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I'm going to pull the plenum on my ZR1 for some porting and would like to have it plumbed for a direct port fogger system. I'd like to use some "power plates" and just run 1 fogger nozzle in the primary runner (16 would be TOO MUCH!!!). looking for a VERY reliable 200 HP and no fuel distribution problems with the stock pistons (mahle cast, but very strong/!!!
I have only seen a few ZR1s with a direct port setup. Thinking of NX.
any idea of who would be the best tuner to work with and a ball park cost (+ or - a few hundred $$$) ???
I've built a direct port set-up for a ZR1 and am currently working on building a spray bar plate system for the LT5... But, it might be a couple of months before I get everything worked out. I'm building a motor for a Vettenet guy right now and need to finish it before I take on another project. If you'll check back with me in a couple of weeks I'll let you know where I stand.
-Jeb Burnett
I can wait. I'm thinking of making this a next winter project, pull the intake, inj housing, and heads and get the direct port nitrous done at the same time. I will stick to 200 HP so the pistons will live.
the mahle pistons are strong, but I think that might be a safe limit if there is NO detonation.
many have also suggested a dedicate fuel system. does your fogger use high pressure EFI pumps or the low pressure pumps.
I'm kinda with Cam, though... The Fogger plumbing interferes with the ability to easily access the center two spark plugs. I've got two ways of doing a plate, Bobby and I discussed it at a race last weekend... One is a long spraybar going from front to back and only spraying into the primaries... I expressed some worries about distribution problems to the very back orifices with a long bar (though the 5.0 Mustang plate systems do it). We then came up with two different bars, one coming to the front two runners, and a rear bar for the back two; plumbed together with a tee... I'll build both and see which one works the best. I would like the long bar to work best because that will certainly be the simplest way to build it. We'll see... As for a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous, I would certainly recommend it!! But I was planning on simply tapping into the fuel rail for the fuel solenoid. However, I think if you're going to want to spray more than 150 on it, I would look at a dedicated fuel side. I'm running one on my 90; I've got a custom 1 gallon aluminum fuel cell where the battery used to be and a Holley "Blue" carb pump and regulator. It feeds the fuel side of the N2O only and it does so at 10 psi which means you have more avenues for tuning because it runs carb pressures. I run VP C16 in the fuel cell and it's activated when you arm the system; that way you can run pump juice in the tank for the motor... I would certainly think that's the BEST WAY to do it, but not the only way. Plus relocating the battery helps weight distribution and transfer!!!
-Jeb Burnett
I like the NOS NOZsles, or coming up with an "annular discharge" type plate with holes mixing the fuel and and nitrous around the port.
a long spray bar will likely vary the fuel pressure a bit going down the line so I like the "t bar" approach. with that fancy LT5 plenum, I'd like to see an "under the plenum" approach with big jets and use FRED to vary the flow or make the feed pills accessible in a fuel distribution block.
is any of this stuff possible??? the NOS 'Carb' annular discharge plate got quite a bit of recognition. if we could use a similar design (maybe even cut one up!!!) I think it would work really well. the ring of nitrous and fuel makes a nice mixture without the fogger nozzles intruding on the airflow.
the plate system sounds really cool too, but keeping the fuel/nitrous distribution consistent between cyl might be an issue, not sure.
I sure like the fact that you are going to try several different approached.
are you going to use "flow measures" or test out on a ZR1???
sure would hate to wound an LT5 figuring out what works. not a casual "small block chebby" rebuild.