So I can pressure test it see where its leaking? I've always just done both gaskets at the same time.

guess you can get by with just doing 1 side?

 

To me it makes no sence to just do one side, not that much more work as long as it's apart. Whike you are in there bepending on age of the other things you might take a look at those also

 

NO NO NO!
Please don´t just do one side. You need to disassemble everthing anyway.
The other gasket is just a couple bolts away and might be on its way too due to the previous overheating.
And the new one and old gasket might have different thicknesses resulting in slightly different compression ratios.

And check BOTH heads for warpage or you will be doing the job again.
While you in there, you could consider to change some parts while your in. I did 1,6 Roller rockers, new pushrods, new EGR, and waterpump.
I wish I had done the timing chain the same time as the engine was already torn down. Had to remove the water pump when I did the TC later on....

 

hahaha, ok thats what I was going to do anyways, but when yall started about pressure testing it, got me confused as to maybe you only do 1 side.

I will be doing both sides anyways.

Is there anything I can do while this is apart to add some horsepower and wake it up a little?

 

Yes.
They can blow and not involve the oil system at all. Bubbles in the radiator are a dead give away.
Pressurizing the radiator with exhaust ( basically engine compression)is the next clue . It may run ok because its not sucking water in before combustion..
The other really bad news is that this can just as easily be a cracked head. There is no way of knowing until tear down.
Next would be pulling plugs one at a time to see which effects the bubbles OR you can do a compression ck on each cyl until you find one that does not pump up well...
I'd start at #7 and work back on that bank to 5-3 and 1. The #7 is notorious for a weak head gasket area. Besides, thats the easy side...50/50 chance you get lucky.
The other side, take the wheel well liner out and you will have better access. If you're really lucky, you'll find a plug thats got droplettes on it from water seeping back into the cylinder. So far the compression is greater than the water pressure...thats why the exhaust is in the radiator. As it sits the water might go in due to pressures equalizing. A plug should show signs.

Not trying to be a jackass with the viper comment, but a purest I am and always will be. If I had a pile of money I'd probably have one of everything


...and 6 or 8 Corvettes

It's heritage and it's being a living, breathing piece of Americana by owning and driving a Corvette.

Good luck.

 

Sure...
you might be buying heads....if thats the case, buy NICE ones. The heads are the single biggest limiting factor in the C4 TPI motor.

 

As for waking it up a little, the 1.6 ratio RR were a great improvement. New timing chain depends on miles on the engine I´d say. A stretched one costs hp.

If you really want to tune it, think about better flowing intake manifold/runners. Maybe even a cam but you would need a tune afterwards. The 1.6 RR work fine with the stock tune btw.

I also had my valves done while the heads were off. Basically I had a complete overhaul on the heads but kept the old valves as they were good. I used LT4 springs with the new Roller Rockers as recommended.
Combine this with a genereal tuneup (plugs, wires, distr. cap n rotor, PCV) and you should be good to go...

 

One can only hope.... but everyone is correct.. do both!

It was a a lotta years between my 59 and my 91 vettes, but I gotta say.. Pre 80's Mopars gave me a lot of fun inbetween...

 

I would think since the heads are aluminum, I would have a better chance of just warping them instead of cracking them

 

I hear yall keep saying to pressure test and see where its at, but honestly does it really matter now? Gotta replace both anyways.

 

Most likely they are just warped, if at all. But they can crack....
Basically you can skip the pressure test as you can see the exhaust fumes in the coolant.
I would only do the pressure test if the headgasket is in doubt, but here its almost certain.

 

You can also have the heads checked for cracks to be on the safe side.

 

Only reason I suggested a pressure test was to confirm which side and give a little closer check of that head.. I wouldn't replace one without doing the other....

 

pretty much.

its more habit of going thru the motions because there is often some doubt as to what is going on.. In this case,there is absolutely no doubt, IMO. You can short cut directy to the repair since heads have to come off to get to gaskets. Given the symptoms, further diagnostics are kind of pointless..

While you have it apart, long tube headers would be a great upgrade. install there, have it hauled to a shop for the collector fitment to the Y-pipe.