C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

86 heater blower motor

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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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Default 86 heater blower motor

I would like to know how to remove the blower from an 86 vette I don't need to trouble shoot it it screams like a banshee when turned on. It seems like the inner fender has to come out to me, How hard is it.
Thanks
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Remove the four bolts on the plate the motor is on and you can remove the motor. Then remove the motor from the plate and buy a new motor from a parts store and reverse the procedure. You don't have to do anything to any fender components.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jfb
Remove the four bolts on the plate the motor is on and you can remove the motor. Then remove the motor from the plate and buy a new motor from a parts store and reverse the procedure. You don't have to do anything to any fender components.
YEA! Right I have a blower assembly ready to go in and I see non of what you say and further more with all of the screws out of the plate the motor cannot be removed . You must be guessing or have no knowledge of a 1986 c4 design
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AAzajack
YEA! Right I have a blower assembly ready to go in and I see non of what you say and further more with all of the screws out of the plate the motor cannot be removed . You must be guessing or have no knowledge of a 1986 c4 design
I am making the assumption that 86's are like my 87. My fan motor sticks straight out from the right side firewall. It was years ago that I replaced the fan motor. I think it may be hard to remove with the screws removed because of a fused gasket around the plate the motor is attached to, so you have to pull hard to separate the plate from the fan housing.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Looks like the junior member needs a FSM.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by My1st
Looks like the junior member needs a FSM.
First of all I have a Shop Manual second of all with all of the screws removed and the assembly loose the assy will not clear the inner fender BTW I got it changed once the screws holding the lower fender section to the wheel well section were removed the wheel well flexes enough to sneak the squirrel cage through
I have had a C4 before and my ownership of the 84 pre dates this forum by a considerabl margin Don't assume that I am a novice because I just joined this forum I was a member of CCDV in the mid 80's and Internet forums didn't exist I thank you very much
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AAzajack
First of all I have a Shop Manual second of all with all of the screws removed and the assembly loose the assy will not clear the inner fender BTW I got it changed once the screws holding the lower fender section to the wheel well section were removed the wheel well flexes enough to sneak the squirrel cage through
I have had a C4 before and my ownership of the 84 pre dates this forum by a considerabl margin Don't assume that I am a novice because I just joined this forum I was a member of CCDV in the mid 80's and Internet forums didn't exist I thank you very much
If its any Consolation, Our C4's are much easier to work on than 99 % of modern cars, pickups, and SUV's out on the roads today built in the last 20 years.

I have not had to change the HVAC blower motor on my 87 yet.
Working and quiet yet.

But it is sort of jam packed in there too.

Snap On 1/4" metric and SAE standard socket and swivel head ratchet comes in handy for repairs in very tight confined areas.

Along with a Snap On 12 " long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel - 1/4" drive Swivel U-joint on the end. Attach the socket size you need on the end.

Then go to work with patience and care in back of your mind.

That always works for me till I get my hands stuck. LOL

Then I have to figure out in backwards steps how I got my hands in there in 1st place to get them free.

BR
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jfb
Remove the four bolts on the plate the motor is on and you can remove the motor. Then remove the motor from the plate and buy a new motor from a parts store and reverse the procedure. You don't have to do anything to any fender components.
1. There are no bolts on the motor plate the motor is held on by crimping motor housing potrusions to the plate.
2. Bought whole assembly from E-Bay vendor and is the same as on car he also sent me an 87 up one which I sent back which was identical except for the electrical connector
3. The square steel firewall brace and the lower inner fender stop the cage from being fully removed.
4. There was no gasket or sealer on the assembly
5. I have been working on cars since the mid 60's and spent a lot of time under the hood of my friends 67 big block modding it for drag racing before they were considered sacred trailer queens
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
If its any Consolation, Our C4's are much easier to work on than 99 % of modern cars, pickups, and SUV's out on the roads today built in the last 20 years.

I have not had to change the HVAC blower motor on my 87 yet.
Working and quiet yet.

But it is sort of jam packed in there too.

Snap On 1/4" metric and SAE standard socket and swivel head ratchet comes in handy for repairs in very tight confined areas.

Along with a Snap On 12 " long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel - 1/4" drive Swivel U-joint on the end. Attach the socket size you need on the end.

Then go to work with patience and care in back of your mind.

That always works for me till I get my hands stuck. LOL

Then I have to figure out in backwards steps how I got my hands in there in 1st place to get them free.

BR
I got it done none of the advice was even close What your advice is what I did "figure it out for your self and BTW you haven't lived until you have changed the plugs on a Hemi durango all 16 of them or the left rear plg on a 68 Plymouth GTX 440 6 pack
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Sorry you are pissed off at me.

I never offered advice on how to change out the HVAC Blower motor on your C4.

I offered some good tips on working on very confined and cramped areas of modern vehicles in general.

I have changed out spark plugs, all 8 in a 1968 Big Block Corvette. And removed the both valvecovers to adjust all 16 valves. 68 Vette had A/C.
Sort of tough for a guy like me. I know all the tricks to make thhose tasks go easier.

You should try replacing both headgaskets on a 2001 Cadillac Seville with the Northstar 4.6L V8.

Have to Remove the front timing cover and retime all 4 camshafts.

Do it yourself with absolutely no help.

Make Flat rate time.

And do a quality repair job so it never comes back.

I have changed all the spark plugs in a Hemi durango. Not so bad.

My friend has a Fleet of Mopar Musclecars from the 60's.

440 6- packs too. He allways installs Hooker Super Comp 2 inch primary tube headers. 3-1/2 inch collectors. Powersteering cars too that also have A/C.

Changing spark plugs in Mopars are not too bad for me. I can be done in 10 or 15 minutes , including the rears.

You should work in GM Dealership, Ford, Chrysler, Or others.

Work on it all.

Cant say no , I will not work on that piece of%*((*

Managers, Service Writers, and owners don't care.

Make them money or else.

I spent many years in a GM Dealership as a Master Mechanic.

I have worked on Tasks and vehicles that would just make you puke or quit right away.

Brian R.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
Sorry you are pissed off at me.

I never offered advice on how to change out the HVAC Blower motor on your C4.

I offered some good tips on working on very confined and cramped areas of modern vehicles in general.

I have changed out spark plugs, all 8 in a 1968 Big Block Corvette. And removed the both valvecovers to adjust all 16 valves. 68 Vette had A/C.
Sort of tough for a guy like me. I know all the tricks to make thhose tasks go easier.

You should try replacing both headgaskets on a 2001 Cadillac Seville with the Northstar 4.6L V8.

Have to Remove the front timing cover and retime all 4 camshafts.

Do it yourself with absolutely no help.

Make Flat rate time.

And do a quality repair job so it never comes back.

I have changed all the spark plugs in a Hemi durango. Not so bad.

My friend has a Fleet of Mopar Musclecars from the 60's.

440 6- packs too. He allways installs Hooker Super Comp 2 inch primary tube headers. 3-1/2 inch collectors. Powersteering cars too that also have A/C.

Changing spark plugs in Mopars are not too bad for me. I can be done in 10 or 15 minutes , including the rears.

You should work in GM Dealership, Ford, Chrysler, Or others.

Work on it all.

Cant say no , I will not work on that piece of%*((*

Managers, Service Writers, and owners don't care.

Make them money or else.

I spent many years in a GM Dealership as a Master Mechanic.

I have worked on Tasks and vehicles that would just make you puke or quit right away.

Brian R.
Not pissed at anyone you offered good general advice been worklng on this stuff since the 60's just thought someone here would have an easier way than what I figured out
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #12  
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I recall now that I pulled the motor far enough to remove the impeller blade and then the motor was free. I installed it in the reverse manor.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by AAzajack
Not pissed at anyone you offered good general advice been worklng on this stuff since the 60's just thought someone here would have an easier way than what I figured out
yes you do have to remove the inner fenderwell and i removed the side panel as well just for convenience it wasnt a difficult job just more time consuming than expected and to the guy trying to up you about cadillacs try installing a starter and resetting all the injectors in the nick of time to avoid an incoming storm
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:34 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by justin10morrissey
yes you do have to remove the inner fenderwell and i removed the side panel as well just for convenience it wasnt a difficult job just more time consuming than expected and to the guy trying to up you about cadillacs try installing a starter and resetting all the injectors in the nick of time to avoid an incoming storm
Installing a Starter Motor on a Cadillac Northstar Engine Or Oldsmobile Aurora V-8 engines are easy for me.

Have to remove the upper plenum. Starter Motor is located down in the engine valley underneath.

With no air tools, I can get the starter motor changed out in one of these cars in 30 minutes or less.

With a Snap On air ratchet, I can get the starter motor changed out in 20 minutes.

Worked GM Flat Rate for years in the dealerships.

We would race each other for fun sometimes.

My record for changing out out a automatic GM 4t60E transaxle in a 2001 Chevy V-6 Monte Carlo is 65 minutes flat.

Start to finish. Added ATF, Double checked my work, checked for leaks, And test drove it away down the highway.

No help. All on my own. Including lifting the transaxles off and on to the transjacks myself.

BR
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:37 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by justin10morrissey
yes you do have to remove the inner fenderwell and i removed the side panel as well just for convenience it wasnt a difficult job just more time consuming than expected and to the guy trying to up you about cadillacs try installing a starter and resetting all the injectors in the nick of time to avoid an incoming storm
I am that guy, lol
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
I am that guy, lol
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