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Re: 2149 / 2151 Super Comp Headers, whats the difference? (notbob)
The 2151's have no EGR or O2 bungs. The 2149 has the EGR tubing on top and one O2 sensor. They usually sell the 2149 coated.
I run the 2151's that I have had O2 bungs welded on and I had them coated locally. You can also have an EGR tube welded to the top for emissions if you were inclined to do so.
$300 is about right for uncoated 2151's.
Sorry, I can't answer you head compatibility questions.
So if I used the 2151's, when I get the rest of the exhaust done I'd just have to make sure they place an O2 sensor in the Y-Pipe after the manifolds?
I know nothing about exhausts and this is the last component were doing in the engine swap which has got to get finished soon as I got in an accident in one of my other cars last night and I don't like having just 1 driveable car, heh the other one is still somewhat driveable but has to get into the shop to get fixed asap.
Have the O2 bung welded into the left hand (driver side) header's collector pipe. You'll also need to use a 3-wire (heated) O2 sensor with headers as they tend to not generate enough heat to get the OEM 1-wire O2 hot enough to work properly in feedback (closed loop) operation.
-Jeb Burnett
Thanks, that shouldn't be too rough, going to redo the entire exhaust, it was in rough shape and since I needed new headers might as well go all the way at this point, my wallet is crying after all the work that keeps going into all of this :p:
Should I get them coated? What exactly does that do?
Both the 2149's and the 2151's will work on the AFR heads for the L98. When they are talking about not fitting angle plug heads they are talking about the old style"traditional" angle plug heads. The factory L98 heads are an angle plug design but not the ones they are talking about.
Have the O2 bung welded into the left hand (driver side) header's collector pipe.
I did this last Friday.
You'll also need to use a 3-wire (heated) O2 sensor with headers as they tend to not generate enough heat to get the OEM 1-wire O2 hot enough to work properly in feedback (closed loop) operation.
-Jeb Burnett
can you explain this a little more to me? This I was not aware of. Will this 3 wire sensor still connect to the original lead plug? Other wiring involved? :confused:
I know lots of guys who run headers and only a few have OEM heated o2 sensors. Everybody else has the good ole one wire deals and they work just fine. In my case the headers are coated inside and out, maybe that keeps enough heat on the sensor and out of the engine compartment.
Several of my friends have uncoated headers and have never had trouble.
It's very easy to install a heated O2 sensor. Just connect on black wire to a 12volt source that is hot only when the car is on, the other black wire to a ground, and the wire (I think orange) to the factory wireing. My heated o2 only cost me $35 (AC delco brand) It pays to find out what other type of O2 works with our cars. I can't remeber what car it is ment for but I think it is for a chevy pick-up that uses about the same engine that ours does. My local parts store guy figured it out for me.
Re: 2149 / 2151 Super Comp Headers, whats the difference? (notbob)
Just to make sure we are clear, AFR makes 3 styles of heads. Standard Angled, L98 Angled, and Straight. Standard Angled will not work. Straight will work but has clearance probs with the #2 and #5 plug boots. I am using them and I had to dent them in to make them clear, and I didn't dent quite enough and keep frying my plug boots. :cuss L98 angled are supposed to work fine.
So: If your heads are "Standard Angled", you may have problems.
Also, the coating helps with heat. My coated headers are hotter than a MF if you touch them, but I have sensor wires that that are about 1/2" away that are not melting. If I didn't have the coating, I bet I would be cooking those wires.