L98 water pump clearance
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: South Dakota/California
L98 water pump clearance
I know this has come up before but am not sure if there is another water pump out there that would work for my 90'. The back of stock water pump has a plate and bolts which interfere with the JEGS cast aluminum timing cover (I would say 1/8 inch interference when water pump backing plate bolts are removed).
Is there any water pump with just a bit more clearance on the back side with the same distance to the center of the water pump pully from face of engine
The JEGS Spectre 4935 cast alumimum timing chain cover is extremely nice and sturdy....not tinny
Is there any water pump with just a bit more clearance on the back side with the same distance to the center of the water pump pully from face of engine
The JEGS Spectre 4935 cast alumimum timing chain cover is extremely nice and sturdy....not tinny
Last edited by Dynomite; Oct 22, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,479
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From: Clearwater Florida
.......... Summit also sells w-pump gaskets that are thick # Sum-G6303 ( .100 I believe ) I used those to space the pump out far enough to clear the aluminum cover ... I don't remember how many I used but I think it was one thick one and one std gasket ( .060 ) but it may have been two thicks ......... works great ............
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: South Dakota/California
.......... Summit also sells w-pump gaskets that are thick # Sum-G6303 ( .100 I believe ) I used those to space the pump out far enough to clear the aluminum cover ... I don't remember how many I used but I think it was one thick one and one std gasket ( .060 ) but it may have been two thicks ......... works great ............
Yep.....exactly like you said and I would not have guessed Summit has those thicker gaskets.
I assume moving the water pump pully out a tad does not bother as that is on the smooth side of the belt anyway and that pulley looks a tad wider
Last edited by Dynomite; Mar 30, 2011 at 10:50 PM.
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From: South Dakota/California
Just making sure I understand
Thanks
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,285
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From: South Dakota/California
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Brett Foote
Pro
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From: USA
i had this problem on a big block, with the cast alum timing cover. solved that problem by driling some countersinks in the water pump back plate, and using allen-head countersunk screws.
those recesses in the alum cover that you show in the photo are supposed to provide clearance for the bolt heads on the back of the water pump, holding the backing plate on. guess they're not deep enough. maybe you could touch them a bit with a porting burr in a die grinder.
or maybe button-head bolts in the back of the water pump might give you enough clearance.
those recesses in the alum cover that you show in the photo are supposed to provide clearance for the bolt heads on the back of the water pump, holding the backing plate on. guess they're not deep enough. maybe you could touch them a bit with a porting burr in a die grinder.
or maybe button-head bolts in the back of the water pump might give you enough clearance.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
Just buy some waterpump spacers, if need be have them machined to the thickness you need. End of problem
1/2" spacers
http://www.jegs.com/p/CSR/CSR-Water-...52120/10002/-1
1/4" spacers this ebay seller also has 1/8" spacers to
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004607...=263602_304662
1/2" spacers
http://www.jegs.com/p/CSR/CSR-Water-...52120/10002/-1
1/4" spacers this ebay seller also has 1/8" spacers to
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004607...=263602_304662
Last edited by jeffp1167; Apr 1, 2011 at 12:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,285
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From: South Dakota/California
Just buy some waterpump spacers, if need be have them machined to the thickness you need. End of problem
1/2" spacers
http://www.jegs.com/p/CSR/CSR-Water-...52120/10002/-1
1/4" spacers this ebay seller also has 1/8" spacers to
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004607...=263602_304662
1/2" spacers
http://www.jegs.com/p/CSR/CSR-Water-...52120/10002/-1
1/4" spacers this ebay seller also has 1/8" spacers to
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004607...=263602_304662
Actually all these ideas will work as I just got done taking the water pump back plate bolts out and grinding the heads down about 1/16 inch. I went on Ebay and got the 1/8 inch spacers coming which I like a bit better than just using a thicker gasket........
You guys are super
Thanks
Last edited by Dynomite; Apr 1, 2011 at 01:27 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
WOW.....that is slick
Actually all these ideas will work as I just got done taking the back plate bolts out and grinding the heads down about 1/16 inch. I went on Ebay and got the 1/8 inch spacers coming which I like a bit better than just using a thicker gasket........
Thanks
Actually all these ideas will work as I just got done taking the back plate bolts out and grinding the heads down about 1/16 inch. I went on Ebay and got the 1/8 inch spacers coming which I like a bit better than just using a thicker gasket........
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
I'm running an Edelbrock w/p and a Cloyes aluminum timing cover similiar to yours and was able to make it clear by going to buttonhead allen bolts on the rear w/p impeller cover. I think one of them was still kind of close with the gasket in place so I just lightly spot milled the bolt ever-so-slightly then no problem. I would be concerned about spacing the w/p out and maintaining good belt alignment.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,285
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From: South Dakota/California
I'm running an Edelbrock w/p and a Cloyes aluminum timing cover similiar to yours and was able to make it clear by going to buttonhead allen bolts on the rear w/p impeller cover. I think one of them was still kind of close with the gasket in place so I just lightly spot milled the bolt ever-so-slightly then no problem. I would be concerned about spacing the w/p out and maintaining good belt alignment.
I gained 1/16 inch removing the water pump backing plate bolts and taking to a grinder (repainting flat black after re-installation of the bolts)
I will post when I get the spacers and water pump installed
Thanks for all the great suggestions
Last edited by Dynomite; Apr 2, 2011 at 10:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: South Dakota/California
L98 Water Pump
After everything was tightened down, I could pass a thin sheet of paper between water pump and front cover (not double thickness)
The belt is approximately 13/16 inch wide and the underdrive pulley on water pump is 1 inch wide so the belt will match the underdrive pulley perfectly even spaced out .100 inch
As rpoL98 suggests in the next post I deleted the Frisbee
Last edited by Dynomite; Aug 5, 2012 at 10:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: South Dakota/California
They are SW Headers
Had to rotate the oil filter housing oil cooler (modified) just a bit on the 90'. Another item (sandwiched oil cooler) I think I will remove
Last edited by Dynomite; Apr 6, 2011 at 09:56 AM.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: USA
I know this is going off-topic... but anyways:
I also used the SW headers on my 91 C4 (the flanges looked familiar). had a heckuva time getting the pass side installed, but then, my motor was in the car, and mine's have the AIR, EGR fittings (yours don't). actually, on the pass side, it was the EGR pipe that really got in the way, how it stuck out, scraped all along the AC box.
the #4, #6 pipes on the pass side are really close to the fuel supply, return lines, might want to wrap those tubes with header wrap.
on the drivers' side, it was also really close to the brake lines, touching the heat shield which i did some bending on. you should consider polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension inserts for the clam shell) to minimize engine movement, there's not a whole lotta clearance down there by the header tubes, in my case, I couldn't afford any movement, which would've probably resulted in clanging.
I did that for my drivers' side, didn't do the pass side just because it was too much of a PITA, requiring header removal to get to it. sofar so good.
the starter wiring seemed to be kinda close also, and the knock sensor wiring. just be on the lookout for that.
just my 2 cents.
I also used the SW headers on my 91 C4 (the flanges looked familiar). had a heckuva time getting the pass side installed, but then, my motor was in the car, and mine's have the AIR, EGR fittings (yours don't). actually, on the pass side, it was the EGR pipe that really got in the way, how it stuck out, scraped all along the AC box.
the #4, #6 pipes on the pass side are really close to the fuel supply, return lines, might want to wrap those tubes with header wrap.
on the drivers' side, it was also really close to the brake lines, touching the heat shield which i did some bending on. you should consider polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension inserts for the clam shell) to minimize engine movement, there's not a whole lotta clearance down there by the header tubes, in my case, I couldn't afford any movement, which would've probably resulted in clanging.
I did that for my drivers' side, didn't do the pass side just because it was too much of a PITA, requiring header removal to get to it. sofar so good.
the starter wiring seemed to be kinda close also, and the knock sensor wiring. just be on the lookout for that.
just my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 91
From: South Dakota/California
Installing SW Headers
I know this is going off-topic... but anyways:
I also used the SW headers on my 91 C4 (the flanges looked familiar). had a heckuva time getting the pass side installed, but then, my motor was in the car, and mine's have the AIR, EGR fittings (yours don't). actually, on the pass side, it was the EGR pipe that really got in the way, how it stuck out, scraped all along the AC box.
the #4, #6 pipes on the pass side are really close to the fuel supply, return lines, might want to wrap those tubes with header wrap.
on the drivers' side, it was also really close to the brake lines, touching the heat shield which i did some bending on. you should consider polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension inserts for the clam shell) to minimize engine movement, there's not a whole lotta clearance down there by the header tubes, in my case, I couldn't afford any movement, which would've probably resulted in clanging.
I did that for my drivers' side, didn't do the pass side just because it was too much of a PITA, requiring header removal to get to it. sofar so good.
the starter wiring seemed to be kinda close also, and the knock sensor wiring. just be on the lookout for that.
just my 2 cents.
I also used the SW headers on my 91 C4 (the flanges looked familiar). had a heckuva time getting the pass side installed, but then, my motor was in the car, and mine's have the AIR, EGR fittings (yours don't). actually, on the pass side, it was the EGR pipe that really got in the way, how it stuck out, scraped all along the AC box.
the #4, #6 pipes on the pass side are really close to the fuel supply, return lines, might want to wrap those tubes with header wrap.
on the drivers' side, it was also really close to the brake lines, touching the heat shield which i did some bending on. you should consider polyurethane mounts (Energy Suspension inserts for the clam shell) to minimize engine movement, there's not a whole lotta clearance down there by the header tubes, in my case, I couldn't afford any movement, which would've probably resulted in clanging.
I did that for my drivers' side, didn't do the pass side just because it was too much of a PITA, requiring header removal to get to it. sofar so good.
the starter wiring seemed to be kinda close also, and the knock sensor wiring. just be on the lookout for that.
just my 2 cents.
I am thinking you did not have that sandwiched oil cooler issue between the oil filter and oil filter mounting on the 91' like on the 90'
I deleted the frisbee for ya
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577267212-post16.htmlWith wrenches..........not photo shop
Last edited by Dynomite; Aug 6, 2012 at 04:39 PM.