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Well Im still having the clicking. I changed all u joints, teflon washers, and outter washers and nuts on both side. Torqued down to 200 pounds. I greased the spindles on the way out too.
Passenger thinks its coming from the driver side of car and I think its coming from the passenger side.
It all happened after a hard take off on the street. Tires spun. What next? Any inputs?
Did you replace the fluid since you put it in, if you did replace the fluid, did you use oil plus the posi fluid stuff?
Yes I did, I did front seal on the dana 44 and had to fill her back up. I used Royal Purple Max Gear oil. Comes with the limited slip additive in it. I checked the fluid and removed the drain plug and fluid came out.
Maybe internal?
Last edited by fc_soldier; Jan 28, 2011 at 04:18 PM.
If you changed all those things out then about the only other thing it could be is the bearing.. Funny, a clicking is usually the washer or U-Joints , not the bearing..If its doing it at low speed, you can get someone to walk next to the car to see which side its coming from...WW
If you changed all those things out then about the only other thing it could be is the bearing.. Funny, a clicking is usually the washer or U-Joints , not the bearing..If its doing it at low speed, you can get someone to walk next to the car to see which side its coming from...WW
Bearing as in wheel bearing or one in the diff.? I replaced the pass wheel bearing cause I had a spare. I have a spare for the driver side I guess I could do that one just to do it.
Yes I did, I did front seal on the dana 44 and had to fill her back up. I used Royal Purple Max Gear oil. Comes with the limited slip additive in it. I checked the fluid and removed the drain plug and fluid came out.
Maybe internal?
I was thinking that you could have messed up the gears, like cracked one of the teeth or something which is causing the clicking noise.
I had a rear end go and it made the clicking noise. Hopefully it isn't the rear axle, but it could be. Good luck with this one.
Any way to check, my guess is take apart and inspect? Only makes sound when going down the road. I put the car on jack stands and my girl went 30 mph ish with me under it. Nothing no sounds. Only when under load. And it goes away with more weight in the car.
Any way to check, my guess is take apart and inspect? Only makes sound when going down the road. I put the car on jack stands and my girl went 30 mph ish with me under it. Nothing no sounds. Only when under load. And it goes away with more weight in the car.
You could try to get some fluid from the bottom of the rear end and have an oil analysis ran. But there is usually a little bit of wear normally. I would say just run it till it goes, but always be prepared that it could happen any time. Mine did begin to get progressively worse.
Well I replaced everything I will test drive tomorrow to see if its fixed. I need some luck on my side.
What Ive done
Every Ujoint replaced
New Inner washers
New Outter Washers
Used (Good Off my 33k dana 36) wheel bearing
I tightened all bolts did a eyeball over the whole underneath of car. Nothing that I could see.
Possible problems or ideas?
Transmission? Shifts good dont think so
Dana 44? High possibility (removal for inspection to confirm)
Brakes? Low to no possibility ( Clicking present on or off the brakes)
Flexplate? Checked (but maybe hairline crack) Be more of a hum i think
Try the jack stands again but apply the brakes enough to make the engine labour a bit. If clicking is there, you can find it, if clicking isn't there, prob isn't the rear end as the diff in a Vette has no idea if tires are on ground, only knows if there is torque being pushed through it.
If that is the case (no noise even with brakes applied) then it has to be something carrying weight _or_ something at a different angle when the suspension is squated. A u-joint with a broken needle (ie jammed when installed) can make a tick tick tick for each time it flexes, normally 4 times per revolution.
Hit post too quick
Sorry, u-joint info is correct but it would do it on stand with brakes applied (but may not without load). It would also likely do it worse on stands under load as they will be at a higher angle.
Also, just like a normal front drive car, if the spline into the bearing hub doesn't seat right or is loose, it will click but only under load.
Last idea, don't know what you have for wheels but if they are 2 or more piece wheels, it could be them, move front to back and see if clicking goes to the front of the car.
Try the jack stands again but apply the brakes enough to make the engine labour a bit. If clicking is there, you can find it, if clicking isn't there, prob isn't the rear end as the diff in a Vette has no idea if tires are on ground, only knows if there is torque being pushed through it.
If that is the case (no noise even with brakes applied) then it has to be something carrying weight _or_ something at a different angle when the suspension is squated. A u-joint with a broken needle (ie jammed when installed) can make a tick tick tick for each time it flexes, normally 4 times per revolution.
Yes I had the car in the air there was no clicking what so ever. Only if my rear proves to be good. Ill replace every suspension peice in the back and grommets. I really just want to prove the rear is good.
All u joints have been replaced recently. As in it started to click as it does now I then decided to change every u joint.
Hit post too quick
Sorry, u-joint info is correct but it would do it on stand with brakes applied (but may not without load). It would also likely do it worse on stands under load as they will be at a higher angle.
Also, just like a normal front drive car, if the spline into the bearing hub doesn't seat right or is loose, it will click but only under load.
Last idea, don't know what you have for wheels but if they are 2 or more piece wheels, it could be them, move front to back and see if clicking goes to the front of the car.
Greg
I will try what you say and see the results.
Ive done the Hub wheel bearings 3 times. I tighten it down to 200 pounds. I know I got it good im sure.
I have CCW 2 peice wheels. I have 335 on the back and 285 in the front. I can swap I believe it will be a tight fit on front.
That will be fat in the front, just don't turn at all!
If it were your wheel you'd probably see a small patch of black dust at one of the hub to rim joints, but they can do it, all wheels flex and a hard burn out certainly could have loosened a joint. (like every 80's chev truck went squeek/click from wheel flex and stupid trim rings).
I have found odd troubles in past by loading the driveline with the brakes on stands.. You'll want enough brake pressure to need 1/8+ throttle to hold 30 or 40mph. You'll only have 5 or 10 seconds before brakes start getting hot. Let them rest for 10 or 15 minutes between attempts.
Hey, stupid thought, but you did check for nails in your tire? I had a friggin roofing screw in a tire, clicked for every revolution..
Im really going to check on this one but I did have a flat driverside tire after sitting for awhile. I have another set of rims and tires I think Ill put them on to eliminate alittle.
The burn out was more of just a power forward thing. I didnt brake stand I put the gas from a 5-10 mph roll. And got to about 30mph then the clicking came as soon as I let off the gas. It was on a dirty road tires just spun.
If you've ever had a stone in your tire on anything you drive, you'll know the speed of the click click that provides, if it's at the same pace as that....
If you've ever had a stone in your tire on anything you drive, you'll know the speed of the click click that provides, if it's at the same pace as that....
I got worn Nitto555r street drag radials on. I should be about to spot easy I hope.
I had this. The splines on one of the stub axles that pass thru the wheel bearing were worn. When I was taking it apart I happened to notice a funny wear pattern on the splines. I had performed all the usual stuff you listed...washers, tightening, grease, etc and nothing fixed it....the new axle did.