This is probably a long shot but does anyone have experience with these in the street and race version?

I need to get more camber and I've been looking at options. I've seen a few people install the race version of these but in all the shops I talked to none recommended that for anything but an all out race car. They all suggested the street version with the Clevite bushing. My car is kind of in between. I track it mostly but drive there and don't want to trailer. The race version is metal to metal though it has a zerk for grease.

The other option which I'm leaning toward is offset lower control arm bushings, in poly. I'm really not a fan of poly but in cost this is $100 compared to $500.

In other news I spoke to Global West about their del-a-lum bushings and they won't make them offset.

In other other news I found out about a company called White Line that's making better poly. They do a cross hatch kind of knurled finish to the inside of the bushing so it holds grease better. I used a small cut wheel to make a spiral inside the bushings I made grease-able but I think this knurled idea better.

Any feedback? The people I talked to thought the track time difference would be minuscule with whatever option. The different options seem to be a horse a piece maintenance wise.

 

I am really interested in the response as well. I have got the offset bushings and have maxed out at -2 on one wheel and -2 1/2 on the other, they seem to be holding up. Don't listen to the people that think the track time difference is minuscule, perhaps on street tires they are right but if you can get into the -3 to -4 range on slicks, you would be much faster and GREATLY extend the tire life. Some of the slicks are very square shouldered(Dunlop) and can't tolerate being rolled over during cornering.

 

Oops, by that I meant the difference in parts to achieve the camber gain. For example getting 2° with the race arm verses 2° with the street arm, the track time difference would be minuscule. As long as the extra camber is had, the people I chatted with said the parts didn't really matter.

I like the idea of the race arm, no bushing to tighten at ride height. The Clevite bushing isn't poly and is tightened like the oem bushing. It twists whereas poly rotates. Just looking at the pros and cons.

 

PM Sent

 

Not that anyone would actually make one due to such low volume but i think there is a definate need for a front dropped spindle of around 1 to 1 1/2 inches with the arms on the spindle to put 2 degrees more camber in. It would be a very cool part and allow lowering without screwing up suspension geometry and add camber without offset bushings all in one shot.
Dave

 

I want to know too!

 

poof!

 

Here is an idea for the drop. I am sure you can have someone machine the spindle to get more camber, just like angle milled heads I guess. It wouldnt be much material taken off.

 

I didnt like the way the bushings were on the race arms from SPC, or the cost, so I made my own arms using heim joints.







Not quite finished yet, but close. I have to weld the one clevis to the ball joint plate and then they are done. The only thing about the heim joints is they cannot be at a sharp angle so the ball joint plate is a little wider than stock, requiring 18" wheels.

 

Mind if you poof me too? I'm building a track only car and any info I can get, suspension-wise especially, would be fantastic.

 

what about these roller bearing control arms for guld$trand?

Seems to me roller bearings would be better than poly or whatever else youd want to put in there.

That way itd make the springs and shocks work perfectly.

http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...p?idproduct=49

http://www.vetteweb.com/features/vem...s80/index.html

 

Does anyone know where I can source some adjustable upper control arms with poly bushings? While I know that it's not optiumum, my class rules dictate that I MUST use the same metal to non-metal ratio as stock bushings.

Also, I couldn't find the SPC control arms? Might be interested.

 

I am afraid you have still changed the geometry as the a-arms moved relative to the pickup points. With a dropped spindle all that moves is the wheel bearing..
Dave

 

Hmm, All I see is they lowered thee spring.

 

Looks like welding up higher too.

Ordering the SPC arms, Summit has the street version part 94370 right and 94371 left, for my '88. Corvette places all seem to sell the race version, Guldstrand etc.

Roller bearings would be nice but there is no bushing compliance. Got to laugh at the price too.

 

That upper welding was for this cooling duct

 

 

I decided to just run poly and grind the conical spacers down so the arms can get more camber.

Amazon has the bushings for $64 shipped. Top and bottom for both sides.
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens...5741586&sr=1-1

 

Couldn't you just try removing the shims to gain a couple more degrees with stock arms and bushings?