Bled brakes today. Something aint right.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 1
Bled brakes today. Something aint right.
I used the machine at the shop where you put air into a contraption then squeeze a handle, and it sux air out of the caliper via the line up to the bleeder valve. There was fluid and air coming out for a long time. I finally stopped and went to the other 3 calipers and all were the same. Should little air bubbles have been coming out for over two minutes, right rear first? Left rear not as much, but front calipers kept having air come out. Is it possible it was just pulling air from the fitting you loosen to release the fluid?
I am seriously considering going to Midas or some place like that and paying to have my brake fluid flushed and bled properly. Anyone had them do it?
And please dont ask if I had mushy brakes, or why I did this. I only did this because the fluid was a little dark, and I have C5 front brakes , new rotors, new pads and everything works fine. They have always been a little mushy for the 15 years I have owned this.
I am seriously considering going to Midas or some place like that and paying to have my brake fluid flushed and bled properly. Anyone had them do it?
And please dont ask if I had mushy brakes, or why I did this. I only did this because the fluid was a little dark, and I have C5 front brakes , new rotors, new pads and everything works fine. They have always been a little mushy for the 15 years I have owned this.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 1
Well, the biggest reason I did this was to flush the old fluid. I am sure no air is in there now, but, maybe next time I will use a clamp, and I am going to make this happen within the year.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
Where are you located?Maybe someone on the forum lives near you & can help you.Or gravity bleed the system.Top off the fluid level to the very top.Then open the right rear bleeder.Once the fluid level goes down a quarter of the way,close bleeder & move to left rear & do same.Then do right front followed by left front.After done with all 4,get in car & pump the brake pedal 10 times with key out of ignition.Get out & repeat.It will be throughly bleed.I've done this many times over the years & it works.Just follow all these steps
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,700
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
Sometimes the vacuum will pull air from the hose fitting or even sometimes around the bleeder valve threads when loosened. It has happened to me many times. Make sure the master cylinder remains filled. You should be fine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Sometimes the vacuum will pull air from the hose fitting or even sometimes around the bleeder valve threads when loosened. It has happened to me many times. Make sure the master cylinder remains filled. You should be fine.
Pay no attention to this fine bubbles that come out around the bleeder threads.
As soon as you start pulling new clean fluid through you are all right.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I use the same tool when I flush the brake fluid on all my cars.
You will see thse little bubbles if you don't get a good seal on the bleeder valve or open the bleeder too far.
Here is how I did it Wednesday:
use tool to suck ALL the old fluid out of the master
Pour new fresh fluid in master
Pump breaks a few times
suck the now crummy fluid out of master again
fill master and replace cap
go to the first wheel, set the tool up, pull up and clip the handle
Crack the bleed screw, after a minute check the master, add fluid if needed.
Continue to check until you get clear fluid.
Repeat at the other 3 axles.
Fill master!
Go to the first axle again
Helper pumps brakes up and holds them
use the vaccum bleeder again, crack the bleed screw, when helper has foot on the floor, close bleeder. Do this 3 times per axle unless you ran the master DRY at any point.
If you ran the master dry at any point you may need to do this 6 - 12 times per axle.
I use this method and regularly hit 120 - 130 mph on the back straight at Road Atl and have to brake in 150 - 200 ft down to 50 mph lap after lap after lap.
A flush takes me about 40 min to get to where I need my helper. With the helper it takes another 15 min max.
You will see thse little bubbles if you don't get a good seal on the bleeder valve or open the bleeder too far.
Here is how I did it Wednesday:
use tool to suck ALL the old fluid out of the master
Pour new fresh fluid in master
Pump breaks a few times
suck the now crummy fluid out of master again
fill master and replace cap
go to the first wheel, set the tool up, pull up and clip the handle
Crack the bleed screw, after a minute check the master, add fluid if needed.
Continue to check until you get clear fluid.
Repeat at the other 3 axles.
Fill master!
Go to the first axle again
Helper pumps brakes up and holds them
use the vaccum bleeder again, crack the bleed screw, when helper has foot on the floor, close bleeder. Do this 3 times per axle unless you ran the master DRY at any point.
If you ran the master dry at any point you may need to do this 6 - 12 times per axle.
I use this method and regularly hit 120 - 130 mph on the back straight at Road Atl and have to brake in 150 - 200 ft down to 50 mph lap after lap after lap.
A flush takes me about 40 min to get to where I need my helper. With the helper it takes another 15 min max.
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 1
No difference than when I bought the car in 96.
It has C5 brakes, Hawk Pads, new rotors, stainless lines, new master cyclinder ( one year old with DRM bias spring, put in by DRM), etc etc etc. There has never been a brake feel change through all the changes of pads, rotors, calipers (regular, then Gran Sport from the 96 Vette)...No change.
And I excersized the ABS prior to the fluid change.
It has C5 brakes, Hawk Pads, new rotors, stainless lines, new master cyclinder ( one year old with DRM bias spring, put in by DRM), etc etc etc. There has never been a brake feel change through all the changes of pads, rotors, calipers (regular, then Gran Sport from the 96 Vette)...No change.
And I excersized the ABS prior to the fluid change.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
No difference than when I bought the car in 96.
It has C5 brakes, Hawk Pads, new rotors, stainless lines, new master cyclinder ( one year old with DRM bias spring, put in by DRM), etc etc etc. There has never been a brake feel change through all the changes of pads, rotors, calipers (regular, then Gran Sport from the 96 Vette)...No change.
And I excersized the ABS prior to the fluid change.
It has C5 brakes, Hawk Pads, new rotors, stainless lines, new master cyclinder ( one year old with DRM bias spring, put in by DRM), etc etc etc. There has never been a brake feel change through all the changes of pads, rotors, calipers (regular, then Gran Sport from the 96 Vette)...No change.
And I excersized the ABS prior to the fluid change.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 1
