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I have a 94 coupe with 70k. When doing a fast shift first to second I get a crunch. This is not a problem with any of the other gears. I would never try a wot power shift. I am afraid I have a syncro problem but for now do not want to rebuild the trans since this is just a driver and I don't race.
I had mobile 1 10w30 in the trans but assumed it was too slippery so I changed to Pennzoil Syncromesh. Pennzoil says on the label compatible for GM 12345349. This helped very little. I was wondering if anyone has gone from the thin 5w-30 oils to the thick Castrol tws 10-60 and found this to help a 1-2 shift crunch.
Since I can fast shift any of the other gears I don't think it's clutch related.
I have a 94 coupe with 70k. When doing a fast shift first to second I get a crunch. This is not a problem with any of the other gears. I would never try a wot power shift. I am afraid I have a syncro problem but for now do not want to rebuild the trans since this is just a driver and I don't race.
I had mobile 1 10w30 in the trans but assumed it was too slippery so I changed to Pennzoil Syncromesh. Pennzoil says on the label compatible for GM 12345349. This helped very little. I was wondering if anyone has gone from the thin 5w-30 oils to the thick Castrol tws 10-60 and found this to help a 1-2 shift crunch.
Since I can fast shift any of the other gears I don't think it's clutch related.
Has anyone replaced this synchro in their garage? I here this is a complex transmission.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Originally Posted by rjrjs
I have a 94 coupe with 70k. When doing a fast shift first to second I get a crunch. This is not a problem with any of the other gears. I would never try a wot power shift. I am afraid I have a syncro problem but for now do not want to rebuild the trans since this is just a driver and I don't race.
I had mobile 1 10w30 in the trans but assumed it was too slippery so I changed to Pennzoil Syncromesh. Pennzoil says on the label compatible for GM 12345349. This helped very little. I was wondering if anyone has gone from the thin 5w-30 oils to the thick Castrol tws 10-60 and found this to help a 1-2 shift crunch.
Since I can fast shift any of the other gears I don't think it's clutch related.
rjrjs,
I've only used the Castrol TWS 10-60 but when I first used it, it did make a nice difference in the shifting. Our 94 with the TWS shifts nicer than our 2000s (the 2000s both use automatic tranny fluid).
Also, every lubricant has different additives and friction effects so since ZF recommends the TWS, suggest trying it, but be sure to give it a couple of thousand miles and maybe even another fluid change before deciding (don't forget to change it every 10-12k nonetheless).
However, I would not rule out a problem with the clutch system because it shifts ok between the other gears. Just a minor deficiency of the hydraulics can prevent the clutch from full disengagement, and generally most trannys shift easier between the higher gears than lower gears.
Suggest reading info on zfdoc.com and consider at least flushing/bleeding the clutch system to see if it helps before considering a rebuild.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
rjrjs,
I've only used the Castrol TWS 10-60 but when I first used it, it did make a nice difference in the shifting. Our 94 with the TWS shifts nicer than our 2000s (the 2000s both use automatic tranny fluid).
Also, every lubricant has different additives and friction effects so since ZF recommends the TWS, suggest trying it, but be sure to give it a couple of thousand miles and maybe even another fluid change before deciding (don't forget to change it every 10-12k nonetheless).
However, I would not rule out a problem with the clutch system because it shifts ok between the other gears. Just a minor deficiency of the hydraulics can prevent the clutch from full disengagement, and generally most trannys shift easier between the higher gears than lower gears.
Suggest reading info on zfdoc.com and consider at least flushing/bleeding the clutch system to see if it helps before considering a rebuild.
I have a 94 coupe with the ZF 6-speed, and it shifted fine, until I had a Hurst short shifter installed in the car. Now I get a condition, every once in awhile...where the shifter hangs up, between first and second gear. I have to push and pull it in several directions, before it will go into second gear. The same condition has happened before in the 3rd to 4th shift, but not as frequent. I was told there is no external shifting linkage to adjust, so what ever is going on, happens on the inside.
I have looked a zf.doc.com site, and there they say that something like 80% of transmission problems are caused by the clutch. The master or servo wears, and isn't fully releasing the clutch between shifts. So now I'm wondering if I should replace the master and servo units first?
I've only used the Castrol TWS 10-60 but when I first used it, it did make a nice difference in the shifting. Our 94 with the TWS shifts nicer than our 2000s (the 2000s both use automatic tranny fluid).
Also, every lubricant has different additives and friction effects so since ZF recommends the TWS, suggest trying it, but be sure to give it a couple of thousand miles and maybe even another fluid change before deciding (don't forget to change it every 10-12k nonetheless).
However, I would not rule out a problem with the clutch system because it shifts ok between the other gears. Just a minor deficiency of the hydraulics can prevent the clutch from full disengagement, and generally most trannys shift easier between the higher gears than lower gears.
Suggest reading info on zfdoc.com and consider at least flushing/bleeding the clutch system to see if it helps before considering a rebuild.
the castrol bmw crap made my zf shift like crap causing grinded gears, and even the shift lever to physicaly not move into the next gear during some wot runs (like at drag strip).
I started by replacing my clutch hydraulics.
zfdoc told me id have to pay thousands to get my trans rebuilt.
I simply put the stock stuff (its recommended syncromesh replacement) back in and it fixed everything.
I dont care what zfdocs experiments try to prove. BMW motor oil is not whats meant to go into our transmission. It doesnt have the proper additives and is too slippery.
I have a 94 coupe with the ZF 6-speed, and it shifted fine, until I had a Hurst short shifter installed in the car. Now I get a condition, every once in awhile...where the shifter hangs up, between first and second gear. I have to push and pull it in several directions, before it will go into second gear. The same condition has happened before in the 3rd to 4th shift, but not as frequent. I was told there is no external shifting linkage to adjust, so what ever is going on, happens on the inside.
I have looked a zf.doc.com site, and there they say that something like 80% of transmission problems are caused by the clutch. The master or servo wears, and isn't fully releasing the clutch between shifts. So now I'm wondering if I should replace the master and servo units first?
Any suggestions??
If you are running the castrol bmw crap in your trans get rid of it and switch back to the gm recommended fill (the 5w-30 based prod. no longer available, but there is a recommended gm syncromesh which works fine).
the hurst shifter is a high quality piece, so I doubt thats the issue.
Also consider bleeded your master/slave and replacement as well.
I tried to go to ZF.doc and it says account suspended. What does this mean? Is it suspended or am I suspended?
Originally Posted by Vintagevetter
I have a 94 coupe with the ZF 6-speed, and it shifted fine, until I had a Hurst short shifter installed in the car. Now I get a condition, every once in awhile...where the shifter hangs up, between first and second gear. I have to push and pull it in several directions, before it will go into second gear. The same condition has happened before in the 3rd to 4th shift, but not as frequent. I was told there is no external shifting linkage to adjust, so what ever is going on, happens on the inside.
I have looked a zf.doc.com site, and there they say that something like 80% of transmission problems are caused by the clutch. The master or servo wears, and isn't fully releasing the clutch between shifts. So now I'm wondering if I should replace the master and servo units first?
I have seen new ZF trannys for sale for $1500. I dont know if they are the blue or black label or what difference it makes.
My 4+3 second gear syncro occasionally grinds especially when its in OD. I just dont do a fast shift from 1 to 2 and really watch the OD. Just take it easy with yours and it should last a while.
I would put the lube GM recommends in the tranny. This could turn out to be another motor oil, gas grade or type of wax thread.