bolts. I didn't use a ratchet. I used a hand held screwdriver with the T10 bit on the end. It is real easy to put alot of torque down on small bolts with a ratchet.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:18 PM
  #34  
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what if I throw some black permatex on the bolt head that snapped? For now I just want to see if the problem is fixed, which it seemed to be. although I would rather not blow myself up in the process. There are a lot of bolts around the perimeter and the bolt is threaded in so I am thinking ptex will stop broken off bolt from spinning out as well as seal in vapor. I am hesitant to pull a hack job with possible deadly consequences. sory to keep all of you in suspense but I do appreciate/need all the advice. tomorrow mourning I turn the key again. I am leaving the gas door off so I can see if I still have a leak. please stop me if any of this sounds crazy.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Did you check to see that there was any gas in it? 3 PSI sounds like an empty tank. It may be time to fix the 'ol gas gauge sender.
actually, just before this problem I ran it down until the gas light came on, then filled it up. Thats why I changed fuel filter.thought that maybe it sucked up some crap
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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You might well have damaged the pump if the junk at the bottom somehow made it through the sock.
Great job you have done so far. Don't give up. Sometimes we all get a little frustrated when the car fights us back.
I am proud of the stick-to-it attitude you have shown so far. Just remember, every car is full of little jobs that add up to a "nice car".
A lot of the time it takes a bunch of these jobs to get there.
You can just use the black silicone sealer to seal the hole.
Chance are the fuel won't slosh out of there anyway. But be safe, if you smell gas at the back of the car, you have a leak.
Don't mess around, try it, get satisfied that it's fixed, and then drill the bolt with a #21 drill about half way through the bolt, go to Home Depot and buy their screw extractors.
THen just back out the broken bolt. Remember, it is metric, so no standard bolt replacement.
If you screw that up, you have to do a helicoil. Just go to Ace hardware, and get a metric assortment set, but you will have to get creative with a roll of duct tape to keep the shavings out of the tank.
REMEMBER! No vacuum cleaner! the fumes will explode the vacuum,. and you will have lost your leg or worse, your life.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
You might well have damaged the pump if the junk at the bottom somehow made it through the sock.
Great job you have done so far. Don't give up. Sometimes we all get a little frustrated when the car fights us back.
I am proud of the stick-to-it attitude you have shown so far. Just remember, every car is full of little jobs that add up to a "nice car".
A lot of the time it takes a bunch of these jobs to get there.
You can just use the black silicone sealer to seal the hole.
Chance are the fuel won't slosh out of there anyway. But be safe, if you smell gas at the back of the car, you have a leak.
Don't mess around, try it, get satisfied that it's fixed, and then drill the bolt with a #21 drill about half way through the bolt, go to Home Depot and buy their screw extractors.
THen just back out the broken bolt. Remember, it is metric, so no standard bolt replacement.
If you screw that up, you have to do a helicoil. Just go to Ace hardware, and get a metric assortment set, but you will have to get creative with a roll of duct tape to keep the shavings out of the tank.
REMEMBER! No vacuum cleaner! the fumes will explode the vacuum,. and you will have lost your leg or worse, your life.
thanks you have been very insightful
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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I am still alive and the car now runs great. fuel pressure around 38, idles at 65 to 68. oil pressure at 70. I ran it for 15 minutes and watched all the gas lines for leaks. so I thank you all for the help. as usual, you guys keep me in this game. hopefully this all works out. the only thing that bothers me is that bolt that broke off.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Now - good luck and enjoy your ride
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kenmohr
Now - good luck and enjoy your ride
thanks
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