I have a window ribbon on the driver side that I need to replace as it gets halfway up and then just starts chattering and wont go any further. I need to do the same to the passenger side, but it is all the way up, so I will do it later. What is the best way to do this as it looks pretty complicated. Is there a way to do it without taking everything out?

 

I just replace mine two months ago. You must take everything apart. The regulator needs to be removed from the door. You will also need to remove a couple rivets to get the new one on. I used a 12 volt battery charger to power the motor to move the new ribbon down the track. Be careful the new ribbons will brake. Don't ask how I know.

Getting the window aligned is the real job.

 

Is there a better way than others to remove everything? Just mark where everything goes?

 

I replaced mine this summer. To help align the window, I traced the washer positions with a Sharpie marker before removing the window. It was easy to reposition the window aligning with the marker circles.

Hope this helps

 

I marked mine as well. it was still a heck of of job getting the window adjusted.

 

make sure you spray everything with white lithium spray. I make it a habit to lube up the regulator ribbon and rod everytime I have the door panel apart.

 

I did it the easy way, bought regulator, and had glass company do it has side job. Please remember you need special tools to remove the old regulator.

 

I replaced the ribbon on my 85 a couple months ago. I used no special tools and didn't have to drill out any rivets. I got the ribbon from Autozone and just measured the new one against the old one to get the right length. It was time consuming but not very complicated. The other option is to go with a later regulator form a salvage yard that is a scissor style rather than a ribbon.

 

so did you have to take everything out of the door, or did you just replace the ribbon.

Would the scissor style regulators be easier to replace?

 

you have to remove the door panel, disconnect the hatch switch, wiper switch, and door lock switch.
You have to pop off the manual door lock slide and then remove the plastic sheeting that acts as rain and wash water control.
But first, go to a cadillac dealer, and get the little bathtub style door panel anchor nuts made out of plastic. (I haven't found a chevy dealer in my area that carries them) get at least 10.
NOW is a great time to look at the inner window seal at the top of your door panel. if it is starting to go bad, DO IT NOW.....order a left and right, and install the left one now. Buy a "pop" rivet gun with several sizes of rivets. you will need this tool when replacing the upper door panel window wiper. so if you have the tool and various sizes of rivets, good for you.

Make a door link rod installation tool by using a coat hanger. cut the bottom wire out of a metal coat hanger, and bend one end into a small "J" <------------little more than this, with duckbill pliers. This tool will help you to pull the door lock rod into it's slot when installing the door panel.
Remove the nuts holding the window to the track, and tape the window at the bottom edge to the door so it won't move (at an angle) Then remove the track.

Mark the nuts, there is a "foot" bolt on the bottom of the door.
There are 2 rivets at the top of the track that have to come off.
You have to drill those. Replace them with small screws and nuts, preferable is lock nuts with screws of a -6 size where 6=6/64ths of an inch......3/32nds dia. screws about 3/4" long.
Cut off the excess with a hacksaw if need be. screws come in -4, -6, -8, -10, 1/4" and so on.
When you get the old track pieces off the rail, slide the new ribbon on, and then see if you can measure the old one's total length, and add an inch to be safe.
Sometimes pieces may fall off, and are lurking in the bottom of the door.
THen put the screws in temporarily, and give it a run without the window attached either with reconnecting the connector, or with carefully placed leads on a battery. If the ribbon is too long, you will know it immediately, and it it is acceptable, again you will be the first to know. I everything is good, tighten the two screws.
Reassemble everything slowly as you can pinch wires, get pieces jammed and connectors break. after attaching the window to the track, try it at least 5 times, looking for misalignment, loose parts and loose fasteners.
If the door light connector comes apart, you just have to glue it back together. I used JB weld, and it takes a 18 hour cure, but sticks forever.
Plan on 2 hours if you are good with your hands and have a penchant for relationships (part interface) otherwise, it is a solid 4 hours.
While you are there, it might be a good thing to add some insulation to the door. If you do, make sure none of it is thicker than 3/32 of an inch thick or the door panel won't fit right..... You can even use some asphalt squares (12X12). Then add every thing you have left over to the "i'll see where that goes the next time I have the door panel apart" pile. Hopefully you won't have anything left over.

 

For all that work, you should consider replacing the regulator with the upgrade scissors type. The replacement just drops in without drilling or fussing.

Just watching the speed at which the other window now travels at is worth the price.

And if you want I'll sell you my old style regulator for the cost of shipping.

 

I have a chance to buy two of the newer style regulators for $110 for the pair. Of course they are used, but work. I am thinking of goign that way.

 

The window can be adjusted??? Here is my situation. I had my 84 repainted so I put all new seals on it too. On both doors, about 2/3 of the way up, on the front of the window, it just ismt making a good seal...when I wash the car, water gets in at this location. Its like the seal should stick out a bit further. After reading this thread, maybe an adjustment will do the trick????

 

WHat I did was to leave the glass fasteners snugged so the glass could move yet hold its position.

Then with the door closed and the window regulator in the full up position, the glass was moved until a complete seal was achieved.

The window was then tightened from inside.

I opened the door, cycled the window full down then full up and once again closed the door. The seal was checked with a dollar bill.

Finished mine in one try!

Total time start to finish 2.5 hours & 4 beers. (There was two of us)

 

JRC, thanks for "Finally" talking about the scissors upgrade.....I find it interesting as folks come and go and the tech tips seem to go with some folks.....

OP, there is just no good reason to fix the ribbon when the scissors style regulator is cheap and "easy" to install.

Yes, buy those $110 OEM regulators and get busy....an hour later you will be very very glad you did.

I only did one side (the Driver side) and I wish the other side would break....it's amazing how aggravating that old ribbon style can be......it is so so slow compared.

At one time they had two regulators and window seals in a kit for $250.....that is the hot ticket.

Again, shout out to JRC for keeping the 'good' info readily available.

 

Go ahead and upgrade, you will be very happy. Lots faster and a lot more sure function.

 

BTW I paid 50 bucks and shipping for my regulator (motor included) off ebay.

The ONLY mod was to reverse the motor wires on the connector!

It is so nice to have that passenger run up and down quickly.



Here's the link to the post

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...regulator.html




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