I am out here in CA normaly it not very cold out here.

But after the New rebuild I have notice that it run cold.

The outside temps are around 27 in the mornings and 50 in the afternoons.

My water temps are 160 to 170 the oil temp read LOW or 160 or so. at stop lights the oil temps will read low.

Before the rebuild it ran 190 ish range the fans would kick on at 230.

After the rebuild and running the motor in the garage the fans woud kick on around 230 also the water temps were normal the oil temps were lowwer due to the new engine oil cooler that I installed during the rebuild.

Anyone out there know what would cause this.

I also have notice the car starts to miss at a stop light when the oil temps starts reading low temp good oil pressure still around 20 Psi after the car get up to running temps 40 to 50 when cold.

I checked the fans they are NOT always running.

 

is there a thermostate in it, if yes it could be stuck open

 

I change it out this comming weekend I have to pull the intake anyways to fix a oil leak the stupid rubber manifold gasket in front I think poped out I am getting oil down the front of the motor over the right hand side headers arcoss and under the bottom of the car.

The Intake base alone not that bad it just the runners ae a pain and to get them reseal up getting them back on.

It most likley be a all day job Ya me Yes I going to take my time and breaks doing the job.

 

Take those intake end gaskets & throw them away (right out of the box), use rtv like everybody else. Let it set up for a day before running. I dont know why the gasket makers keep putting those gaskets in w/ the intakes, they alway pop out.

 

So what you saying Dont use the rubber gaskets at all just RTV ONLY.

 

Most people use a bead of RTV across the top of the wall. Brakekleen the block and the manifold really well and place a 1/4" bead of rtv (Right Stuff rtv works well) on the wall and carefully put the manifold in place.

 

The factory has not used those gaskets in 25 years. Pitch 'em.

 

Cool will do the fix this comming Saturday let the car set up untill Sunday night before I start it up.

 

As mentioned using those supplied gasket strips for the front and back china walls that some intake gasket sets come with was a mistake. They are crap.

Get a can of Permatex "Right Stuff" and lay a continuous bead on each china wall instead like below. To get the correct width bead don't use the supplied screw on tip. Get the bead straight out of the can.







The key here is to make sure you overlap sealer about 1" under and on top of each corner of the intake gasket on the front and back china walls. You must also set the intake straight down without shifting it to align the bolt holes while the sealer is still tacky. If you stand with one foot on each tire and bend at the waist you can see the intake hole alignment as you lower it down from above to achieve this. Don't forget thread sealer on the intake bolts. Use a known calibrated torque wrench and torque the intake to specs in sequence.

Remember, lay a bead with no breaks or air pockets in it. Sometimes as your laying down the bead the can will "fart" an air pocket and there will be a void or break in the bead that could lead to an oil leak. Make sure you have one continuous bead all the way across with no air pockets and that the china wall surfaces are immaculately cleaned and dry prior to.

 

I already purchased Permatex Ulta gray RTV for the seal job.

I just hoping I can pull the intake with out removing the valve covers we all know how much fun those are to get on with out screwing the gaskets up.

I think I can I know I can pull the intake base with out pulling the valve covers.

 

Change out the intake manifold gaskets do to the oil leak cahn ge out the Therostat out for the running cold Issues.

I have not driven the car yet I just waiting for the ground to dry out some before I take for a drive.

The road leading up to our garage is a dirt road it mudddy now.

Bt Idleing in the garage the water temp got up to 195 to 200 so thats better.

The good new is when I took the distrbitor cap I found out my NEW rotor was comming apart good find if did come apart driving it that could been a bad thing.

 

Thats what I use too, Permatex Ultra Grey.
It will last a long time also.
Cars and trucks I fix, 10 years later when I see them again, no oil leaks.
Been using Ultra Grey since 2000 year.
GM Ultra Black RTV silicone is Good too.
Buy that at your local GM dealership at the parts counter.

 

So far it good I took the car for a short drive today the Water temp came to 205.

The oil temp was comming up to normal before I parked it.

And NO more oil leaks

 

????

So what fixed the running too cold problem? I could not understand your sentences.

 

The new thermostat fixed the temp problem.

The removal and using just RTV for the front and rear intake base manfold seal fixed the oil leaks.

I also was thinking the rear main seal was still leaking but so far after replacing the intake manfold I am not seeing any more oil leaks under the car I keep a eye on this some more.

I started working on the car after work Friday took about 3 hours to jacked up so I dont have to bend over so far and kill my back working of the car also pulled the front tires for the same reasons.


Then torn it down and intake manfold off cleaned up resealed and tourqed down so it could sit over night to give it time for the RTV to set up HARD then put the rest of the car back together.

 

Was it stuck open?

 

The old one looks closed I just might have a very weak spring in it, that caused the issues.

 

LOL
Just my luck BAD.
The New water pump thatt has 500 Miles on it went bad Figuers it leaking out of the weep hole.