my new re-build consists of

new clutch and flywheel

new mild cam
new lifters
new roller rockers
new rods
new bearings
new seals
new springs
plugs and wires
radiator


I am thinking I will turn the key on and off a few times to prime the system. I heard to start it and hold it at 2k RPM's to break in the new cam and seat the rings
Then stop and go driving for a while to break in the clutch and flywheel..

Anyone want to give advise or re-vise me?

Thanks

 

Less time its cranking and quicker it starts the better for priming imo
Fire it up


Break in different opinions.
Onramps, few miles of fwy driving then offramp let the motor decel and slow the car down, keep it out of overdrive.

Put a slight load on it, cruise then decel.

maybe find an open road with no traffic hold it in whatever gear is safe, accelerate up, then back down, seat those rings. Avoid long steady speed cruising for awhile.

Others will pipe in with their likes.

With the fine finishes on walls out there these days dont think theres much of a science to it. Look at new cars, hop in it and drive it like you normally would and they hold just fine. If its super rich get it tuned right away before driving it, very easy to wash down the cyl walls.

 

If you have changed the engine size or done major mods, and are guessing/ hoping the tune in the computer is good, you need to make sure it isn't blowing black smoke and overly rich. There is a narrow window of time at start up for the rings to initally seat. A overly rich condition will wash the rings, and the rings won't seat, and the engine will use oil. If everything is good (No black smoke) then set the timing(L98) get it up to running temp, then dump the oil and filter. This is cheap insurance, and will get all the break in oil and early ring wear out of the engine, and anything else that could have gotten in there. If you have a flat tappet cam, you need to break in the cam, keeping the rpm above 2000rpm, and fluctuating the idle, A roller cam, don't worry about it. Once you know the tune is safe, and looks good at WOT, just drive it how you normally would. I have taken engines to the track with 20 miles on them. If it's a grocery getter, break it in that way. If it's a street/strip or drag car, give it hell! From that point, drive it how you normally would. I believe that if a engine sees alot of cylinder pressure early, the rings will seat quicker, and you end up with better ring seal and longer life. If you granny it, it prolongs the rings seating, and you end up with greater ring wear, and the ring seal won't be as good. I have taken cars to the drag strip with 20 miles on the engine. And they end up running perfect.

 

its an LT1 sorry.

I had it tuned before the rebuild years ago. I already paid for a tune once I finish the rebuild because of the new cam.

I guess I will find out what type of cam I have and go from there.

 

You have a hydraulic roller camshaft, no break-in required.

 

Did you put piston rings in it? (were the new 'rods' actually pushrods or piston rods?)

Since you've got a roller cam and didn't list new rods here's what I do - fire it up, run it up to 1500-1800 or so to watching the gauges to make sure the lube is flowing good and the cam is getting splash lubed and there is enough oil volume to the top end cool the valvesprings - hold it there for 2-3 minutes and then let it idle, go check the engine for leaks, noises, etc. If you've still got the coolant cap off now is the time to top it off / bleed the air. Go for a short drive around the block driving 'normally' and once it's up to temp and you know the thermostat is open park it and double-check for leaks, etc. and then let it cool down - then re-check the coolant levels and oil level.

If it's all good then it's time to drive it, datalog, and get it tuned for the new parts.

 

I assume you used proper engine building protocol and lubed everything as you put it together. COMP Cams says that the first 20 minutes of a cam's life determines the service life and efficiency.

Lifters, cam lobes, rockers and all bearing surfaces should have the proper assembly lube.

Before you crank the engine, prime the engine by driving the oil pump with a priming tool and electric drill placed down the distributer shaft. Prime for a full minute.

Make sure you have good fuel pressure, your initial timing is good and that all electrical connections are good. Multimeter is a good choice for checking circuits. All this because you want that engine to fire right away and begin lubing itself. If you crank and crank and crank without it firing, stop and reprime for one minute. At this point you are in danger of your assembly lube being worn or washed off.

Another hint, after aqssembly add your engine oil through the ditributer shaft. This will keep you from washing off assembly lube by pouring it in the valve cover and sloshing it all over the valve train and cam.

Hope this helps some.

 

I had a shop rebuild the engine for me then I dropped it back in he car. I will get the list from comp as far as whats in there.
I will snap a pic of the sheet and repost it !

 

Good info for a SBC, most doesn't apply to an LT1.

 

so no need to hold RPM at 2k, no need to set timing?

Just turn key a couple times to prime the system and start her up. Then just drive it.

I was wondering why it would be any different than driving a new car.

I was thinking when people test drive new cars they only have a couple miles if that and they let you do what you want. I was thinking it MIGHT be different because of the cam but I have a roller type cam I guess which doesn't need breaking in...

 

I just had to redo my 396LT4 motor. When it was on the stand I primed the motor and made sure there was oil at all rockers. Then I finished reassembling the motor and installed it with the new tranny and rear.

Once the install is done, I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel rail, then start the motor. If it starts right up I just play with the gas till it smooths out, check all gages and make sure oil pressure is good. Then I check the coolant level and top it off then put the cap on while its still running. I then look to make sure there are no leaks.

I usually heat cycle the motor a few times before I drive it and make sure all fluid levels are good. Then once around the block and about a mile drive then back on the lift to check for leaks or anything wrong. Check with scanner if everything is reading ok.

Then I take it on the highway varying the speed and rpm for a while. I might roll into the throttle a little heavy on the highway a little at a time. Going pretty fast then letting the car slow down on it's own after about 100 miles.

Then at 350 miles, (no smoke no leaks) I went to ETown and made some easy runs in the 11.20s. (7 passes took runnerup in 11.50 class) Went to a second race and made a few (6 ) more passes with the throttle stop trying to run only 11.50's. Now I need to heat it up and dump the Joe Gibbs break-in oil and filter, and then beat the living hell out of it!!

 

First things first....set up a video camera so we can see and hear

 

At first fire-up, have an assistant sit in the car and watch
the temperature gauge. Years ago I had a Pontiac 400
(in a Firechicken) built to stock spec. It got setup with
a retarded spark. It went from first fire-up to boiling
over in about five minutes. No damage done, but it
scared the crap out of me when it blew and could have
burned me if it had happened about ten second later
(I was just getting set to hook up the timing light).

Assistant should also watch the oil pressure.

 

You'll want to make sure the timing is close - if you look at the HEI distributor and pickup coil and put the engine at TDC then line up the reluctor just barely past the points pointing at one another and the timing will be real close. I've done it that way on most all the electronic distributor cars I've rebuilt engines in and the one I just did in mine was just less than 2* off from spec. If you're not thinking you're going to get that close then pull the connector and check timing right away when you fire it up.

If you had a shop build the engine then I'm assuming they did a full rebuild and ring break-in will be in order - I use the procedure I found with a set of molly rings a long time ago (interesting nothing in the last 15+ years that I can recall has had instructions on breakin) - basic premesis was break in the cam (flat tappet era) with the 18-2200 RPM 15-20 minute run, let cool, go to a deserted road and in 3rd gear accelerate from 1800-4500 at WOT (or up to ~80% of 'redline') and then brake and repeat 7-10x - have done it in dozens of engines in car/trucks, race karts, boats, and circle track engines and have never had high leakdown %'s, oil consumption issues or blowby. The only adjustment I made is that with modern engines the flat tappet cam break in run is no longer needed - I just run it for a few minutes to double-check the work before doing the ring break-in.

 

I don't know how to prime the oil system. I have the motor buttoned up already. All I have left is pass side injector clips and some wire connecting and coolant hoses and i'm ready. So is there an easy way to prime the oil system without taking anything apart? Can I grab a socket and wrench and hook onto a harmonic balancer bolt and just turn the crank shaft a couple rotations?

I am soo excited !!

I forgot I have to add trany oil. I am thinking about putting the front back on jackstands, loosening the check screw and then adding (2.2quarts?) into the fill hole.

I would love to check when on level ground but thats not going to happen in MY garage.

 

It's an LT1, doesn't have a conventional distributor.

 

Derek, pull the fuel pump fuse and the coil wire, then crank the engine over like you are trying to start until you see oil pressure. Replace the fuse and reconnect the coil wire, cross your fingers and fire it up!!

 

Alright this sounds like I can handle it.... here goes

Pull the fuel pump fuse
pull the coil wire
crank until I see oil pressure rise
connect coil wire, replace fuel pump fuse
fire it up
check for leaks
take it for a short but to operating temp drive
let it cool
check for leaks
drive it to the shop for a tune.....