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I pulled the console trim plate out of my '96 to do some touch-up painting on it and also because the shifter boot was flopping around. I know now why the boot was loose since none of the four points where the boot connects to the trim plate were still connected.
It looks like the plastic stubs just broke off inside all four of the metal clasps attached with the screws. Are the metal clasps just supposed to hold the boot in place by gripping the plastic posts?
Since a new console trim plate is $150 I don't want to replace it if I can avoid it. Perhaps glueing them might hold, at least for a while.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
PS: is the paint on the console just a regular semi-gloss paint?
JB-Weld the plastic posts back into place on the underside of the console. For the amount of torque that those little posts need to withstand, it should hold up fine.
I just installed a new boot a few days ago. I used 3M weatherstripping glue but I figure any strong glue would hold, the glue will definately suffice, you don't need the screws, make sure you glue all 4 sides.
Oh and make sure you install the boot on the metal bracket the correct way!! I did mine wrong but luckily I was able to pull the boot off (with a lot of force) and do it the correct way. I guess weatherstripping glue helped me in this sense, epoxy would force me to rip it out lol.
I had to do this.Three fasteners were totally crushed with no way to fix. The third one was passable at least for a while. I will do the last one when it fails and it will make it all even.
I know this is not the best solution but it works for me.
From: Gaithersburg MD A member since 2007 but then the computer crashed and then the car crash loss of memory X 2
Originally Posted by VetteMed
JB-Weld the plastic posts back into place on the underside of the console. For the amount of torque that those little posts need to withstand, it should hold up fine.
JB Quik worked on my front speaker enclosures and 2 posts on the shifter boot after the "Big Footed" Previous owner trashed both of them.
Hey Andrew Happy New Year to all down the in the Sunshine, but not heat, State.
I have a 4x4 Case Backhoe/Loader (old) the previous owner allowed the main cup barring on the front wheel hub at the king pin to go bad and drove it until the round 2 inch barring receiver machined into the bottom of the axel was shaped like an egg. We got a new two piece cone-shaped barring and JB Welded the female piece of the barring into the oval hole that was left (took two packages to fill the space). This barring holds the entire weight of the front of the loader (and a bucket full of dirt) and has side pressure when you turn the wheel or go over un-even ground.
Holds.
That JB Weld is as strong as the iron of the axel. I swear by it.
I had to do this.Three fasteners were totally crushed with no way to fix. The third one was passable at least for a while. I will do the last one when it fails and it will make it all even.
I know this is not the best solution but it works for me.
that looks great! i need to do the same on mine. is that a custom boot?