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Stripped Bolt in head

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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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From: Troy Al
Default Stripped Bolt in head

I stripped the upper power steering pump bolt. No room to get a drill in there to drill it out and re-tap it or use a helicoil. I can't locate a self tapping jobber that big. I don't want to remove the head. There is still some bite. Only when I snug it does it strip. I thought about a little lock-tight. Any ideas thoughts or suggestions? I hope the next car I buy has a better work to drive ratio. (Work on it 8 hours, get to drive it 30 min before it tears up again). Thanks!

Last edited by choopes; Nov 29, 2010 at 05:29 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Helicoil or retap is the only way I know..Have you thought about using a right angle drill, you should have enough room to get that in there.You can get these at Lowe's, Walmart, almost anywhere, either air or electric.....WW

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Last edited by WW7; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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Buy some locktite thread restore. Use that and install a stud instead of a bolt. It will work.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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For a one time shot...rent one
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Buy some locktite thread restore. Use that and install a stud instead of a bolt. It will work.
Dude , you always have good ideas...this would definitely be the first thing to try....WW

Last edited by WW7; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Dude , you always have good ideas...this would definitely be the first thing to try....WW
Thanks. You dont put 200,000 miles on a C3 without learning a thing or two.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Buy some locktite thread restore. Use that and install a stud instead of a bolt. It will work.
Good idea, or get some 2 part devcon thread restore. it has some mould release in the kit.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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From: Troy Al
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Buy some locktite thread restore. Use that and install a stud instead of a bolt. It will work.
Thanks Jack! If I can ask a dumb question. What's the difference between a stud and a bolt? I thought a stud was a bolt.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Why would you have to remove the heads to repair a water pump mounting bolt? Those are threaded into the block.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by choopes
Thanks Jack! If I can ask a dumb question. What's the difference between a stud and a bolt? I thought a stud was a bolt.

Stud has no head. Thread it in and put a nut on it.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Why would you have to remove the heads to repair a water pump mounting bolt? Those are threaded into the block.
I wish you could see my face when I saw the thread title
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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The stripped threads are in the power steering pump mount. Top hole. Sorry. It's been a long frustrating day. Where do you buy devcon thread restore? Will it take the heat?
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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That whole bracket comes off with 3 more bolts. Then it would be much easyier to put in a helicoil.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RichS
That whole bracket comes off with 3 more bolts. Then it would be much easyier to put in a helicoil.
That would be the way to go. Shouldn't take too long. If there is not enough room, use a right angle drill.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by choopes
I stripped the upper power steering pump bolt. No room to get a drill in there to drill it out and re-tap it or use a helicoil. I can't locate a self tapping jobber that big. I don't want to remove the head. There is still some bite. Only when I snug it does it strip. I thought about a little lock-tight. Any ideas thoughts or suggestions? I hope the next car I buy has a better work to drive ratio. (Work on it 8 hours, get to drive it 30 min before it tears up again). Thanks!
Chemically clean out the threads and try inserting a correct size/length nut/stud and some Loctite "Stud and Bearing Mount".
Not cheap! Last time I bought some was $20 about 35 years ago.
Will need to be heated to remove.
Good Luck,
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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Or you could use Jb weld to glue a stud in there. Just be sure to get it in straight. When I had my trans am I had the alternator bolt mount in head break away. I didn't want to take the head off and there wasn't enough metal left to fix it[one side of bolt hole was completely gone] . So I JB welded a threaded rod in the head. Trouble was I didn't get it glued in exactly straight. I was able to bend it where I wanted it with a crow bar, without braking the JB weld. I beleive JB weld can also be drilled and tapped if you wanted to fix it by cleaning & filling hole and then drill and tap hole to right size again. This wouldn't be as good as a helicoil but it would be a lot cheaper and easier. JB weld is good stuff I use it all the time now.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by turbotim23
Or you could use Jb weld to glue a stud in there. Just be sure to get it in straight. When I had my trans am I had the alternator bolt mount in head break away. I didn't want to take the head off and there wasn't enough metal left to fix it[one side of bolt hole was completely gone] . So I JB welded a threaded rod in the head. Trouble was I didn't get it glued in exactly straight. I was able to bend it where I wanted it with a crow bar, without braking the JB weld. I beleive JB weld can also be drilled and tapped if you wanted to fix it by cleaning & filling hole and then drill and tap hole to right size again. This wouldn't be as good as a helicoil but it would be a lot cheaper and easier. JB weld is good stuff I use it all the time now.
I agree JB Weld is good stuff and I've used it many times. The only problem with JBing a stud in the accessory holes of a head is that many machine shops use these holes to hold the head down when machining the heads; valvejobs or valveguides. Could make it somewhat difficult in the future.
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