84 A/C Delete
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
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From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
The 84 A/C mounts differently than the 87 (even though it is the same unit) as it has a different mounting bracket to cater for the belt tensioner different location.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
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From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
What do you do about the belt tensioner? Need to get an 87 one of those too?
Race Director
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From: moraga ca
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Australia
I'm still not seeing why you can't do what we discussed and do the '85+ delete mod.
Removes all the crap from RHS of engine and does away with all the idlers and AIR pump
Only sticking point is making the PS bracket adjustable for Alt/ belt adjustment
Send me some good pics from the LHS of the Alt mounting bracket / resivour arrangement
Removes all the crap from RHS of engine and does away with all the idlers and AIR pump
Only sticking point is making the PS bracket adjustable for Alt/ belt adjustment
Send me some good pics from the LHS of the Alt mounting bracket / resivour arrangement
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
I'm still not seeing why you can't do what we discussed and do the '85+ delete mod.
Removes all the crap from RHS of engine and does away with all the idlers and AIR pump
Only sticking point is making the PS bracket adjustable for Alt/ belt adjustment
Send me some good pics from the LHS of the Alt mounting bracket / resivour arrangement
Removes all the crap from RHS of engine and does away with all the idlers and AIR pump
Only sticking point is making the PS bracket adjustable for Alt/ belt adjustment
Send me some good pics from the LHS of the Alt mounting bracket / resivour arrangement
I thought the other sticking point though was the water pump (going in the opposite direction) and water pump pulley (smooth instead of ribbed). My suggestion for belt routing was an attempt to overcome these 2 issues. Then a new custom belt is required (Where does one source this?).
Here is a photo.
Last edited by Lemme; Jan 28, 2011 at 12:09 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
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From: moraga ca
Lemme, I think the ac delete pulley should work on a stock 84. The compressor is the same as that of the 85 vette. You will be able to utilize the stock tensioner and won't have to worry about the waterpump.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
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From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
For the moment I have gone ahead and removed the compressor, bracket and tensioner. It certainly cleans up the front RHS of the engine as Rod suggests. I like that because I am going to be under that hood a lot. If my belt routing works (can't see why it won't) then I won't have to worry about the waterpump in any case.
Last edited by Lemme; Jan 26, 2011 at 09:52 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Supreme Soviet Peace-Loving Pipple's Kollektive of Seattle Wa
I pulled all my A/C stuff out too. The clutch bearing in the compressor finally went out and I just put another compressor in. I need to finish the job and eliminate it.
I was going to fabricate a 3-point mounting plate and bolt on a ribbed pulley, then with the tensioner at mid-point, measure the needed belt length with a string. Remember, if the crank pulley is ribbed, all the ribbed pulleys will turn the same direction as the crank, all the flat pulleys will turn opposite.
One caution: don't eliminate the belt tensioner pulley. Serpentine belts run better and longer with them. They absorb belt loads under accelleration and decelleration.
I was going to fabricate a 3-point mounting plate and bolt on a ribbed pulley, then with the tensioner at mid-point, measure the needed belt length with a string. Remember, if the crank pulley is ribbed, all the ribbed pulleys will turn the same direction as the crank, all the flat pulleys will turn opposite.
One caution: don't eliminate the belt tensioner pulley. Serpentine belts run better and longer with them. They absorb belt loads under accelleration and decelleration.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
I pulled all my A/C stuff out too. The clutch bearing in the compressor finally went out and I just put another compressor in. I need to finish the job and eliminate it.
I was going to fabricate a 3-point mounting plate and bolt on a ribbed pulley, then with the tensioner at mid-point, measure the needed belt length with a string. Remember, if the crank pulley is ribbed, all the ribbed pulleys will turn the same direction as the crank, all the flat pulleys will turn opposite.
One caution: don't eliminate the belt tensioner pulley. Serpentine belts run better and longer with them. They absorb belt loads under accelleration and decelleration.
I was going to fabricate a 3-point mounting plate and bolt on a ribbed pulley, then with the tensioner at mid-point, measure the needed belt length with a string. Remember, if the crank pulley is ribbed, all the ribbed pulleys will turn the same direction as the crank, all the flat pulleys will turn opposite.
One caution: don't eliminate the belt tensioner pulley. Serpentine belts run better and longer with them. They absorb belt loads under accelleration and decelleration.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,908
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From: Supreme Soviet Peace-Loving Pipple's Kollektive of Seattle Wa
The ribbed replacement pulley is smaller than the original A/C pulley, so the existing belt will be a bit longer than needed. I want to get a good measurement to compare with the existing belt and the tensioner index mark. I don't want to have to move any of the power steering reservoir or brackets.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Here is my new belt route mocked up with the ac and belt tensioner out
The original belt is 89 inches. The new one for this route would be about 64 inches.
I am thinking that the AIR delete pulley location would make the obvious place to do the tensioning.
The original belt is 89 inches. The new one for this route would be about 64 inches.
I am thinking that the AIR delete pulley location would make the obvious place to do the tensioning.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Supreme Soviet Peace-Loving Pipple's Kollektive of Seattle Wa
Seems the perfect place-it's a flat pulley, so it can be mounted above the belt to ride down on top of it. Looks good! No need for air pump delete pulley, just the A/C delete, right? Looks like you didn't have to move the power steering reservoir or the alternator bracket, is that right? And finally-where did you get the A/C delete? That could save me from fabbing my own mount! Looks like you did a great job with that!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Seems the perfect place-it's a flat pulley, so it can be mounted above the belt to ride down on top of it. Looks good! No need for air pump delete pulley, just the A/C delete, right? Looks like you didn't have to move the power steering reservoir or the alternator bracket, is that right? And finally-where did you get the A/C delete? That could save me from fabbing my own mount! Looks like you did a great job with that!The AIR delete pulley has been left in the belt path.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 3
From: Supreme Soviet Peace-Loving Pipple's Kollektive of Seattle Wa
The A/C stuff is quite a pain to work around and worse if you must remove it for deeper access! At my age, ease of repair means more than having the car all-original....