derekguzz

I might be getting annoying to some of you guys but you are the only ones I have to help me !!

1994 6spd. ( SPEC stage 1 clutch and flywheel)

1). I mounted the flywheel to the block---Are there torque specs on those bolts?

2). When tightening the pressure plate bolts going into the flywheel, how do I know when to not tighten anymore? I know the pressure plate cover is not supposed to touch the flywheel and I don't want to tighten too much to where I am smashing the clutch...I am sooo confused...

Should I use thread lock on all bolts??

Black89Z51

Make sure you align the match marks on the PP and the FW. They come as a balanced set.

1 - Yes, as well as a sequence - check your service manual.

2- There is a torque spec and sequence for those as well. Tighten by hand until the PP is seated against the FW then torque to spec.

3- Yes, use thread locker on all the bolts.

derekguzz

It feels like the pressure plate cover wont seat ALL the way against the flywheel because of the clutch plate. I feel if I try and seat it I might crush and crack the clutch. Is this normal or should I go ahead and try and seat it?

With a comfortable amount of tightening of the bolts, I still have about a 1/16 of an inch of gap between the flywheel and the pressure plate cover

96GS#007

....and you used the clutch alignment tool when setting it up?

derekguzz

I just mounted stuff to see how it works and try it. I haven't final mount anything yet. But yes I have the alignment tool in there

96GS#007

Ok. So then think about the operation of the clutch assembly, which includes the pressure [<===hint] plate and you'll understand why the pressure [<===hint] plate doesn't simply seat.

0Paul Ruggeri

The pressure plate bolts should be tightened in a star pattern, like lugnuts. The lip of the plate where the bolts go through should end up flush with the FW. I don't have the torque specs, but it should be enough to flatten the lock washers. If you don't tightened the bolts enough, the clutch will slip.

derekguzz

Well the gap between the pressure plate cover and the flywheel is about 1/16 of an inch...I will call spec tomorrow and double check ! I WILL TAKE A PIC TOO !

PLRX

Torque flywheel bolts to 74 ft lb

Torque pressure plate to flywheel to 30 ft lb. Use FSM tighten order.

Torque the bellhousing to engine block to 37 ft lb

Torque tranny bolts to 37 ft. lb. Use FSM tighten order.





http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lrx-lt4-3.html

mtwoolford

if your clutch is a pull type (stock style) make sure the clutch disc is installed with the hat portion facing the engine (opposite of "normal" clutches)

856SPEED

have you considered taking to a reputable shop?

Doughboy2k3

I have the same clutch.
Put the high side toward the FW (engine). Also I have read that it should be tightened and loosened in stages following the correct pattern. For example 10 lb, 25lb, etc, that is the way I do it.

derekguzz

No I will not take it to a shop. I am going to learn this by myself and do it. Thanks for all the help

96GS#007

...and new clutch disks from SPEC are labeled "FW Side"

derekguzz

Thanks guys for the advice. I finally got the pressure plate cover flush with the flywheel. I used the star tightening order as mentioned above and got it to rest flush. Torqued to 30ft/lbs. and shes good to go with thread lock. I messed around with the clutch using both sides and noticed the clutch won't sit flush when it was backwards. So it was obvious which side went where. And like above mentioned, the "FW side" stick went towards the flywheel.

Again thank you soo much for the help. I can sleep now.

P.S...A shop who replaced the clutch ect last time I guess only thought that using 3 out of the 6 bolts for the bell housing would be sufficient ! lol.. And one was loose. Maybe they fell out who knows but no sign of thread lock.

Doughboy2k3

Nice, they finally started marking them. They probably were getting tired of the phone calls.

Not trying to hijack. I purchased this clutch about 8 years back and I am not sure what stage it is. Do any of you guys know just by the pic below. Thanks

383vett

You don't need thread lock on the pressure plate bolts; you have lock washers. The bellhousing to block bolts also don't need threadlock. The proper torque will keep the bolts tight. Good for you for trying this job yourself. In the future, a factory service manual in invaluable. You can pretty much rebuild a whole car from the information in the manual. Good luck. Willie

derekguzz

I am going to have a wild guess and say STAGE 2

Thanks you for the helps again guys- I remeber when I was working on the opti and water pump ect. and thought that was confusing and hard. Hopefully next time around these problems and questions about the motor and clutch ect. will seem childish..

96GS#007

Spend the $100 on the Factory Service Manuals. 99% of the questions you've asked over the last several months are answered in there.

Some friendly advice...Eventually the guys that know the answers will see you haven't bought or used the most basic yet important information source. When that happens, the answers will dry up (or less knowledgeable people will give you bad information to follow) and the $100 you've saved to date will seem like a small price to pay.

derekguzz

I have realized that. That is why I am very thankful for everyones help so far and keep giving thanks

I will stop asking questions....