C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Loose Rod Bolt...question....

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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 02:24 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (WINNER)

Well, I took the valve covers off and I didn't notice any broken rocker arms or anything. I pulled the plug wires one at a time, and I actually didn't notice a difference on one of them (the clanging was the same, but the car actually still idled the same as before). So I may just pull the heads and inspect the valve train. (That's easy enough, since I need to put some good heads on it anyway.) I was THINKING it may have been a bad valve, but that's too easy for my luck... It SOUNDS like it's coming from the passenger side bottom end...would a valve sound like bottom end?
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 02:28 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (TIMSPEED)

Hmm, 87, weird bottom end noise, maybe you have your own mystery bolt!!!! Might as well drain the oil and inspect it.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 02:48 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (Fastguy)

This isn't on my vette, it's on my 75 Chevy truck. Stock motor...176k miles on it. (Not very many really, for a 75, sorry for not clarifying)
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 05:41 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (TIMSPEED)

This isn't on my vette, it's on my 75 Chevy truck...
... :cuss ...

OK; I add my vote to a broken flex plate...

But since you can just toss the motor and buy another $200 junker for the motor, why are you wasting all this time on it???
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 06:02 PM
  #25  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (Rich B.)

$200 junker motor? I'd like to know where. if I BUILD a new motor, it's going to be fully forged stroker style. I'm gonna pull the flexplate and torque converter OFF aswell as the heads and check everything out. I've been told that it's DEFINETALY bearings though, but I HIGHLY doubt that.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (TIMSPEED)

Check your lifters. You can simply pull the intake with pulling the heads to inspect them. I had a lifter go bad this past weekend and I was swearing it was a bearing that let loose. I was happy to find that it was the lifter. Now I am pulling the head (the solid lifter is too long to pull all the way out) to see if there is a problem with my cam as well. I think my cam is toast too.

You don't want to run it too much until you find out where the noise is originating. You will do more harm than good by doing so.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 06:37 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (TIMSPEED)

$200 junker motor? I'd like to know where...
You are joking, right? There's dozens of them in the local AutoTrader (Western New York). I have a SBC 4-bolt main 350 motor from a Chevy 9-pax school bus (van) that cost me $20 complete...(that's twenty, not two hundred)...
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 09:55 PM
  #28  
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Default Re: Loose Rod Bolt...question.... (TIMSPEED)

Bearing noise etc usually make distinctive sounds depending upon with bearing is bad. Rod bearings knock the loudest when you are decelerating. Main bearings knock at idle and get worse under load. Piston pins double knock at idle and when accelerating or decelerating. Lifter usually tick when they have problems. Check your harmonic balancer since it can cause knocking sounds when it falls apart also. You might pull the valve covers to see if a rocker arm has fallen off. Intake ones will cause irratic idle. Exhaust ones will make the car run like crap.



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