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I'm not refering to the actual key cylinder, but the switch under the dash above the steering column.
Haynes manual say's to remove the headlight dimmer switch, but I can't see why this would be necessary.
Anyway, at my age and weight it's hell to try and lie on the floor and see the switch. Anyone have any advice as the best way to get to the switch ?
if you pull the seat bottom loose and move it out of the way, theres only a clip on the front, it will give you more room. then pull the knee panel, and you should be able to get at it
I have just replaced mine on my 87. I don't know what year yours is however, they are probably the same. The Corvette shop manual says to remove the steering column. I removed the panel and the lower dash panel in order to remove the two bolts holding the steering column in place. Once the column was down you can see the switch. The dimmer switch bracket shares the ignition bolts for mounting. So, when you remove the bolts so goes the dimmer switch. Be sure to unplug the ignition wire harnesses before removing the bolts. The small bolts which mount the ignition switch are difficult to get to. Getting the small wrenches to line up on the bolts can be frustrating to say the least. Oh, having a beer and break helped me a great deal. The reason I replaced the ignition switch was that the contacts in the switch had worn out causing an intermittent starting condition. After it was replaced, I have had no problems what so ever. Another thing, be careful to adjust the switch location correctly.
Great info guys, I didn't even think of removing the seat, that's what I'll do.
Gary, when you had your intermitent starting problem, would the engine always turn over though ?
I'm replacing the switch because my engine turns, but will not fire. The pink wire going into my distributor is not hot, so I'm assuming the switch is bad.
The problem with my 87 was I would sometimes turn the ignition switch to start it and there would be nothing. There was no clicking of the solenoid on the starter, just the instrument panel would light up. I was able to get it to turn over by cycling the switch a couple more times. I knew that sooner or later just continuing to cycle the switch would not work. The contacts inside the ignition switch are cup and spring witch will wear out allowing the spring to fall out of its plastic socket. The pink wire does go through the ignition switch, so I agree with you in it being a good step to take.
Just drop the column. Remove the Hush Panel, Tilt Lever, and sometimes you need to have the key in the Run Position and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the column to the lower dash. The switch will now be easy to access. To verify continuity, measure the inputs and outputs with your DVM. That will also verify that's you're getting battery on the input; ie, that there isn't a drop at the Big Connector behind the Battery. Good is no more than .2 volt drop from one side of the switch to the other. You can often cleanup the contacts with some Electrical Contact Cleaner, or just replace it.
By the way is this use of a remote ignition switch typical ? I was always under the impression that the key cylinder itself was the switch.
On two ignition cylinder locks I have replaced - a '93 Dodge Spirit (that was stolen from my wife's parking lot) and recently, an '03 Ford Focus (tumblers were jamming periodically), the electrical switch was separate from the cylinder. In the case of the Focus, the interior end of the cylinder had a half-circular protrusion that fit a corresponding slot on the electrical switch in the steering column.