Dynomite

I know this has come up before but am not sure if there is another water pump out there that would work for my 90'. The back of stock water pump has a plate and bolts which interfere with the JEGS cast aluminum timing cover (I would say 1/8 inch interference when water pump backing plate bolts are removed).

Is there any water pump with just a bit more clearance on the back side with the same distance to the center of the water pump pully from face of engine

The JEGS Spectre 4935 cast alumimum timing chain cover is extremely nice and sturdy....not tinny

C409

.......... Summit also sells w-pump gaskets that are thick # Sum-G6303 ( .100 I believe ) I used those to space the pump out far enough to clear the aluminum cover ... I don't remember how many I used but I think it was one thick one and one std gasket ( .060 ) but it may have been two thicks ......... works great ............

Dynomite

Great idea...thanks
Yep.....exactly like you said and I would not have guessed Summit has those thicker gaskets.

I assume moving the water pump pully out a tad does not bother as that is on the smooth side of the belt anyway and that pulley looks a tad wider

Calderone

won't affect the pulley alignment ?
i had this problem and installed the stock timing cover back
(later i realized that it didn't matter,its very hard to see)

Dynomite

Does that last statement mean using spacers on the water pump moving the pulley out a tad didn't matter so using thicker water pump gaskets IS a solution?

Just making sure I understand
Thanks

Calderone

Hi Dyno,my only way out was to reuse the stock cover which was thinner
but i still don't care, i can hardly see it

Dynomite

I just do not want to pull the balancer again

Calderone

got ya ! , yes i had to pull it again

rpoL98

i had this problem on a big block, with the cast alum timing cover. solved that problem by driling some countersinks in the water pump back plate, and using allen-head countersunk screws.

those recesses in the alum cover that you show in the photo are supposed to provide clearance for the bolt heads on the back of the water pump, holding the backing plate on. guess they're not deep enough. maybe you could touch them a bit with a porting burr in a die grinder.

or maybe button-head bolts in the back of the water pump might give you enough clearance.

jeffp1167

Just buy some waterpump spacers, if need be have them machined to the thickness you need. End of problem

1/2" spacers

http://www.jegs.com/p/CSR/CSR-Water-...52120/10002/-1

1/4" spacers this ebay seller also has 1/8" spacers to

http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004607...=263602_304662

Dynomite

WOW.....that is slick
Actually all these ideas will work as I just got done taking the water pump back plate bolts out and grinding the heads down about 1/16 inch. I went on Ebay and got the 1/8 inch spacers coming which I like a bit better than just using a thicker gasket........

You guys are super

Thanks

jeffp1167

If pulley alignment is a issue I would think a machine shop could remove a little from the pulley mounting surface of the water pump, or maybe a different GM waterpump pulley would fix the problem if that arrises.

eguyett1985

I'm running an Edelbrock w/p and a Cloyes aluminum timing cover similiar to yours and was able to make it clear by going to buttonhead allen bolts on the rear w/p impeller cover. I think one of them was still kind of close with the gasket in place so I just lightly spot milled the bolt ever-so-slightly then no problem. I would be concerned about spacing the w/p out and maintaining good belt alignment.

Dynomite

It appears that moving the water pump out while tight is doable since that water pump pulley is an underive pulley and a bit wider than the belt I think. It appears if I space out 1/8 inch it is still in line.

I gained 1/16 inch removing the water pump backing plate bolts and taking to a grinder (repainting flat black after re-installation of the bolts)

I will post when I get the spacers and water pump installed

Thanks for all the great suggestions

eguyett1985

Great, sounds like you're on the right track then if the shoulder of the pulley is not touching the edge of the belt you should be just fine.

Dynomite

I ended up after measuring and measuring on my 90' L98 ......using the .100 thick water pump gaskets (one each side) from Summit Racing to gain clearance so the Cast Aluminum Timing Cover from JEGS would clear the water pump (after removing 1/16 inch from the water pump backing plate bolt heads)

After everything was tightened down, I could pass a thin sheet of paper between water pump and front cover (not double thickness)

The belt is approximately 13/16 inch wide and the underdrive pulley on water pump is 1 inch wide so the belt will match the underdrive pulley perfectly even spaced out .100 inch

As rpoL98 suggests in the next post I deleted the Frisbee

rpoL98

you should delete the frisbee...


BTW what brand of headers are those? just wondering...

Dynomite

Great suggestion.....I will remove the frisbee and take new pictures
They are SW Headers

Had to rotate the oil filter housing oil cooler (modified) just a bit on the 90'. Another item (sandwiched oil cooler) I think I will remove

rpoL98

I know this is going off-topic... but anyways:

I also used the SW headers on my 91 C4 (the flanges looked familiar). had a heckuva time getting the pass side installed, but then, my motor was in the car, and mine's have the AIR, EGR fittings (yours don't). actually, on the pass side, it was the EGR pipe that really got in the way, how it stuck out, scraped all along the AC box.

the #4, #6 pipes on the pass side are really close to the fuel supply, return lines, might want to wrap those tubes with header wrap.

on the drivers' side, it was also really close to the brake lines, touching the heat shield which i did some bending on. you should consider polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension inserts for the clam shell) to minimize engine movement, there's not a whole lotta clearance down there by the header tubes, in my case, I couldn't afford any movement, which would've probably resulted in clanging.

I did that for my drivers' side, didn't do the pass side just because it was too much of a PITA, requiring header removal to get to it. sofar so good.

the starter wiring seemed to be kinda close also, and the knock sensor wiring. just be on the lookout for that.

just my 2 cents.

Dynomite

Exactly as you describe......I tried to install the SW Headers with engine installed. I got R done but had to come up from bottom and all clearances were close exactly like you describe.........and thanks for all the great suggestions on SW headers.

I am thinking you did not have that sandwiched oil cooler issue between the oil filter and oil filter mounting on the 91' like on the 90'

I deleted the frisbee for ya http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577267212-post16.html

With wrenches..........not photo shop