Wow, I just love being called a fool. When the opti is bad and it needs to be replaced, the fact is plain and simple that the newer model is cheaper. Thus, I could pay a lot of money for an older model and then hack it up and slop it up with sealer. OR I could pay a lot less for the newer model and just save on the hacking and just slop it up with sealer. Sure it takes a little more work because of the other stuff you have to change, but EVENTUALLY you will have to replace it again. If the older style is harder to find and is more expensive now, what do you think it will be like in 5 years?

So if you go ahead and do the conversion now, you can replace some other things while you are into it, such as the timing chain. Then if you ever have to repalce it again, it will be much cheaper. You can put the new style on for about the same price as the old style, it just takes a little more work.

However that being said, the new opti is WAY over rated. The only reason I'll be going with it is 1, COST and 2, Ability to use whatever timing set I want. I've known more people to have the vented opti fail than have ever had the non vented one quit.

 

I have to agree with Nathan here. We're getting ready to have our motor rebuilt and the I have a perfectly good '94 opti on there now. It's coming off!!!! One, it has to for the double roller setup. Two, I'm tired of messing with pre '95-'96 opti's. The '95-'96 opti is about $100 cheaper than the pre '95's. If you modify a pre '95, then it has to be done everytime you change it. I'm only modifing once. Then when it comes time for a replacement, I save $100, get a better opti, and there are no further modifications to it. Much better way of doing things IMHO. Especially if you plan on keeping the car FOREVER, like we do! :cheers:


Edit: Except for one part. I've heard of a lot less vented ones failing than the non-vented. Most vented ones will dry out if they get a little wet. I don't think you have much of a chance at all on a non-vented one.


[Modified by R94 LT 1, 3:05 PM 4/13/2002]


[Modified by R94 LT 1, 3:06 PM 4/13/2002]

 

Isn't this a great thread. Lots of interest.

As for me, at least for the moment I seemed to luck out. I called my local mechanic (our local dealer only warrants a new opti for 12 months or 12,000 miles) to get the car in. He happens to be one of those Generation Xers with traditional values. Anyway, he suggested that I get the car up to running speed a couple of times before I bought it in. He thought that, if I was lucky, it could be condensation that accumulated during our Chicagoland winter. I let the car idle for about 30 minutes and took it our for a spin. So far, all the problems have gone away. For now I am just going to let it go. It is the original opti and I am sure it will go out eventually (44,000 miles). I posted another topic on the subject since a few mentioned that they had the same problem now that the cars are out of storage.

I appreciate the information which will come in handy later, I am sure.

 

Not yet - hopping it will last until I do the cam, heads etc. 48k for miles so I think that I am getting close. :seeya

 

Did I say Hopping? Probably, but really hoping it lasts.. :crazy:

 

Nathan,

I was definitely not calling you a fool, sorry my post was unclear. I was speaking "in general" and referring to the folks who are winning this poll... that is, everyone who chooses to throw expensive, defectively-designed OEM parts at their car again..and again...and again. Specifically..the EARLY Opti.

I know one person who's on his 5th OEM early Optispark and his car is STILL unreliable. He constantly whines & spent about $3k on repairs...he is allergic to water and afraid to drive his car. He mysteriously objects to any suggestion about modification. All this...instead of $20 worth of mods. Others come to hate the car and simply sell it and absorb a huge financial hit.

There are a very small group of owners who just happen to be in the midst of a cam change or their motor is torn down or pulled for rebuild or repair. In these cases, upgrade to the later style can make economic sense. I am not criticizing individuals for this option. However, forum members have justified cam swaps and total engine rebuilds on good motors where the primary purpose was to install a later style Optispark. Many folks recommend replacing a perfectly good $100 water pump..some even looked for electrical pump alternative to try to keep water from touching their new, unmodified early Opti. In these cases, the repair options seem ill-directed and costly.

R94LT1,

Your comment that mods retrofitted to an early Optispark would need to be redone on future replacements hardly seems relevant. A properly sealed and purged Optispark is good for around 100K miles, no matter if it's an early or late unit. The actual mods to the unit itself involve a drilled hole in the cap and gluing a hose in the base. This takes 30 minutes...every 100K miles. Seams need coated with RTV on early and late Optis to ensure no leakage. The key to preventing rust and high voltage breakdown is moisture purge and good seal. And...if you're suggesting an unmodified later unit is the ultimate solution, you'd better RECONSIDER. Several owners on this forum of '95 and '96 cars have reported moisture failure due to leakage at the seams. I observed them searching for aftermarket solutions. Later style Opti failure is fairly prominent in the concours scene where owners wash their motors. It also happens when water pumps or hoses fail. The seals in the later units are NOT captive either! The ridge that the upper seal is perched upon is very narrow. When the gasket shrinks or relaxes with age, it will dislodge and fail. The two vintages of caps share this same basic sealing flaw. In both cases, a compromised seal will result in failure. I would strongly advise all LT1 and LT4 owners to coat all seams with a bead of black Permatex RTV using a hobby brush.


[Modified by Rick93Z07, 8:57 AM 4/14/2002]

 

Actually I just wanted to see what you would say :jester

I agree with you 100% In fact I would like some info on exactly how you seal up the new style. I've seen it before but I don't remember right off hand. Do you actually take it apart or do you just put silicone around the outside seam?

 

Nathan,

No need to dissassemble new unit. Squeeze on:1) lower cap seam with aluminum base and 2) upper-to-lower cap seam. I put a 1/8" bead around it in stages and wiped it gently across seam BEFORE it begins setting up to get better bonding. You want some bead thickness to remain over the seam, so don't brush it on thin like paint. Use the best BLACK high Temp RTV by the mfr Permatex. It is more sticky and does not peel off when you rub it. It is more like a glue and sticks better, compared to other's.