Okay. My '87 has had this problem since I got it in November, and I am so fed up with it that I need to fix this issue now. I would say that 80% of the time it starts perfectly normal. But then maybe once every other day it will not start - won't make any noise - won't even try to start. Then I let the car sit for a while, and when I come back it starts with no problem.

I've been trying to figure out what it is and I fould this article that explains how to tell if the solenoid is bad. It matches my description of what it is doing verbatim, except mine is intermittant.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5708155_tell...-working_.html

Can it be intermittant and still be the starter solenoid that is the problem?? If so, I think I'm going to go ahead and try to replace it. It only costs $20 (with $10 shipping) from CorvetteCentral.

 

get a 88-up mini starter

 

You'll be even more fed up if you go through all the trouble and expense to change the solenoid or starter/solenoid and find out your problem is VATS/Safety Switch/Ignition Switch/Connector/Wiring related. I'd do a bit more troubleshooting before I decided on a course of action.

 

I'm gonna agree with all three of you. Ray is correct, problem could be other than the solenoid. Jeff is correct in that a mini hi-torque starter is the permanent fix, though the most costly. Lastly OP is most likely correct with his ID of a bad solenoid. My nickle goes to a solenoid from NAPA or other local parts house and go from there.

 

Replacing parts and hoping for the best amounts to a roll of the dice. When the car does not start, use a tester to look for 12v working backwards from the solenoid. But, before you do this, remove and clean both ends and terminals of both battery cables to eliminate them as a possible cause.

 

I am affraid it could be the VATS system. Because: whenever it desides to not let me start the car, you can try to start it over and over, but it is NEVER going to start. You actually have to let it set for about 3-5 minutes. It's like it has to reset itself. Although, I've found that slamming the hood or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cable sometimes works, but rarely. If it is the VATS, not sure what needs to be done to fix it.

 

When it won't start THAT is the time to do some diagnostics. Here is what you should do. Unplug the clutch safety switch and connect a jumper across the socket and measure the voltage on the jumper with the ign sw in crank. If you have 12v and no cranking or solenoid click, then you have to measure the voltage on the solenoid wire at the starter to see if the wiring from clutch sw to starter solenoid is good. If you have an automatic, then unplug the gear selector switch at the base of the shift lever and do the same test. If no 12 v, then remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and locate the 2 wires from above the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector and unplug. Insert ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from the steering column (they come from the ign lock). You should measure the same as the pellet resistance. If more than 4% error, you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a resistor the same value as the pellet across the 2 pin socket in the wiring harness (goes to the VATS module). Another thing to observe is when you hit crank for the first tiime you should hear the start enable relay on the right side of the dash click. If the pellet resistance is off more than 4%, then the VATS module will not close the start enable relay for 6 minutes, but if you disconnect the battery (neg term, its safer) or disconnect the ECM wire from the battery for a minute, the ECM will reset and you can try a crank again. Another problem could be a defective ign sw or wire to the start enable relay and you need to measure the voltage on the wire from the ign sw to the start enable relay to see if it has 12v on it in crank position.

 

if the key is turned on and the vats security light goes out. Why go into any more vats trouble shooting.

 

Show me where the OP made the claim that his VATS light went out. You check VATS out because some part of it isn't working correctly.

 

hook a wire onto the small terminal of the starter solenoid that now has a wire to it (ignore the small terminal with no wire)...run the test wire around the door post and into the cockpit (short-term will not hurt door seal)...hook a 12v test bulb or volt meter onto the test wire and run another wire back to engine to 'ground' (or ground inside the cockpit if you can find one).

watch your 'tester' the for indication of voltage at solenoid during 'no crank' event...'power there' with no click/no crank indicates bad solenoid....'no voltage' sez solenoid/starter OK, look for signal (12v) problem.

starter relay is very common perp, can tested temporary (?) with a 'fold-over' trailer wiring connector to bypass relay at the relay connector, engine will crank/run with bad starter relay 'jumpered', vats problem engine will crank but no start.

 

I did not know there was a VATS light ??????

 

I think it's just the light that says "SECURITY". I haven't noticed if it comes on when I have this problem or not. I think it just does what it is suppossed to do - blink when I stick the key in the slot, before or after I start the car, and stop when I take it out.

 

Bypass the clutch safety switch with a piece of wire to see if you have any more starting problems...I doubt you will. Friend had same problem with his '87. He replaced it and it lasted a few months...cheap replacement from China.

I know it is a safety item...but for some reason...the switch contacts burn out.

 

Correct, no "VATS" light, only a "SECURITY" light and there is no connection to the VATS system on your '87. On your '87, the "SECURITY" is connected only to the UTDS Module and indicates alarm state. When you open the door it flashes to warn you the alarm is not armed. When you arm the alarm, it lights solid.

That's why on an early VATS car, you'd do more VATS troubleshooting if the "SECURITY" light goes out when you turn the key. Because there is no connection between the "SECURITY" light and VATS on these early VATS cars.

I'm not saying your problem is VATS, just that it could be and you'd be disappointed if you changed the starter/solenoid and your problem remained. You've been given top class troubleshooting tips from jfb and Andy (redrose). I'd go through their suggestions and see where I end up.

 

Will do. I'll tell you what I find out.

 

You could say "safety item" or you could say "nanny item". My clutch safety switch has always been disconnected, and so the starter circuit works like all the other stick-shift cars I ever owned. Same goes for my "one-to-four" so-called feature on the trans. That's just the way I like it.

 

Please do.

 

I hear ya, Steve. I bought my car new and bypassed the clutch safety switch in the first year. Been bypassed for nearly a quarter century and I've yet to be killed by it!

 

 

Aren't we the brave and daring ones!!