87 - replacing intake gaskets, please identify this part
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
87 - replacing intake gaskets, please identify this part
Replacing the intake manifold on an '87. All instructions
I've found, when mounting the intake back, is to slowly
lower the intake into place, without moving it fore and
aft (make perfect sense).
The problem is this component (circled in red) - I've
looked in the Haynes manual and can not find what
this is or how to remove it. This component is in the
way of intake - I would have to "slide" the intake
towards the back, underneath this component.
Any suggestions, please?
I've found, when mounting the intake back, is to slowly
lower the intake into place, without moving it fore and
aft (make perfect sense).
The problem is this component (circled in red) - I've
looked in the Haynes manual and can not find what
this is or how to remove it. This component is in the
way of intake - I would have to "slide" the intake
towards the back, underneath this component.
Any suggestions, please?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Remove the components one at a time.
Install your intake afterwards.
If a TPI engine like it appears to me,
Install the unique "T' junction block, oil pressure unit and switch.
Then install the distributor back in.
Install your intake afterwards.
If a TPI engine like it appears to me,
Install the unique "T' junction block, oil pressure unit and switch.
Then install the distributor back in.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The vertical piece is the oil pressure switch and the horizontal (round) piece is the oil pressure sender.
The elbow is threaded into the block as you can see. The hex shaped piece is simply a log for the switch and sender. You could remove the switch and sender, then the log, then the elbow.
As long as the distributor is not installed, they should be easy to re-install after the manifold is in place. It's tight but can be done.
All pieces have pipe thread so make sure you use some pipe thread sealant on the male threads before re-installing
The elbow is threaded into the block as you can see. The hex shaped piece is simply a log for the switch and sender. You could remove the switch and sender, then the log, then the elbow.
As long as the distributor is not installed, they should be easy to re-install after the manifold is in place. It's tight but can be done.
All pieces have pipe thread so make sure you use some pipe thread sealant on the male threads before re-installing
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
unplug it , then you need to separate the different parts, start with the sender on the side, remove that line first, unscrew the sender portion, then unscrew the virtical piece, you may have enough room to unscrew that as a unit, then reassemble in reverse. now would be a good time to replace the sender even if it works . sorry bout the redundency
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
you should not have to remove the oil pressure tree, just did mine on an LT motor, (looks like the same amount of room)
Get your-self an assistant, and rehearse accouple times! Tip the rear slightly, and then lower the manifold down..
Get your-self an assistant, and rehearse accouple times! Tip the rear slightly, and then lower the manifold down..
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Thanks to everyone for the quick responses!! (I've removed
the 2 switches and the log and t-block).
@c4cruiser and @87vette81biggirl ... thanks for the disassembly details.
@desertmike1 ... thanks for the additional photos
@oldalaskaman ... great suggestions on replacing the
sender/switch (es), better to do them now, rather than
in another 500 miles when they fail ... my brother is
off to the parts store to get those 2 units.
This is my brother's car ... first time tearing down a Vette
(although I have 2 '95 Z28's with the LT1). Anyway, assisting
him to replace the intake gaskets. Turns out there was a
coolant leak in-between the head and intake, at cylinder #1,
where the coolant passage is (marked in red) ...
As we revved the engine, you could see the coolant leaking
in-between and pooling up under the bracket (in red).
the 2 switches and the log and t-block).
@c4cruiser and @87vette81biggirl ... thanks for the disassembly details.
@desertmike1 ... thanks for the additional photos
@oldalaskaman ... great suggestions on replacing the
sender/switch (es), better to do them now, rather than
in another 500 miles when they fail ... my brother is
off to the parts store to get those 2 units.
This is my brother's car ... first time tearing down a Vette
(although I have 2 '95 Z28's with the LT1). Anyway, assisting
him to replace the intake gaskets. Turns out there was a
coolant leak in-between the head and intake, at cylinder #1,
where the coolant passage is (marked in red) ...
As we revved the engine, you could see the coolant leaking
in-between and pooling up under the bracket (in red).
Last edited by caldercay; Feb 20, 2011 at 04:27 PM.
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Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
started tearing into the manifold. We've got
the manifold back in, new sending units in,
and the distributor stabbed - will finish up the
rest tomorrow.
Tightening those couple of Torx bolts would
not have mattered much, as the gasket was
already compromised.