Burning coolant couple questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Burning coolant couple questions
89 L98 146,000 miles
A short history: Was running very rough, injector impedances tested bad, replaced injectors, dramatic improvement but has gradually deteriorated since. Seems to run a bit rich (smell when starting), starts good cold, but warm have to grind, sporadically idles rough, seems to miss sometimes. It does have a persistent heater core leak that was forcing me to add coolant every couple of months, pretty slow. Over the past 2 weeks deteriorated significantly, now clearly burning coolant, temp fluctuations ... lovely.
Clearly I have stopped driving it but Questions are:
- assuming I can't fix it immediately (like possibly a month or more) is it smart to start it occasionally and let it burn off whatever has leaked?
- if I limp it to the mechanic (about 20 miles) am I likely to do any serious additional damage? assuming I watch the temp and coolant level
- it is coming strongly out of both exhausts, does this tell me anything? (intake/head) especially when first started, but now also when running
I will read the old threads to find tests I should run etc, but in the short term can not devote the time and wanted to check my best 'do no damage' strategy.
A short history: Was running very rough, injector impedances tested bad, replaced injectors, dramatic improvement but has gradually deteriorated since. Seems to run a bit rich (smell when starting), starts good cold, but warm have to grind, sporadically idles rough, seems to miss sometimes. It does have a persistent heater core leak that was forcing me to add coolant every couple of months, pretty slow. Over the past 2 weeks deteriorated significantly, now clearly burning coolant, temp fluctuations ... lovely.
Clearly I have stopped driving it but Questions are:
- assuming I can't fix it immediately (like possibly a month or more) is it smart to start it occasionally and let it burn off whatever has leaked?
- if I limp it to the mechanic (about 20 miles) am I likely to do any serious additional damage? assuming I watch the temp and coolant level
- it is coming strongly out of both exhausts, does this tell me anything? (intake/head) especially when first started, but now also when running
I will read the old threads to find tests I should run etc, but in the short term can not devote the time and wanted to check my best 'do no damage' strategy.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
89 L98 146,000 miles
It does have a persistent heater core leak that was forcing me to add coolant every couple of months, pretty slow. Over the past 2 weeks deteriorated significantly, now clearly burning coolant, temp fluctuations.
Clearly I have stopped driving it but Questions are:
- assuming I can't fix it immediately (like possibly a month or more) is it smart to start it occasionally and let it burn off whatever has leaked?
- if I limp it to the mechanic (about 20 miles) am I likely to do any serious additional damage? assuming I watch the temp and coolant level
- it is coming strongly out of both exhausts, does this tell me anything? (intake/head) especially when first started, but now also when running
It does have a persistent heater core leak that was forcing me to add coolant every couple of months, pretty slow. Over the past 2 weeks deteriorated significantly, now clearly burning coolant, temp fluctuations.
Clearly I have stopped driving it but Questions are:
- assuming I can't fix it immediately (like possibly a month or more) is it smart to start it occasionally and let it burn off whatever has leaked?
- if I limp it to the mechanic (about 20 miles) am I likely to do any serious additional damage? assuming I watch the temp and coolant level
- it is coming strongly out of both exhausts, does this tell me anything? (intake/head) especially when first started, but now also when running
Occasional starting will not help the problem only to keep from rusting up a cylinder if you don't hydraulic lock and hurt the engine further.
Time to get it to a mechanic.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Thanks for reply.
I am thinking of doing the gasket myself (I did the intake gasket before and it was successful for years). Head gasket has never been done, intake gasket has been done twice since 89. Problem is I won't be able to get to it for about a month. In the meantime I want to prevent further problems.
So from your comment it seems I would want to start occasionally to prevent rusting however I have a risk of hydro lock.
I read the following on hydraulic lock: http://www.chicagoengines.com/tech/b...aulic-Lock.htm
It seems the issue is that fluid gets into the cylinder and then on compression - fluid does not compress so well - something has to give.
So I'm in a bit of a catch 22. I want to start to prevent rust, but don't want to start at the risk of serious damage.
Best course is to at least rip it open to get the fluid out of places it shouldn't be and prevent rusting. then I can take some time to put it back together?
Any other advice out there?
I am thinking of doing the gasket myself (I did the intake gasket before and it was successful for years). Head gasket has never been done, intake gasket has been done twice since 89. Problem is I won't be able to get to it for about a month. In the meantime I want to prevent further problems.
So from your comment it seems I would want to start occasionally to prevent rusting however I have a risk of hydro lock.
I read the following on hydraulic lock: http://www.chicagoengines.com/tech/b...aulic-Lock.htm
It seems the issue is that fluid gets into the cylinder and then on compression - fluid does not compress so well - something has to give.
So I'm in a bit of a catch 22. I want to start to prevent rust, but don't want to start at the risk of serious damage.
Best course is to at least rip it open to get the fluid out of places it shouldn't be and prevent rusting. then I can take some time to put it back together?
Any other advice out there?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
agree with head gasket post. Sealant will not help here. make sure coolant isnt getting into oil.(.it will look like brown sludge on dipstick or oil fill hole/cap). I doubt if it is, but check. Yes, if you gotta drive it to the machanic, it can be done but keep close eye on temps , carry extra coolant, keep fingers crossed. If coolant is in oil, dont drive it, have it towed.Hell, have it towed anyway, if hydraulic lock happens (always on start up), you will bend a rod..at best. I usedf to have to remove a spark plug (from leaking cylinder) turn it over and squirt water out of cylinder, reinstall plug, just to drive/start it..NOT recomend you do this. Pulling plugs should tell you which cyclinder is in trouble, the plug may have water on it.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Mar 20, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Thanks, all good advice. i'll tow it rather than f it up, if it's not already.
I got a kick out of "I usedf to have to remove a spark plug (from leaking cylinder) turn it over and squirt water out of cylinder, reinstall plug, just to drive/start it"
Next step was to just push the car around when you had to go somewhere haha.
Thanks men.
I got a kick out of "I usedf to have to remove a spark plug (from leaking cylinder) turn it over and squirt water out of cylinder, reinstall plug, just to drive/start it"
Next step was to just push the car around when you had to go somewhere haha.Thanks men.
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Verdad Gallardo
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: San ANtonio Texas
Pull the oil filter and if it is not a pain, pull the oil pan. It is good to see what you are up against. If you have a lot of water in the motor, your mains are in jeopardy. That means a tear down.
Don't go cheap on the head gasket. Buy the best one Fel Pro makes. And while the heads are off, have the machine shop check them for flatness, even if they are iron. It will not cost much and beats the heck out of doing this all over again.
And while youi are at it, invest $75 bucks in some new ARP head bolts. If you reuse the old ones, you may be doing this again as well.
My best 2 cents worth. Good luck!!!! :>)
Don't go cheap on the head gasket. Buy the best one Fel Pro makes. And while the heads are off, have the machine shop check them for flatness, even if they are iron. It will not cost much and beats the heck out of doing this all over again.
And while youi are at it, invest $75 bucks in some new ARP head bolts. If you reuse the old ones, you may be doing this again as well.
My best 2 cents worth. Good luck!!!! :>)
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 308
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City MO
Here's my take on it FWIW:
Pull the plugs and pull the distributor power wire, spin the engine over with the starter to purge any water that's in the cylinders out. Then use a good fogging oil and liberally spray down the cylinders with it and then put the plugs back in finger tight (just to keep stuff from getting in there) and then let it sit until you're ready to do the gaskets. Do not start it back up - there is no sense in doing that until you can really get heat into the oil and engine (which takes a load to get the oil temps up to where the contaminates will start evaporating or boiling off)
like BevoVette said - check the oil to make sure you haven't mixed antifreeze and oil - if you did then you're likely looking at wiped bearings (since you drove it like this) and you really should consider a complete rebuild since you're going to end up doing bearings (rod/main/cam) and the headgaskets already and that's about 1/2 the cost of the parts for a full rebuild and 3/4 of the labor on your part...
Pull the plugs and pull the distributor power wire, spin the engine over with the starter to purge any water that's in the cylinders out. Then use a good fogging oil and liberally spray down the cylinders with it and then put the plugs back in finger tight (just to keep stuff from getting in there) and then let it sit until you're ready to do the gaskets. Do not start it back up - there is no sense in doing that until you can really get heat into the oil and engine (which takes a load to get the oil temps up to where the contaminates will start evaporating or boiling off)
like BevoVette said - check the oil to make sure you haven't mixed antifreeze and oil - if you did then you're likely looking at wiped bearings (since you drove it like this) and you really should consider a complete rebuild since you're going to end up doing bearings (rod/main/cam) and the headgaskets already and that's about 1/2 the cost of the parts for a full rebuild and 3/4 of the labor on your part...
