C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Remove Oil Sender(Switch)

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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Default Remove Oil Sender(Switch)

How in the world do i remove the bottom oil sender back by the distributer. Thier is 2 one set all most straight up the other one is sideways. I cant find any tool to get this off. Please HELP Don
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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You use an open end wrench or the box end side.The two sending units are different sizes.You may have to turn the distributer or remove it to get enough room too use the wrench.The piece they screw into can be removed with the right size socket.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by steven mack
remove it

Much less frustrating to take dist out
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 08:05 AM
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I took out the windshield wiper motor.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Can anyone tell me the size of the wrench it takes. Don
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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I ended up useing a pair of channel lock plies when the wrench would not get it out and was lucky. New one went in rather easy with the wrench and some teflon tape. My thought was the sensor is no good so can not hurt it and if the pliers don't work will start pulling other things to get a good bite with a wrench. Yes it sounds crude but saved a ton of time as a first try to get it out of there.
Dave
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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Don, I think that is a special socket. I am sure a 12 point will work but it is a sloppy fit. FYI the design and placement of those two sensors was done by the same guy who did the heater core and rear tail lights.

Pulling the distributor is not a big deal if you stay away from the starter. Also those are very fine threads you are working with, cross thread is very easy so caution is advised.

Last edited by Muffin; Jan 11, 2011 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Muffin
Don, I think that is a special socket. I am sure a 12 point will work but it is a sloppy fit. FYI the design and placement of those two sensors was done by the same guy who did the heater core and rear tail lights.
I think they got some help from the guy that put all the relays behind the dash... Why does changing a relay have to involve removeing dash panels? If I had bought an earlier car i would have pulled about 50% of the wiring out and put things where you can actually get to them.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ddahlgren
I think they got some help from the guy that put all the relays behind the dash... Why does changing a relay have to involve removeing dash panels? If I had bought an earlier car i would have pulled about 50% of the wiring out and put things where you can actually get to them.

I think it has to do with ease/speed of assembly at the factory--future owners and/or technicians be damned.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ddahlgren
I ended up useing a pair of channel lock plies when the wrench would not get it out and was lucky. New one went in rather easy with the wrench and some teflon tape. My thought was the sensor is no good so can not hurt it and if the pliers don't work will start pulling other things to get a good bite with a wrench. Yes it sounds crude but saved a ton of time as a first try to get it out of there.
Dave
I also used channel lock pliers, after I took the dist cap off. Couldn't turn it hardly at all, but after many little turns it came off. I put in a new sender and switch just to be on the safe side. I got a socket on the top one.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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My thought is it is pretty hard to break something that is broken already as long as you don't burn any bridges by rounding off wrench flats you always have a backup plan.
Dave
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