C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Final thoughts on driveablity and cam selection

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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Seems like a lot of initial for that cam .
What did your compression end up being?

If it helps any I got some very low speed surge on mine (a carbed motor with a large solid roller) when it started getting a touch on the rich side. Take away fuel and none. Yours can be tuned out Im sure.
I'm taking 2-deg out for tomorrow. That puts it back to 25 -- just like stock.

Does anyone know what target AFR I should be shooting for with a cold start-up? My scans say I'm landing about 10:1 target AFR at 50-deg. If I throw any more fuel at it, I'll be in the 9's. Actually, my other cars smell a bit richer at startup. I get pretty good feedback having sidepipes right below the windows!



Another consideration is IAC steps by coolant temp. Seems like too little and I could end up richer than expected or too many steps could result in leaner than expected AFR. (Maybe I should multiply the stock value by 10% to allow for the increase to a 383, then multiple porportionally for any increase vs stock "IDLE vs coolant temp".
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I'm taking 2-deg out for tomorrow. That puts it back to 25 -- just like stock.

Does anyone know what target AFR I should be shooting for with a cold start-up? My scans say I'm landing about 10:1 target AFR at 50-deg. If I throw any more fuel at it, I'll be in the 9's. Actually, my other cars smell a bit richer at startup. I get pretty good feedback having sidepipes right below the windows!



Another consideration is IAC steps by coolant temp. Seems like too little and I could end up richer than expected or too many steps could result in leaner than expected AFR. (Maybe I should multiply the stock value by 10% to allow for the increase to a 383, then multiple porportionally for any increase vs stock "IDLE vs coolant temp".
With the engine cold, I see no need to go richer that 12:0. 10:0 is on the verge of ring wash.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 03:22 AM
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mine runs very near stoichiometric when cold, I don't think I need it richer, for what? no load so it's not hurting anything. rich; I think is just to keep it alive when cold, I'm giving it what it needs in order to warm up and no more.

driving mode is more important to me.

when i had the stick it idle the same...

if you have the extra coin, go dyno it, and see what she does on paper

Last edited by slickfx3; Mar 3, 2011 at 03:25 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Its not easy to tune for driveability when you are using batch fire injection. With sequential injection and some aftermarket computer like accel dfi you can adjust fuel injector timing.

The reversion or "blowing of exhaust gas into the intake" is a real problem at low rpms. That is why the factory cams have like 117lsa. No one would buy a corvette if it didn't idle right and have good manners.

If you time the injectors to spray when the intake valve is closed you can virtually eliminate cam surge. No matter what you do there will always be a little bit of surge but this is the main cause.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by tpi 421 vette
With the engine cold, I see no need to go richer that 12:0. 10:0 is on the verge of ring wash.
Even stock target AFR is in the 10's at startup. Hard to believe they threw unnecessary fuel during a time-period of heightened mpg pressure.

I also know the theory for PE and a warm motor. Are you sure the same rule applied for a cold motor?

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Mar 3, 2011 at 09:45 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
mine runs very near stoichiometric when cold, I don't think I need it richer, for what? no load so it's not hurting anything. rich; I think is just to keep it alive when cold, I'm giving it what it needs in order to warm up and no more.

when i had the stick it idle the same...
No way a car in neutral idles the same as when it's dropped into "D"rive.

Gee....I wonder why they put chokes on pre-EFI cars? Hmmm....

So Slick...How can you go from pissing all over a 230/236 cam one week to implying you are as happy as a pig in mud?
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
No way a car in neutral idles the same as when it's dropped into "D"rive.

Gee....I wonder why they put chokes on pre-EFI cars? Hmmm....

So Slick...How can you go from pissing all over a 230/236 cam one week to implying you are as happy as a pig in mud?
There is an adjustment to up the P/N rpm , and normally it is 50 rpm higher than in (D); in all the stock bins I have seen, and even I try to make it the same whether in or out of gear, but it better with a little difference, and there is one for AC when ON. I did not say it what it idled in park XXX you just assumed.

I have started cars with chokes that started OK partial vs. full choke many times. what does that mean?, AFR leaner...I gave it what it wanted.


just the facts, I am emotionless here, as in many things, there are favorable aspects and unfavorable aspects, just bc, i ONLY said it idles at XXX, does not mean I have declared forever love and allegiance. Nor was I pissing on anything, I am calm, try it....

Last edited by slickfx3; Mar 3, 2011 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Even stock target AFR is in the 10's at startup. Hard to believe they threw unnecessary fuel during a time-period of heightened mpg pressure.

I also know the theory for PE and a warm motor. Are you sure the same rule applied for a cold motor?
Yeah I know the factory runs some rich A/F ratio's. I think WOT A/F on my C6 is in the low 11's. And if you get your A/F in the low 10's or richer you will start seeing black smoke. But we know there is some power to be had leaning P.E. from the low 11's to at least 12.5. And the factory has to make them extra rich for the people who try to get 100,000 miles out of a fuel filter that is plugged up. Being rich is safe.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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cruise 17-15
idle in gear 14.7
part acceleration 14.3 keeping up with traffic, normal driving, and looking at cute chicks
decel 20-17
half throttle 13.5
full throttle 12.5
kickdown on full throttle from 4th to 3rd on the 700r4, 13.5

wideband dialed in.... priceless
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Last year, I leaned my PE -- kicking and screaming. But, depending on which cell, it's 5-10% lower than stock values. As it looks, I could still lean it further before hitting "ideal" AFR for PE. I'm running in the 12-12.5 range for WOT.

I just got thru cutting fuel in half for a warm start. I also returned to the extreme advance used for factory startup (20° - APYP vs 10° - ARAP). The surge was less prevalent but it seemed more cold blooded.

Guess I'll try more rpms, more start-up fuel, and figure out whether to raise/lower the decay number (if I want to slow decay rate). I'd be shooting for a compromise of richer AFR for the 1st minute or two.

Another oddity....some target AFR for the last minute of open loop went to 16:1. Must be related to my MAP settings at the lowest values. My INT values are in the 130-134 range when less than 1g. The idea is to trim as lean as possible for idling. Of course, closed loop kicks it back up to where it's supposed to be -- stoich.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
cruise 17-15
idle in gear 14.7
part acceleration 14.3 keeping up with traffic, normal driving, and looking at cute chicks
decel 20-17
half throttle 13.5
full throttle 12.5
kickdown on full throttle from 4th to 3rd on the 700r4, 13.5

wideband dialed in.... priceless
Why 14.3 for cruise? Is that for values greater than 100g? I graduated my MAF table so it would slope into PE vs jump from 14.7 to 12.5. IIRC, my "slope" starts at 80g and by 200g it's around 13:1.

If not, that's one area you could improve your mpg. Did you activate your hwy mode? If not, that's another.

Though I'll be pleasantly surprised if I can get mine lower than 800rpm (with factory-like smoothness) or below 1200rpms for cold start-up, I continue to shoot for the holy grail of 17mpg with 30mpg. Right now, I'm about 15mpg with 27hwy.

But, I haven't hit warm-weather season yet. That's another difference between me and you LA guys. It get's COLD here!

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Mar 3, 2011 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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my exhaust lopes and snorts

my engine, hisses from intake

and forged pistons rattle when cold.

the compression popping into my shortie headers

roller rockers sing like a sewing machine.

I can't order drive thru fast food, thy can't hear me talk over my Corvette,

not loud, just personality.....

and you want what?
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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The issue for me wasn't the idle quality but rather the smell of unburned fuel that stuck to my clothes.

This is with a hotcam kit on a 93 lt1 6 speed.

Noone ever told me to expect that.

And that smell was there with a pcmless tune and ed wright tune.

I was told the smell is normal
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tpi 421 vette
Yeah I know the factory runs some rich A/F ratio's. I think WOT A/F on my C6 is in the low 11's. And if you get your A/F in the low 10's or richer you will start seeing black smoke. But we know there is some power to be had leaning P.E. from the low 11's to at least 12.5. And the factory has to make them extra rich for the people who try to get 100,000 miles out of a fuel filter that is plugged up. Being rich is safe.
I know they ran the '85 way rich on cold start, and it has from day one. I wonder if part of it was the uncertainty about fuel quality mixed with uncertainty about the early efi. Open loop is also the fail safe mode so it could be set to run rich for those check engine light moments when people were driving it to the repair shop.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by slickfx3
my exhaust lopes and snorts

my engine, hisses from intake

and forged pistons rattle when cold.

the compression popping into my shortie headers

roller rockers sing like a sewing machine.

I can't order drive thru fast food, thy can't hear me talk over my Corvette,

not loud, just personality.....

and you want what?
For you to pic a different avatar. HP Bushrod beat you to that one!

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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 93VettePilot
Its not easy to tune for driveability when you are using batch fire injection. With sequential injection and some aftermarket computer like accel dfi you can adjust fuel injector timing.

The reversion or "blowing of exhaust gas into the intake" is a real problem at low rpms. That is why the factory cams have like 117lsa. No one would buy a corvette if it didn't idle right and have good manners.

If you time the injectors to spray when the intake valve is closed you can virtually eliminate cam surge. No matter what you do there will always be a little bit of surge but this is the main cause.
93VP: You know...there's always been something about the batch fire technology that bugged me. Though I've always been cognisant of the reversion issue -- with respect to intake/exhaust tuning, I never connected the dots about the contamination of fuel sprayed [out of synch] and waiting to be sucked into the motor.

Now I get it.

I wish I'd read this before the desk-jockey at Bullet talked me out of a 114LSA. (Ron, FWIW, if I made a change, I'd probably do a 210/218 with 114LSA and hotcam lift. It won't happen though.)

Be interesting if they made a sequential conversion that wasn't terribly expensive.

I guess I'll keep playing with less fuel to see what I can accomplish for cold starts. Thanks to TPI-421 and Slick for that heads-up.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
The issue for me wasn't the idle quality but rather the smell of unburned fuel that stuck to my clothes.

This is with a hotcam kit on a 93 lt1 6 speed.

Noone ever told me to expect that.

And that smell was there with a pcmless tune and ed wright tune.

I was told the smell is normal
Exhaust leak?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #38  
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Hmmm....interesting topic. I have a Comp XE256 flat tappet (212-218) that I was thinking of putting in my somewhat stock 85 motor. It is 110 LSA, but I do have the ability (material wise) to do a chip. I do want a fairly decent idle, and was hoping that I could do a decent tune on it. I have the 1-year 85 870 ECM, and there is very little info out there to help with a tune. I am currently running a stock BIN. I'm thinkin' maybe I should go with a 114 LSA cam. My current cam is 112, it idles "OK", but not perfectly smooth. The XE cam comes in a 112, I happened to score the 110 for 20 bucks (new in box).
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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Used a Lunati 256 (213/219) in an Iroc (TPI, flat tappet also) will have to look up the lsa. It idled like a top not rough at all, great cam in a 350 tpi. Dont be concerned about a rough idle
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Dont be concerned about a rough idle
No, that's not really what I'm saying. 110, 111, 112 vs 114LSA,,,it's more with its manners of finnesse I'm addressing here. Mine is just more cold blooded and lacks factory-level torque below 850 rpms. It's a bet that more LSA -- especially with 5.7 rods -- would have helped. (Note: shorter rods have an increasing affect on effective overlap. Longer rods do the opposite.)

More specifically, with only 1/4 throttle, it'll pull like one hundred clydesdales from a dead-stop. Try to finess it in/out of the gargage w/o much gas and it's a hair too easy to stall.

I'm talking a hair. IOW, you can tell it just doesn't want to stay running quite as easily as a stock cam. If I jump it up to 850 and add some advance, it gets better. If I jump it to 900 with another 50rpms of deadband, it's like driving factory chit.

Remember though...stock idle speed for a stick is 650.

It's rough enough you can tell it's not stock too. That part is no where near annoying though. I wish I'd used more split. With it's current manners, I'd take a bit more bubba-la, bubbla-la.

A single pattern cam has a different, less synchopated rythm.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Mar 4, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
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