Hi I lowered my 93 corvette last summer by cutting the spring rubbers both the middle and end pieces and gluing on the spring wedges. Had a problem of one side of the car being about an inch higher than the other when finished. Yes I did drive it for a while to get front end to drop to ride height.I got two things that might be the problem, one is I broke one of the alum. ft. spring retainers,cracked it really. Spring is still being retained,guess I cut that one too much. I'm kind of at a loss how much to cut the new one though, It's been a long time since I did them before.Can anyone give me an idea how much they had to shorten their alum. retainers when lowering their car? The second possible reason for the problem was given to me by a corvette race shop. They suggested I check if the spring was bottomed out across the top of spring tunnel while sitting on the ground with weight on it. It was flattened right out, they thought this was stiffing up the spring raising one side. They said spring should arc and not touch across top of tunnel between spring wedges. I bought some stock alum.spring shims with the new retainers. My question is how do you get these shims to stay up above the spring? Duct tape them to the spring tunnel? I didn't have these before it was all rubber with thin sheet metal cap that touched top of spring tunnel. Thanks Tim

 

My 84 came with plate spacers betweent the spring and the frame above the retainer. They had 2 holes that the retainer bolts went through. I would replace the spacer on the side of the car that was low. Or if you don't have one, make one up so the wedge rides on the spacer and is held in place by the bolts.

 

I ditched the aluminum shims when I lowered mine. I used the lowering wedges from Mid-America, which are designed to prevent the spring from hitting in the center without use of the aluminum shims. Maybe you cut the rubber mounts too much, allowing the spring to bottom out? In any case, either cut it all the way off and use one of the lowering wedge kits, or put the shims back. As 383vett said, they have 2 holes which the bolts go through. Pretty easy to line up when installing everything; you can slip them in above the spring after you get it roughly into place (from what I can remember).

For the aluminum retainer, you have to remove the spring and get it all fabbed up like it will be installed. The use of aluminum shims doesn't affect the retainer. You cut the legs of the retainer to the same thickness as the spring+rubber mounts, so that it sandwiches the spring to the car, with no play, but at the same time the top of the retainer should contact the frame, without any bolt exposed.

Hopefully that made some sense. I may be able to elaborate if not. Good luck!

 

My car does have the lowering wedges and it still flattens out the spring. I did slightly sand the wedges down a little, not very much though. I saw where others had done this,they are cut down evenly. About shorting the retainers, I wasn't sure if there had to be certain amount of pressure holding the spring up in place. I was worried retainers might bottom out holding spring in place but with so little pressure it might still bounce around. I'll try putting a spacer in just the low side first. I want to get it lowered as much as possible not raise it any more than I have too. Did you guys reuse the sheet metal cap on top of the spring rubber? I didn't see any way to put it back in and didn't think it was needed. Thanks again Tim