So I took my 89 vette to my local chevy dealer today to have them put new fuel injectors in with all the gaskets and rings needed.. Jon from FIC hooked me up with everything needed for the job, parts wise... So I talked with the tech. and he said that he probably wouldnt have to take it "all"apart to get to them and the gaskets probably were not needed... Does that sound right??? (Yes I asked for a corvette certified tech),,, Can the swap out be done with taking "little" off? thanks,, rj

 

I would take a look in the FSM if you have one and do it the way they say. GM did not dream this stuff up. While they are in there they should be changing the 21 year old o-rings in the fuel rail before they leak rather than after you put out the eventual fire. If you start mustling the fuel rail around and break the seal on the old ones and they can end up leaking. The biggest clue they are leaking is the flames coming out from the front of the hood and youpeeing your pants looking for a place to park and get out. Don't bother calling the fire dept as the hood cables will be melted anyway and all they can do is watch it burn to the ground with you. The shortcut is not to save you money it is a flat rate job it is to save the tech time so he makes more per hour.

If you have a sort of heated garage and not a daily driver this is actually one of those low pressure type jobs to get you started wrenching. Everything is on the top and out in the open and requires very few tools and all hand tools that are cheap to buy and start a modest tool collection. There is a really great satisfaction wrenching your own hot rod and then driving it running better because you made it run better. In the end between buying a used FSM and a few tools you might not save that much money up front but might help you gain a bit of confidance if not currently wrenching your own car. The FSM lays it out pretty simple even though you may have to flip around to different sections to finish but it boils down to a lot of simple steps.

But if money is no object and time is tight the dealer is a smart option too as long as they are willing to do it the FSM way of doing it right.
Dave

 

20+ yo fuel system seals and shortcuts make for a potential molotov cocktail.

 

I have my plenum off right now. I replaced the fuel injectors this fall but the gasket kit did not come with O rings for the fuel rails. Sounds like a good thing for me to do.
Where do you find these things as I have not seen them in the Corvette catalogs I have looked at?

 

All the O-rings for the injectors and for the fuel rails can be replaced by just removing the plenum, without removing the runners. This is the same method I used when replacing my own. The gaskets on the runners are probably ok since all they do is seal air, and not any liquids..Its up to you if you want to replace the runner gaskets but this will probably double the price for labor...WW

 

got my whole kit from www.fuelinjectorconnection.com,,, talk with John or order online,, rj

 

You might also try "tpi_parts" on ebay.

HNY

 

hi redjetty, look at the top of Tech-performance, there is a sticky on replacing fuel injectors by FIC, there is a video on there of the job being done.

 

I agree, this is the same method I used and didn't have any problems or leaks. If you do a search here there is a post that describes the method. The rails & injectors come off together. It isn't really that bad of a job. I also replaced the EGR valve & thermostat while I had the other stuff off that is usually in the way.

 

i would replace every fuel injector o-ring
tpi gaskets,if its not a compulsive grey rtv user will come fine
i have a super ram and i must use rtv to avoid leaks,if yours come fine
just reuse them !

 

I got the o-rings for my fuel rails at Advance Auto..WW

 

Got mine for my 95 LT1 there

 

if you want to refresh your fuel system even more , you can put new orings to all your fuel system , Jon at FIC has them its BWD #274773 and they work great.

Don't forget to put new rings on your fuel lines as well its 011 and 010 but on your case i believe its two 011's because in 88 the fuel rail supply line changed if i recall correctly.

 

I bet the tech was talking about the plenum gaskets, I am sure he was planning on putting the orings. There IS a shortcut with the right snap on tools to take the fuel rail apart and not pull everything, but I tried it and it wasnt work the hassle. He kinda sounds like he knew what he was talking about.

 

I think what is most overlooked is the orings on the fuel lines running to the fuel rail

 

No You can not change out the fuel injectors in your 89 Vette without pulling the upper TPI Plenum and Runners off.

My hunch is that GM tech/ they have not ever changed out fuel injectors in a TPI engine lately.

I would do the job yourself.

That way you know the job is done correctly.

Follow the FSM.

Any degraded fuel system O-rings must be changed.

Or a gasoline fire will result.

There is no way you will get the fire out in time if a gasoline fire does result, Unless you have a Halon fire extinguisher on hand.

Few people do have them.

Your vette will burn down to the ground before your eyes. And burn it will.

I always hated the term "TECH".

A MECHANIC is not a Tech.

Crap the dealers came up with.

Sucks and degrading.

A quick lube oil change guy is a Tech.

A Mechanic is a Craftsman that cares about every little operation he does to insure the repair job is done properly.

And a lasting repair job that satisfies his or her own High Standards and Criteria.

I am an ex GM Master Mechanic.

The dealers and Techs there only care about making flat rate and beating it these days.

More $ in their pockets.

Their only concerns these days.

Believe me...................... I know.

Another reason why GM went bankrupt. People got pissed off.

Bought other offshore car and truck brands instead.

BR

 

I replaced all the injectors. I replaced all the gaskets and o rings for the injectors and the fuel rails. I also rebuilt the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. Everything cost about $300.00. I'm no mechanic but I got good advice from forum members.

It's been running great for about 3 years. If you do the work yourself be very careful, take your time and watch closely for fuel leaks.

 

You can change the injectors without taking BOTH runners off but takin apart the fuel rail. yes plenum and one rail must come off

 

I already sent the OP the instructions for doing the injectors and fuel rails with just removing the plenum( not the runners)..He sent me a PM requesting the instructions. This is the way alot of the guys on here do the job. About half the work involved and you do change out all the fuel injector and fuel rail 0-rings..Below are the instructions by ( Sam Lam) incase anyone else needs them.. ..WW


Removal of Injectors on 89 Corvette TPI without removal of Runners

I replaced the Multec injectors in my 89 - 350 TPI and used the GM Helms manual as a guide. The manual recommends you remove both runners to replace the fuel injectors. I followed the Helm manual procedure on my first injector removal and found it difficult to remove the lower Torx runner bolts. These bolts are not easily removed because the valve covers do not allow "straight access" to the pesky Torx bolts. Therefore, you must remove the valve covers.....and this is not easy! During my second injector removal project, I wanted to see if I could remove the injectors the “an easier way” (without runner removal) and the steps below were a result of what I found to work for me.

Just for the "fun of it" make sure your new injectors (if you are replacing them) all fit the electrical connectors on your engine...sounds like an assumption...one of my injectors did not fit. Had to do a little filing on the injector plug and a lot of cussing!

There are some tools you will need for this. You will need a Torx driver to remove the upper plenum bolts. There will be some metric wrenches, a soft face hammer and screwdrivers. However, there are some “special” items:
1. A set of ¼ inch hex Torx bits as these are about one inch in length
2. ¼ inch ratchet with a ¼ inch socket. You will need to place the Torx bit into the ¼ inch socket in order to remove the small Torx bolts that hold the fuel injector rails together.
3. ¼ inch combination wrench. You will need to place the ¼ inch Torx bit into the closed end of the ¼ inch combination wrench to remove the fuel rail Torx bolts in close quarters. Try this simple process before you start the injector removal!!!

Here is what I did to install new injectors:

1. Remove one battery connection and relieve the pressure in the fuel system by pressing the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Note you are releasing gasoline that can cause odor and fire!!!
2. Remove the wire cables to the butterfly valve on the throttle body, remove the cables from the bracket on the side of the plenum and lay aside the cables.
3. While on that side, remove the vacuum line on the rear and bottom of the plenum. Use a flare wrench so that you do not "booger up" the 5/8 nut.
4. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (driver side) and note what length bolt goes where.
5. Go to the other side of the engine and disconnect the IAC, TPS and MAF connections.
6. Remove the flexible hose from the air filter to the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the two water lines to the TB and consider a TB doing a bypass! This project will “clean up a very busy” area of the motor and will cost you less than $5 for a professional looking job!
8. Disconnect the various vacuum lines on that side of the plenum, as there are 4 to 5 as I recall. Note there is one vacuum line under the plenum (front, left hand side) and this one is easy to miss!
9. Remove the throttle body and place on a secure surface.
10. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (passenger side) and note any difference in length of screws.
11. At this point make sure all runner bolts (both sides) are removed and all connections to plenum are disconnected. Using a rubber or soft face hammer, slightly tap "upwards" under the plenum and the plenum will “just” come loose from the runners. (Do not loosen or remove the lower runner bolts.) Lift up and remove the plenum. Place this on a secure surface. If you drop it, you will cry real tears!!!
12. Remove the two fuel lines (right front side of engine) that go to and from the fuel rail assembly. Use a flare wrench for this removal.
13. Remove the two steel fuel lines (crossways to engine top) in front and rear of the fuel rail assembly. Note that a small Torx screw secures a bracket (that holds that end of the line) on each fuel rail. The rear line (and brackets) is a little difficult due to close space, but is easy to remove. Here you will have to use the ¼ Torx bit placed in the closed end of the ¼ inch combination wrench to remove the Torx screws. See the note on “special” tools at the beginning of this note!
14. Remove the EGR valve and the two bolts are in close quarters. I used a 7/16 inch combination wrench (use open end of wrench and place wrench in a vertical position) on the EGR hex bolts with a screwdriver in the closed end as a lever, useful for this “tight area”.
15. The passenger side injector rail assembly is easiest to remove. While standing on one side of the car (this is made easier by removing the two front wheels), grab the front of the rail with one hand and the back of the rail with the other hand. Rock the rail assembly side to side while gently pulling upwards. Be careful as the rail assembly will suddenly turn loose and you can damage the runner and some of your tender skin!! After the four injectors break loose, rotate the top of the fuel rail assembly toward the center of the engine and raise it upwards. That injector rail assembly will come out as one piece.
16. The other rail is removed the same way but required a special twist to get it out. Just work with it, have a cold beer and you can get it out.
17. Assembly is just the opposite sequence.

Do yourself a favor and use NEW "O" rings on the fuel rail lines and injectors, as they are cheap compared to another teardown! Hint: lubricate all the "O" rings with light oil for ease of re-assembly.

 

Also clean and inspect the fuel flex lines from the chassis to fuel rail.