When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you can cut the stock pipes to weld on the collectors, its not that hard to do. That's assuming they are reasonable headers. Some require some "adjusting" to make them fit.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I got my Stainless Works headers "used" for about $1K
When I got my old manifolds and cats off they slid in like buttah (had it on jackstands)
Attached the bullet cats, wanted better pipes bact to the LT1 exhaust cans.
Drove it to the muffler shop with open headers and $125 later it was all hooked up.
That included the exhaust pipes, welding and putting the old hanges on.
jaa1992, I am considering doing a similar setup and was wondering how you like it. Also how big of tubing you used, x pipe or no, and if it resonates. Thanks
As for header install, assuming LT's, from what I've read the difficulty seems to vary between manufacturer as well as the ability after install to do routine maint. ie spark plug access. May want to search the archives for the particular brand you would like to go with. There are a lot of folks here with headers, and if you tried yourself and got stuck I'm sure they would be able to help you though it. Better than shelling out 1,000 clams.
I got my Stainless Works headers "used" for about $1K
When I got my old manifolds and cats off they slid in like buttah (had it on jackstands)
Attached the bullet cats, wanted better pipes bact to the LT1 exhaust cans.
Drove it to the muffler shop with open headers and $125 later it was all hooked up.
That included the exhaust pipes, welding and putting the old hanges on.
I will be getting SW. Good to know they "slid in like buttah" Thats exactly what I wanted to hear.
Did you have any trouble getting the old headers off? I figured spaying it will some penetrating oil. I am afraid of breaking one of the nuts thats why i was looking into have a shop do it.
Thanks LT1*C4, i saw your thread on the new ARH. They look like quality headers. I will be going with stainless works. I dont see myself having issues with 1 5/8 later as im not out to get all the power I can.
I can be one of those guys that gets frustrated over installs, but usually its because its my first time doing it and after its finished I feel like it was not soo bad. If I can get help with the install I think I wont have an issue. However I was looking at it on my lunch break and it looks like sometimes its just easier to pay up.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by flightmate
jaa1992, I am considering doing a similar setup and was wondering how you like it. Also how big of tubing you used, x pipe or no, and if it resonates. Thanks
As for header install, assuming LT's, from what I've read the difficulty seems to vary between manufacturer as well as the ability after install to do routine maint. ie spark plug access. May want to search the archives for the particular brand you would like to go with. There are a lot of folks here with headers, and if you tried yourself and got stuck I'm sure they would be able to help you though it. Better than shelling out 1,000 clams.
The shop was able to use 3" ID aluminized muffler pipe from the output of the bullet cats that came with the SW headers to the pipes for the LT1 mufflers. No X pipe, when I had it with skinner dual pipes instead of the resonator there was no resonance. just sounded "throaty" when I got on it. With the 383 and the big duals its really throaty, seems like it will be under the 103db limit for running on the road course.
I'll see if I can capture sound on my video this weekend. I'll be in Kershaw, SC at CMP.
Plug changes - 1 and 2 with full size plugs are a little difficult. I use a short spark plug socket with a 3/4 hex that I can use an open end wrench or through ratchet.
I am in the process of installing EM long tubes this winter. Since I don't drive my car in winter I have lots of time. I can say it's the toughest job I have done on my vett so far (done the opti twice, lowered, interior sound deadner, short throw shifter, half shaft u joints, rebuild front end, rear bearings, etc). The hard part is getting the old stuff off, the new headers slid in very easy and now lots of room to route wires, good clearance for plugs etc. The hardest part was getting the cat brackets off the bell housing (mines a 6 spd). I had to jack the engine up, take out the motor mounts, lower the engine so I could reach the top two bell housing bolts. The AIR hard lines were next. I soaked the fittings in PB for days then tons of heat and still broke both fittings off. Its a job you can do but you need lots of time and get away from it when you start getting steamed! Good luck
PS; I think 1200 -1500 is sky high, it's about an 8 hr job for a good mechanic in a good shop with a lift, torch, welder etc. I would guess, that's more like 800.
Last edited by tombrammer; Feb 9, 2011 at 10:52 PM.
I tried to do the install myself on my hookers. I got to the point where I was trying take the driver side ( passenger side came out easy) original headers off and got nervous about my AIR ect. had it towed and done.
Now that I am about done on my trans and engine rebuild. I was an idiot to have someone else put them in ! I slid mine up threw the bottom. and took my time. Asked a tun of questions on here. But like mentioned above, there are many people here with headers and who are willing to help !