Stop crank
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Arlington TX
Stop crank
I'm trying to remove my crank pulley in my lt1 auto but the crank is turning so I can't get the bolts off. I've taken the starter off and loosened the fl toywheel cover but can't seem to stop it with a screw driver. Any tips on where to put the screw driver or other options? It looks like I'd have to remove the exhaust to get that cover all the way out.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
When you are unscrewing the balancer bolt, the motor will want to turn counterclockwise when looking from the front. On the driver's side, under the car, the flywheel teeth will be moving up toward the block. Have a helper wedge a large screwdriver holding a tooth against the block. This should hold the motor when you unscrew the bolt. If you have a manual, put it in 6th gear, apply the handbrake hard and unscrew the bolt.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Arlington TX
Might the rope method risk damaging a valve? I need to find a helper and a much bigger screwdriver.
So to clarify you dont actually stick the screw driver in the teeth more along side them just putting pressure on them? I have a large screw driver and it is not wide enough to fill the gap. It's maybe an inch wide.
So to clarify you dont actually stick the screw driver in the teeth more along side them just putting pressure on them? I have a large screw driver and it is not wide enough to fill the gap. It's maybe an inch wide.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
The rope method might damage a valve if the motor is on the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valve is open. The rope is good for holding valves up during seal replacement, but might not be a good idea to keep a motor from turning.
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
If you have an old serp belt (not the one that's going back in the car), wrap it around the pulley and clamp it tight with a large vise-grips. Orient the vise-grips so that it will act as a lever with the fixed jaw bearing on the belt where it wraps on the pulley. Use an appropriate piece of exhaust pipe, etc. that will fit over the vise-grips completely. Now you have a lever to haul on against the pull of the wrench on the bolt. Unless everything is rusted up solid, this will let you get the bolts out by yourself.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 39
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From: Arlington TX
That's impressive steve, unfortunately I don't have either. Got a friend coming over in a bit though. The bell housing cover that covers the flex plate is what I was referring to
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Arlington TX
Thanks for your help guys, I never was able to succeed with the screw driver idea. Eventually got it by holding the center hub bolt with another wrench and loosening the 3 bolts that way.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 881
Likes: 24
From: Coquitlam BC
'Found that I had the same problem when I was removing mine and, while I HATE cutting or bending things, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I ended up mangling one side of the flywheel cover with tin snips (driver's side) but, when I finally got it off, was able to trim the piece so that it is notched on that side and it looks darn near perfect. If you didn't know that it wasn't supposed to be that way, you'd never know that mine's been modified. Best of all, I'm now able to remove it in a minute - and I don't have to do up the uppermost bolt that's tucked waaay up there on the driver's side. After getting the job done, I looked at the finished product and couldn't help thinking "Now why didn't the factory bother to do that?! It would've saved them some money and made a lot of mechanic's lives a whole lot easier!"
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
Wow, you guys made this hard. If you are taking a stock one on or off, they have small "weight" holes in them right. Take a decent sized punch that fits into the holes. Then use the cross member in front of the balancer to jam the balancer. Insert punch into hole from underneath front of car and when you try to wrench off the bolt, the punch should jam against the cross member and keep the balancer from turning. Simple, Fast, and Effective. Gotta flat rate that stuff, time is money. Besides I'm lazy I do not want to do more work than necessary. 
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Arlington TX
Both good ideas. Reading the manual I saw there was a special tool for putting in those holes but I didn't want to buy "another" special tool for this stupid thing. Didn't think about putting something in them that way.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 137
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Use the very powerful impact wrench found on every engine (i.e. the starter motor).
You get a standard 1/2'' ratchet with a cheater bar, 5/8" socket on the crankshaft bolt and place the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
Have an assistant momentarily pulse the starter while keeping the wrench/socket on the bolt head and woila the crankshaft bolt is broken loose. Make sure you ascertain/take in account the crankshaft direction of rotation and that the bolt is loosened counterclockwise when placing the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
I have been using this method for over 40 years and have used it removing my pulley on my LT1.
You get a standard 1/2'' ratchet with a cheater bar, 5/8" socket on the crankshaft bolt and place the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
Have an assistant momentarily pulse the starter while keeping the wrench/socket on the bolt head and woila the crankshaft bolt is broken loose. Make sure you ascertain/take in account the crankshaft direction of rotation and that the bolt is loosened counterclockwise when placing the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
I have been using this method for over 40 years and have used it removing my pulley on my LT1.
Last edited by 92WhiteVetteGuy; Nov 24, 2010 at 12:08 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Use the very powerful impact wrench found on every engine (i.e. the starter motor).
You get a standard 1/2'' ratchet with a cheater bar, 5/8" socket on the crankshaft bolt and place the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
Have an assistant momentarily pulse the starter while keeping the wrench/socket on the bolt head and woila the crankshaft bolt is broken loose. Make sure you ascertain/take in account the crankshaft direction of rotation and that the bolt is loosened counterclockwise when placing the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
I have been using this method for over 40 years and have used it removing my pulley on my LT1.
You get a standard 1/2'' ratchet with a cheater bar, 5/8" socket on the crankshaft bolt and place the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
Have an assistant momentarily pulse the starter while keeping the wrench/socket on the bolt head and woila the crankshaft bolt is broken loose. Make sure you ascertain/take in account the crankshaft direction of rotation and that the bolt is loosened counterclockwise when placing the ratchet handle/cheater bar against the frame.
I have been using this method for over 40 years and have used it removing my pulley on my LT1.
My 2nd choice is the screwdriver through the flex-plate. This works well too, if the screw-driver is positioned correctly. If anyone has a problem with this method it's NOT the method it's the user not correctly positioning the screw-driver that's the cause.
Jake