Four questions.
1. Anyone make a scatter sheild for these? Summit is a useless catalog, as was PAW and LPE and the others... Need one to be group III legal. Dont want a blanket due to daily driving and heat.

2. Is there any way to disable the REVERSE lockout for the key? I want to try and install a remote start on the car at some point, if I remember right the clutch part is easy to bypass, its the reverse thing I dont know about.

3. Where does the OD unit say the model number? I havent looked at mine yet for it, but when I can get to it I wanna know where to look (to tell .67 or .60 ratio)

4. Wiring, this has a few different questions.
a. I have 3 connectors on the side of the 4 speed (I beleive its an 84 Transmission), I know one is for the reverse lights, what are the other two for?
b. The connector to the OD unit that turns it on/off. How does that work? As in, when does it have voltage, when does it not?
My plan on the transmission is to wire the OD to a hardswitch which has on/off, so the OD is either on or off. I never liked using it in town, only at higher speeds, which arent seen often. I am also planning on going with a Haltech computer. So I want the transmission to be completely off the computer, I want full control!

THANKS In advance, and sorry for ANOTHER 4+3 post :)
Matt

 

I know you already have answers to at least two of these questions ('cause I printed them out!), but I want to see what others have to say, so...

Kick it to the top! :lol:

 

Yes. If you pull up the center console you will see the rod that is actuated when putting the car into reverse to unlock the key cylinder.

Easiest way to know if you have the 0.68 or 0.60 ratio (if it is original to your car) is if you have Z51 . Do you? If so you have 0.68, if you do not then you have 0.60. Otherwise I am not sure. There are some numbers stamped I think onto the right side of the case, but I do not know if they will tell you the ratio. Also on the O/D oil pan one of the bolts on the passenger side holds a small metal place up against the pan. There are #s on that also.

I'm in the middle of pulling mine right now, one the tranny you have.

1. 1st Gear Switch (Black Plug)
2. Reverse Lights (Gray Plug)
3. Speed Senser (On the tailshaft, round plug)
4. O/D Solenoid Power (Black Plug I think)

The more 4+3 posts the better!! When I first joined in 3/00 there was next to nobody posting anything about these units. In the past 6 months or so there have been more and more, and I've learned a lot! :)

 

http://www.vetteracer.com/pics/Vette...er%202%201.jpg

I may not have worded it right.
There are three on the ST10 itself. As seen in the picture above (its a bigger pic on a slower server, please be pantient). As well as the OD connectors.

On the reverse lockout thing. Do I remove the rod? Cut it, what? I found a good article in one of the other links (http://corvetteobsession.homestead.c..._dougnash.html ). It mentions it, but doesnt say what it does, and it appears from the website and phonenumber that corvetteclinic is bye bye.

It also mentions the ratios I found out. So hopefully since it appears the tranny might be an 84, I have the .60 ratio for higher topspeed/economy :), the only time I will use it. The transmission is not the original, its supposed ot be a rebuilt/modified transmission, I got it from Tommy Morrison some time ago, I swapped the valve body out with the stock one out of my 87 to eliminate the TV cable though.

As a last set of notes/questions. Feel free to browse around my site, I have more tranny pics and such. I do have the other two plugs you mention.
What do the plugs on the ST10 do? Does the Reverse one control the lights? Or is it tied into the computer somehow? What do 1/2 3/4 connectors do? Where can I get new ones at?

Thanks Scorp.
And Rich B. If you know the answer to #1 PLEASE tell me ASAP :D:D Can email if you want ;).
Matt

 

On the reverse lockout thing. Do I remove the rod? Cut it, what? I found a good article in one of the other links

Mine has been disconnected at the shifter ever since I bought the car.It is intact and still connected at the key end . No problems

 

That rod should actually be the end of a cable that goes into the back of the steering column near the steering wheel. You can remove the whole cable, but then the keylock will *always* be activated (there's a plunger that the cable pushes in).

You need to make up a rod about 5" long; I made mine from 1/8" welding rod, in a "Z" shape, with a loop on each end. The small loop (about 5/16") goes in the plunger hole and holds it in; the other end/loop (about 1/2") goes under one of the steering column mounting bolts. The "Z" is for minor adjustment.

You need to take the console apart to get to the shifter end of the cable. You need to take the plastic cover off the underside of the dash to get to the bottom of the steering column.

The "On-Demand" overdrive is easily done by jumpering the A7 and C8 terminals of the ECM harness. Just push a paperclip into the harness to release the pins, pull the leads out, and connect them together. You'll also need a 61F752 switch from http://www.newark.com to make it an "On/Off" conversion. This cuts the ECM out of the overdrive circuit and makes it command-only; no temp input, no speed input, no gear input. just On/Off.

Don't know offhand about the bellhousing. Forgot what else you asked... :crazy:

 

Oops; I do seem to have a link to a bellhousing...

Lakewood makes a bunch; the #15020 looks right, but I'd call/email to be sure...
http://www.martelbros.com/cgi-bin/st...d/lakewood.htm

...Nothing like short URLs, huh?... :D

 

...And while looking at flywheels at McLeod, I noticed they have explosion-proof bellhousings, too...
http://www.mcleodind.com/newproducts.asp