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Have any of you guys replaced your outer window seals? I have an '89 and ordered new ones, and I was wondering if there is anything I need to know before ripping the door apart. Maybe I don't even need to rip the door apart? Well, please help, because this is really annoying...
i did mine... it's really easy but you do have to take the door panel off. only takes at most 30mins-1 hour per side depending on how fast/slow you are. don't forget the screws behind the door handle etc... you shouldn't have to pull hard on anything except the lil cover that snaps onto the sliding door lock mechanism. make sure you have a drill to drill out the old rivets (don't be too aggressive, you don't want to accidentally drill thru the door), and a rivet gun and some relatively small rivets to rivet the new seal on (because the mounting location is pretty shallow a bigger one won't fit very well). that's it!! anybody else got anything to add?
is there an easy way to get the seal to look as straight as the factory ones? mine look a lil wavy...
don't be afraid
once you get the door panel off it's a piece of cake.
don't be afraid if you have to unplug all the wires inside the door panel, the plugs are all different so you can't put it back together wrong. you may not even have to unplug them at all, i did because i replaced the inner seals too.
you may want to go to a nut and bolt supply house and get some of those nylon thingies that pop into the door that the door panel screws into. sometimes they are called bath tub nuts, but there are other names for them. You can buy them at Pep Boys for $1.69 each, or .16 each at a fastener store. mine were old and brittle and some broke.
hope you ordered GM seals :chevy
don't be afraid
once you get the door panel off it's a piece of cake.
don't be afraid if you have to unplug all the wires inside the door panel, the plugs are all different so you can't put it back together wrong. you may not even have to unplug them at all
When I did mine, I placed a cardboard box on the garage floor just underneath the door panel. I allowed the door panel to "rest" on the box without having to unplug any of the wires. While it is true that all are different it does take time to re-connect everything if you don't do something like "the box under the door panel" trick.
is there an easy way to get the seal to look as straight as the factory ones? mine look a lil wavy...
I did mine about 8 months ago and they looked a little wavy so i took the door panel off and double checked that all of the clips were in the holes and 2 were not. just took it off and made sure that they were all in the holes redid the rivets and looks perfect now.
It is simple but it can be frustrating. I guess my 92 was a little different. When you line up the clamps insure that you place the clamp tip in the center of the hole. I know this may sound stupid to some of the guys that have done this but my holes were elongated not exactly round. I started sliding the first clamp in at the end of the hole and the other holes were not lining up. I had to pull the dam@$ thing up and it made a bruise on the seal. So just be warned. My passenger side was perfect but I may do the driver side over sine the seal has a little warp in it. my seals were $25 from Jeff Coop