Head gasket replacement on 89 vert
#1
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Head gasket replacement on 89 vert
I am going to tackle this myself. Any special tools I need to replace my head gaskets? I do know I need a torque wrench but anything else. Also any advice on what I need as trying to do this in one day as this is my daily driver, thanks.
#3
Burning Brakes
your also going to need a distributor hold down wrench. You can use a combo of 3 U-joints, but the wrench makes life much easier.
I also recommend a good 3/8" flex head ratchet, large coolant drain pan, and plastic bins to label the bolts when you remove them. Oh and masking tape and a marker to label connectors.
And since you got to pull them anyway, you should go ahead and replace the plugs, plug wires, radiator hoses etc. And don't forget to change the oil when your done.
I also recommend a good 3/8" flex head ratchet, large coolant drain pan, and plastic bins to label the bolts when you remove them. Oh and masking tape and a marker to label connectors.
And since you got to pull them anyway, you should go ahead and replace the plugs, plug wires, radiator hoses etc. And don't forget to change the oil when your done.
#4
Drifting
You'll also need a serpentine belt removal tool, if you don't already have one. They aren't expensive, and well-worth the investment.
Also, make sure you have a good tap and die set too. I was in your shoes a few years ago, and replaced the head gaskets are on '89 coupe myself as well. I used a tap to clean-out the head bolt threads when I had the cylinder heads off. You can use a thread-chaser instead of a tap (if you aren't careful using a tap you can very easily start to cut new threads).
Of course, a GM Factory Service Manual (FSM) is a good idea too.
I wouldn't advise doing this in one day, though. I took my time when I did this job. I took my cylinder heads to a machine shop to have them checked; turned out one was cracked. I bought replacement 113 cylinder heads (stock) that came off another '89 and had them cleaned/rebuilt before reassembling everything. I figured I'd do the job once and do it right rather than have to go back in a couple of years to have to do it again.
But if you are going to do this in one day, I would strongly suggest using Great Stuff sealant for the intake manifold. It will seal-up fast.
Oh, and get yourself a GOOD set of head gaskets. I went with a set of Felpro 1010's on the advice of forum members here, and I haven't had a problem. Whatever you do, don't go with Felpro 7733 gaskets!!! They are what's called for as replacement gaskets in Felpro's database but they are WRONG! They will work fine for iron block/iron head combinations, but not for iron block/aluminum head combos like ours. Just a word of warning.
Good luck.
Also, make sure you have a good tap and die set too. I was in your shoes a few years ago, and replaced the head gaskets are on '89 coupe myself as well. I used a tap to clean-out the head bolt threads when I had the cylinder heads off. You can use a thread-chaser instead of a tap (if you aren't careful using a tap you can very easily start to cut new threads).
Of course, a GM Factory Service Manual (FSM) is a good idea too.
I wouldn't advise doing this in one day, though. I took my time when I did this job. I took my cylinder heads to a machine shop to have them checked; turned out one was cracked. I bought replacement 113 cylinder heads (stock) that came off another '89 and had them cleaned/rebuilt before reassembling everything. I figured I'd do the job once and do it right rather than have to go back in a couple of years to have to do it again.
But if you are going to do this in one day, I would strongly suggest using Great Stuff sealant for the intake manifold. It will seal-up fast.
Oh, and get yourself a GOOD set of head gaskets. I went with a set of Felpro 1010's on the advice of forum members here, and I haven't had a problem. Whatever you do, don't go with Felpro 7733 gaskets!!! They are what's called for as replacement gaskets in Felpro's database but they are WRONG! They will work fine for iron block/iron head combinations, but not for iron block/aluminum head combos like ours. Just a word of warning.
Good luck.
Last edited by TheCorvetteKid; 12-20-2010 at 02:12 PM.
#5
Le Mans Master
I agree with Corvette Kid, I wouldn't do this job without taking the heads to a machine shop to see if they need any work.. At the least they may need to be decked.. Without doing this you may have to do the job again real soon..Why take a chance, the head gasket went bad for some reason......WW
Last edited by WW7; 12-20-2010 at 02:14 PM.
#6
Drifting
Oh, and keeping with lushdrunk's thinking, it would also be a really good idea to consider using new cylinder head bolts too. You don't need to go crazy with high-end ARP head bolts or head studs either. A set of stock GM cylinder head bolts are more than fine, and are relatively inexpensive. Good insurance.
And while you're at it, consider swapping out the stock rocker arms for a set of 1.6 roller-tip rocker arms. I went with a set of 1.6 Magnum Roller Rockers (#1418-16) from Comp Cams. Relatively inexpensive and a nice little upgrade. Look at it like a little reward for doing all this work yourself.
And while you're at it, consider swapping out the stock rocker arms for a set of 1.6 roller-tip rocker arms. I went with a set of 1.6 Magnum Roller Rockers (#1418-16) from Comp Cams. Relatively inexpensive and a nice little upgrade. Look at it like a little reward for doing all this work yourself.
#7
Instructor
Take a bunch of digital pics during the takedown, very helpful when putting it back together.
I needed to use o/a to heat up the exhaust manifold bolts from below to get them off without breaking a stud.
Good time to replace the waterpump and egr while you have it apart.
I needed to use o/a to heat up the exhaust manifold bolts from below to get them off without breaking a stud.
Good time to replace the waterpump and egr while you have it apart.
#8
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