C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Long tube header install - before / with / or after engine install?

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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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Default Long tube header install - before / with / or after engine install?

I'm getting ready to stab the engine back into the car after it's rebuild and have purchased long tube headers (Hedmann's) to go along with the performance upgrades I made and was wondering what the easiest way to do it was from those expierenced? I searched and found info on doing it with the engine in the car but since my engine is out I thought there may be a time/headache savings to be had!

I thought of the various ways of doing things and wanted to know what's best:

(1) put the headers in the engine compartment and "tie" them off to the side while I swing the engine in and bolt it down then attach the headers once the engine mounts are secured

(2) Bolt headers to engine and place engine in bay all at once. However in looking I don't think I can swing the engine in there with the headers attached so I don't believe that's the way but I could be wrong

(3) bolt the engine in and then install the headers as you would do if just changing the manifolds out.

OR is there some combo like installing the passenger side on the engine and doing the driver's side later??

Thanks for any hints!
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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While tearing my engine out, I took the headers off first then pulled the block. They should be able to slide in once the engine is put in place. Its not amazingly simple to get it in and out but they will fit. Mine came out thru the bottom.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Put the block in and then put the headers and starter in at the same time. The reason I say at the same time is because sometimes if you put the headers on first and tighten them down then the starter is a beotch to get on.The best way to do the passenger side is to put the header up where it belongs and then slide the starter in while the header can still be moved around, then start the bolts for the starter and tighten it down before tightening the header bolts... If you put the headers on the block first you risk damaging them while installing the engine plus they would make dropping the engine in alot harder. Just make sure to do the headers before you start bolting other parts on the motor, the headers go on alot easier if you do them right after the block goes in..Also don't install the oil filter until after the headers are in, it will get in the way..My Vette is a 89 also and both headers go in easier from the bottom..I replaced my engine about 7 months ago so its still fresh in my mind.....WW

Last edited by WW7; Dec 20, 2010 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by derekguzz
Mine came out thru the bottom.
Same here
Need to have front of car high enough to angle headers up into engine bay because you have to get the head flange over the engine mounts and forward before you can level headers off
Tying them out of the way in the engine bay before installing engine works as well, just something else for engine to snag on as you swing it into place though
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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In this thread I installed some and kinda made a "how to"

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...te-videos.html
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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Installed....



Also note that the engine is fully dressed. No need to spend a bunch of time wrestling with parts in the engine bay. Waaaaaaaaaaay easier with the engine on the stand.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
Installed....

Also note that the engine is fully dressed. No need to spend a bunch of time wrestling with parts in the engine bay. Waaaaaaaaaaay easier with the engine on the stand.
I'm guessing you're running an auto trans (flexplate)? I've got a 6-speed and the clutch/bellhousing is going to be attached to it so I can't drop it straight down - it's got to go down then back into the trans splines....
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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I do #3.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bwiencek
I'm guessing you're running an auto trans (flexplate)? I've got a 6-speed and the clutch/bellhousing is going to be attached to it so I can't drop it straight down - it's got to go down then back into the trans splines....
6 speed

Install the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/bellhousing after the engine is in place and then install the the transmission. If you left the transmission in place, then use a leveler to tilt the engine.

Frankly, for the amount of time you're going to spend trying to get the engine aligned with the transmission, it would be far quicker to drop the transmission. Since the engine is already out, you should be able to have the transmission on the floor in 15-20 minutes....4 c-beam bolts, 4 bolts that secure the driveshaft to the differential, the armrest, the center console plate, the rubber shift boot under the console, and the shift ****. Transmission on the floor.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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I suspect it'd make some difference WHICH headers you were installing. I'm sure it would have been difficult-to-impossible had I tried to pre-mount my headers before installation.

Don't think I didn't consider it either!

The only bolt that's kindofa beeoch is the PS rear bolt. So, if you were to premount just one header, do the passenger side. The DS rear bolt is easily accessible by going under the brake booster and thru the side vent. (Obviously, some extensions are required!)
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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It will be a lot easier to handle and putting the headers in is easy.
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