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I have a buddy that has a 1986 C4. He bought it a few years ago and it has spent much of it's life (so far) with him sitting in his garage. He's pretty busy with a new company that he's started so I have to cut him some slack....
He has a lingering problem.....
If the car sits.....the battery dies..... He has recently replaced the battery, drove it home, parked it......and a few days later......dead battery.
Is there a common problem or direction I can point him in? We both fund our hobbies with our full time jobs.....computer network engineering.
I have the same problem, one week does it for me. But the previous owner routed some wires from the battery/fuse area to a custom sound system and I'm guessing thats leeching power even while its off.
Sounds like an open circuit somewhere that is draining the battery. It could be something as simple as the light in the console lid staying on even if the lid appears to be closed. Another possibility is an underhood light that has a bad mercury switch. Both of these can easily be checked in a dark garage.
First, charge the battery. Then disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a DVM inline between the cable and negative terminal. Set the DVM to millamps (mA) and record the value. At the fuse panel, start by removing one fuse at a time to see if the reading drops.
When a fuse is pulled and the displayed value drops, that indicates there is something in that circuit drawing power. Sometimes it's a bad relay, or possibly a short to ground.
If your buddy doesn not have a FSM or Factory Service Manual, it should be the first thing to get if he intends to do any work on the car himself. This will be a 2-book set and one book is devoted to the electrical system and includes wiring schematics and electrical troubleshooting procedures for the entire car. They can be found on occasion in the C4 Parts For Sale section or on fleabay.
Sounds like an open circuit somewhere that is draining the battery. It could be something as simple as the light in the console lid staying on even if the lid appears to be closed. Another possibility is an underhood light that has a bad mercury switch. Both of these can easily be checked in a dark garage.
First, charge the battery. Then disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a DVM inline between the cable and negative terminal. Set the DVM to millamps (mA) and record the value. At the fuse panel, start by removing one fuse at a time to see if the reading drops.
When a fuse is pulled and the displayed value drops, that indicates there is something in that circuit drawing power. Sometimes it's a bad relay, or possibly a short to ground.
If your buddy doesn not have a FSM or Factory Service Manual, it should be the first thing to get if he intends to do any work on the car himself. This will be a 2-book set and one book is devoted to the electrical system and includes wiring schematics and electrical troubleshooting procedures for the entire car. They can be found on occasion in the C4 Parts For Sale section or on fleabay.
An open circuit is one that has no current path to ground, this is what is desirable for NOT discharging a battery!!!!!!!
First, lead acid batteries self discharge even disconnected. Never leave a battery sit for long periods (4+wks) because the plates collect lead sulfate and ruin the battery. Cars that sit for long periods should have a battery tender connected to them to keep the battery charged up. Batteries kept charged will have a normal life, ones that get totally discharged over and over have a short life.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal and measure the leakage current, GM says it should not exceed 50 milliamps. Pull the courtesy light fuse so the courtesy lights don't come on when you connect your ammeter. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I don't have any battery problems.
Also, at night check for the underhood lights, vanity mirror lights, door map lights, console light. Do you have a CB, GPS, radar detector, aftermarket alarm or radio or audio amplifier? Check em. Don't leave your ign key in the ign because it keeps the antitheft circuit on.
Are the keys staying in the ignition? Sounds odd, but once I saw a similar thread when I was having the same issue about drawing current perhaps from the security sys? No clue, anyways....problem was solved once I started leaving the keys in a smarter place.
I would also test the alt., if you have a bad diode it will drain battery just like that. You could test by looking for voltage drain at alt. wires as stated before or a lot of auto parts stores will test it for you free.
A malfunctioning digital dash will drain the battery too. A buddy of mine had a draining problem on his 85 and, rather than having the dash repaired, he just installed a cut off switch right at the battery.
The switch he used is like the ones you find mounted to the rear of many drag cars.
You could try the fuse pulling trick (with a volt meter attached to the battery) to see which fuse causes a voltage increase when it's pulled.
A malfunctioning digital dash will drain the battery too. A buddy of mine had a draining problem on his 85 and, rather than having the dash repaired, he just installed a cut off switch right at the battery.
The switch he used is like the ones you find mounted to the rear of many drag cars.
You could try the fuse pulling trick (with a volt meter attached to the battery) to see which fuse causes a voltage increase when it's pulled.
Jake
You find which circuit has excessive leakage current pulliing fuses when you connect a milliammeter, or ammeter in series with the battery!!! You learn nothing if you use a voltmeter because modern voltmeters are so high impedance that they will indicate the battery voltage all the time even if you pull a fuse on a circuit with high leakage current!
DON'T USE A VOLTMETER.
i had a similar problem in my 85, it was the interior courtesy light timer. i couldnt recognize it right away because the po had removed all of the interior light bulbs, but when i replaced them i noticed they never turned off. timer was bad and was draining battery. wilcox is now selling a new timer board, cheapest and best solution you can find for this problem. hope that helps. good luck!
You find which circuit has excessive leakage current pulliing fuses when you connect a milliammeter, or ammeter in series with the battery!!! You learn nothing if you use a voltmeter because modern voltmeters are so high impedance that they will indicate the battery voltage all the time even if you pull a fuse on a circuit with high leakage current! DON'T USE A VOLTMETER.
You seem to be very emphatic in your advice, with all the exclamation points and ALL CAPS. As if there's absolutely no chance using a volt meter would work. In my opinion, the added emphasis is unnecessary and misplaced.
Remind yourself, this is not a competition but, instead, is our attempts to help a fellow member.
All of what you wrote would be fine except for the fact that it's how Alfred found it was his dash pulling down his battery, by using a volt meter.
Whatever works for Kirt is my goal. Not get involved in a "My advice is better than your advice" waste of time exercise.
i put in a battery disconnect switch on mine after going through a relatively fresh battery. now i pop the hood and disconnect the battery after every "session".
since the Bose radio is long-since dead (inoperative), I don't have to worry bout losing the radio stations, or time-of-day.
Our Vettes are notorious for this. Simple solution. Get a Battery Tender (sold at most auto parts store) and slice it into a cigarette adapter. You plug it into the lighter socket when it is parked and it is super easy to connect and disconnect. Plus your battery will last much, muck longer.
You seem to be very emphatic in your advice, with all the exclamation points and ALL CAPS. As if there's absolutely no chance using a volt meter would work. In my opinion, the added emphasis is unnecessary and misplaced.
Remind yourself, this is not a competition but, instead, is our attempts to help a fellow member.
All of what you wrote would be fine except for the fact that it's how Alfred found it was his dash pulling down his battery, by using a volt meter.
Whatever works for Kirt is my goal. Not get involved in a "My advice is better than your advice" waste of time exercise.
Jake
Sorry you don't like my advice. Leakage current is best found with a meter that measures current, not voltage. Stick your tongue on the wires I really don't give an excrement. Don't let the fact that I am an electronic engineer giving advice about electrical circuits influence you.