C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

87 headlight motor

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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by redrose
me, neither.

'cutting the mica' was in response to your 'weak motor' complaint, and should work for motor speed/power...but my best guess for 180* motor op is still 'a gremblim' in the elec scene...'brush' wiring inside motor worries me, sadly was last century when that game was most recently played here and C.R.S has taken control.
Understood..
.C.R.S. is extremely contagious for those past "middle age"

The real bummer for me is that I've seen this before, 20 yrs ago, and solved the problem....I just cannot remember what or how.

The motor power/speed is not horrible now, but it's not as good as new. I'm guessing at this point that its too soft to work the HTS properly. I could be completely off course, since the motor does change direction with the lite switch on/off but it won;t run in sync or trip the stops,...

again, I dunno.

This is one of those deal that I need to walk away from for a few days and find where I laid my perspective and get it back!
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #22  
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With the motor open up, you will see a large spring on the end with the manual control ****. If this spring is not in the proper groove, the spring will not allow the motor to function properly and move the contacts on end of travel. Its very easy to get the spring in the wrong groove. If the spring is sitting next to the plastic guide close to the manual control ****.....its not correct.

I had this same problem on my 87 after I rebuilt the motor. I screwed up and did nto place the spring correctly.

8Valve
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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Problem solved....
for now.

After letting this "rest" for a few days, I tool it apart AGAIN with the intention of filing the mica and finding a solution to the reversed poliarity issue.

Those that understand how the HTS works with the breaker points on either side, will see this as obvious...

As the points wear, they get closer and also become softer as the spring tension is reduced. One side was loose enough to show continuity, but when the armature was turning it would break that set of points, thus sticking the armature 180degree out of phase.
I bent the contacts so that they were further away from the lever and stiffer on the spring.....viola!
the motor is in sync again...simple. Forest Gump simple, actually.

Not willing to ruin a perfectly good achievment, I secured the mounting bolts and walked away...

Tomorrow if it still works right, I'll install the headlite cover and complete the work.

Thanks to all those that responded with their ideas and suggestions.
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