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Since the 4l60e shifting is electronically controlled, the only thing you have to do is take the old one out and put the new one back in. Just make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
You might want to consider getting a new torque converter as long as you have the tranny out.
Disconnect the negative battery cable (don’t skip this step)
Drop pan and drain transmission, reinstall, pan with a couple of bolts
Remove starter and flex plate cover
Remove torque converter bolts, push converter back
Disconnect shift cable and unplug wiring
Mark driveshaft and differential yoke for index
Disconnect drive shaft at diff, pry forward.
Secure U joint caps with electrical tape, then pull left and back
(may require bending heat shields to remove)
Support transmission with trans jack
Remove two C beam bolts at trans extension housing
Remove or loosen C beam bolts at differential
Pry trans to left to clear C beam and lower slightly (will take effort)
Disconnect trans cooler lines using flare wrench while holding trans fittings
Use a long extension and flex socket to remove bellhousing bolt holding fill tube, remove tube from trans by pulling up
Support rear of engine with separate stand
Remove remaining bellhousing bolts
Pry trans back to clear dowels and lower
You might want to consider getting a new torque converter as long as you have the tranny out.
Transmission is a Jasper rebuilt, and we are installing a new torque converter.
Originally Posted by toptechx6
This is the sequence I recall, hope it helps
Disconnect the negative battery cable (don’t skip this step)
Drop pan and drain transmission, reinstall, pan with a couple of bolts
Remove starter and flex plate cover
Remove torque converter bolts, push converter back
Disconnect shift cable and unplug wiring
Mark driveshaft and differential yoke for index
Disconnect drive shaft at diff, pry forward.
Secure U joint caps with electrical tape, then pull left and back
(may require bending heat shields to remove)
Support transmission with trans jack
Remove two C beam bolts at trans extension housing
Remove or loosen C beam bolts at differential
Pry trans to left to clear C beam and lower slightly (will take effort)
Disconnect trans cooler lines using flare wrench while holding trans fittings
Use a long extension and flex socket to remove bellhousing bolt holding fill tube, remove tube from trans by pulling up
Support rear of engine with separate stand
Remove remaining bellhousing bolts
Pry trans back to clear dowels and lower
Great write-up. Exactly what I was hoping to find. Thanks!
Originally Posted by PLRX
Using the FSM will allow you to find the answer that could take you half a day to find here.
Buy the FSM is worth every penny.
I have a set of FSM's for my '01 C5.......absolutely worth every penny.
The '94 that we're working on is a friend's recent purchase.
The hard part is getting the exhaust out of the way. 94 has huge cats and the supports are held by the bellhousing bolts. I think there is a trick to it but cant remember, its been a year.
The hard part is getting the exhaust out of the way. 94 has huge cats and the supports are held by the bellhousing bolts. I think there is a trick to it but cant remember, its been a year.
Yeah, duh! :o That should have been second on the list above, must have gone AWOL during cut and paste, thanks for your help.