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Not much of a mechanic, so I was hoping for some advice.
My '84 has set for two years, started right up though.
After a couple trips to the store, went to go again, and engine just turns over and won't start.
I went ahead and replaced fuel pump and fuel filter, but same thing.
I haven't checked to see if I'm getting a spark, any advice on that in particular ?
So is there anything I should be looking at that is a common failure ?
I've had the '84 since '89 and it's always ran great with no misfires.
Take the air cleaner off and see if fuel is squirting out the throttle bodies when you crank the motor. If not, figure why the fuel pump may not be running, (fuse, wiring). If you have fuel, most likely you don't have spark. The fact that the car ran means that the fuel, although old must still be ok unless you have hit a water layer at the bottom of the tank.
Use a timing light during cranking to see if you have spark. Pull a spark plug wire and bring a grounded wire close to the spark plug boot and during cranking you should see a snappy at least 1/2" spark. Weak spark may allow the timing light to work but won't start the engine.
Check for 12v on the pink wire (color on my 87) on the distributor. Check with an ohmeter for ground on the blk/red wire (color on my 87). Check for pulses on the ppl/white wire during cranking (color on my 87), no pulses then pickup coil or spark module is defective. Look at the condition of the rotor and the inside of the distributor cap for carbon tracks. The rotor has a hemispherical dimple in its center and sometimes there will be a carbon track through the rotor at the dimple. Most common failure would be the spark module inside the distributor which can be removed and tested at some parts stores. Same goes for the spark coil. We have a member that doesn't believe in store testers, but it is a start. Besides this part is only about $25 and you might consider just replacing it. Another possibility is a defective pickup coil which is in the bottom of the distributor and can be checked with an ohmeter for continuity.
Well I did something dumb. I tried the shotgun aproach, and replaced the distributor control module, distributor cap and rotor and coil.
That didn't change anything.
I then discovered that the 14 gauge red/pink wire that goes into the distributor is not hot even with the key on. Doesn't that come from the battery, and should always be hot ?
Last edited by DansVette; Jan 30, 2011 at 09:27 PM.
The first thing in my suggestions was to check for 12v on the distributor pink wire. For the life of me I don't understand why people ask for help and then don't follow the suggestions.
The pink wire is NOT hot all the time, it has 12v on it from the ignition switch in the run to start positions. The ignition switch gets power through the red wire from the large terminal on the starter motor and through the firewall connector on 84's. You either have a defective wire going to the ignition switch, or a defective ignition switch, or a bad wire coming from the ignition switch through the firewall connector to the distributor. It would be best for you to take a 12v lamp, ground one wire and use the other wire to see if you have 12v (lamp lights) on both sides of the firewall connector on the red wire from the starter and then on the ignition switch input and with the ign sw in run, see if you have 12v on the ign sw output and on both sides of the firewall connector and out to the pink wire on the distributor.