Engine Removal Question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
Engine Removal Question
Do to a cracked block I’m forced to replace the engine in my 89. I have a semi built 400 standing buy for this project.
I’m a one man band so I need to know the easiest way possible to do it.
The main question is do I need to totally remove the transmission or can it stay in the car supported by a floor jack?
Any help with this project is greatly appreciated as I have never done this with a Corvette and it’s been several years sense I have done it at all. Thanks in advance!
Forgot it has an auto transmission.
I’m a one man band so I need to know the easiest way possible to do it.
The main question is do I need to totally remove the transmission or can it stay in the car supported by a floor jack?
Any help with this project is greatly appreciated as I have never done this with a Corvette and it’s been several years sense I have done it at all. Thanks in advance!
Forgot it has an auto transmission.
Last edited by My1st; Apr 24, 2011 at 10:50 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
Do to a cracked block I’m forced to replace the engine in my 89. I have a semi built 400 standing buy for this project.
I’m a one man band so I need to know the easiest way possible to do it.
The main question is do I need to totally remove the transmission or can it stay in the car supported by a floor jack?
Any help with this project is greatly appreciated as I have never done this with a Corvette and it’s been several years sense I have done it at all. Thanks in advance!
Forgot it has an auto transmission.
I’m a one man band so I need to know the easiest way possible to do it.
The main question is do I need to totally remove the transmission or can it stay in the car supported by a floor jack?
Any help with this project is greatly appreciated as I have never done this with a Corvette and it’s been several years sense I have done it at all. Thanks in advance!
Forgot it has an auto transmission.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 583
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
Thanks cumbercr, I pulled the intake (HSR) so those top two bolts seem to be accessible.
I totally forgot there were only three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate; it has been a long time at about 30 years sense I’ve pulled a motor and that was my 1965 Olds 442 track car. Almost forgot how much fun it is.
Thanks for the info you made it sound much easier not having to remove the transmission.
I really thought after doing the HSR and dual exhaust with no pollution crap I would be on the road.
It sure sounded good when I started it up but then I found the cracked block.
I totally forgot there were only three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate; it has been a long time at about 30 years sense I’ve pulled a motor and that was my 1965 Olds 442 track car. Almost forgot how much fun it is.
Thanks for the info you made it sound much easier not having to remove the transmission.
I really thought after doing the HSR and dual exhaust with no pollution crap I would be on the road.
It sure sounded good when I started it up but then I found the cracked block.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
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From: Bowling Green Kentucky
I pull the trans.
Lowering it allows for easy access to the bellhousing bolts.
Only a few extra bolts to completely pull it.
Once it is out, you have the opportunity to swap all of the external trans seals while on the bench, and inspect the u-joints.
Hood on, then pull out the passenger side of the car.
AC stays connected (no drain needed) as well as the PS pump.
Last thing you want to deal with is a leaky front pump seal, after the engine goes back in.
Lowering it allows for easy access to the bellhousing bolts.
Only a few extra bolts to completely pull it.
Once it is out, you have the opportunity to swap all of the external trans seals while on the bench, and inspect the u-joints.
Hood on, then pull out the passenger side of the car.
AC stays connected (no drain needed) as well as the PS pump.
Last thing you want to deal with is a leaky front pump seal, after the engine goes back in.
Make sure you remove your distributor before pulling the tranny, because it's possible for the motor to shift back and pin the dist.
Also I remove my exhaust to begin with.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
I did mine alone as well.
I actually removed the intake,heads and accessories on the front. removed the flex plate bolts.
Removed the front tire to get the crane in. Bolted up the leveler to the block then removed the mounts. Raised up a little on the crane and worked the tranny up little by little with a floor jack. I worked it up until the tranny was angle upward to the firewall. You will find it will end up just about touching the firewall. Once I got the block to break free I finished raising the block out. Went back and replaced the floor jack that was used on the tranny with some solid concrete blocks. (Floor jacks will sometimes settle).
By removing the heads it made it much easier to get to the bolts and with a one man show I think its easier. Be sure to remove the TC when the block is out and you might just well replace the tranny seal while its apart.
I do have a video on my you tube upon its removal.
Good luck you can do it. Just take your time.
I actually removed the intake,heads and accessories on the front. removed the flex plate bolts.
Removed the front tire to get the crane in. Bolted up the leveler to the block then removed the mounts. Raised up a little on the crane and worked the tranny up little by little with a floor jack. I worked it up until the tranny was angle upward to the firewall. You will find it will end up just about touching the firewall. Once I got the block to break free I finished raising the block out. Went back and replaced the floor jack that was used on the tranny with some solid concrete blocks. (Floor jacks will sometimes settle).
By removing the heads it made it much easier to get to the bolts and with a one man show I think its easier. Be sure to remove the TC when the block is out and you might just well replace the tranny seal while its apart.
I do have a video on my you tube upon its removal.
Good luck you can do it. Just take your time.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 2
From: California City Ca
Pulled and Installed mine by my lonesome also.
Pull the valve cover off gives you little more room also helps keep from hitting the windsheild wiper motor cover.
Pull the valve cover off gives you little more room also helps keep from hitting the windsheild wiper motor cover.
Last edited by Marv02; Apr 26, 2011 at 07:18 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
remove the trans and have it sitting on a trans jack under the car. when the engine is out, the trans will come out in the area that you took the engine from, and then you can hoist it out. you don't have to slide it out the bottom some way, but if you do, tip it, and the bell housing area dips low, and it slides out.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 583
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
I managed to get the motor out okay after a bought with a stubborn bell housing bolt. I’m now preparing the 400 to drop in so I took out the plug in the block to put the knock sensor in and found the hole does not go all the way through the block. Is it supposed to? It goes in about ¼” – 3/8” and then it’s blocked as if it there was a frost pug in it? The one on the driver’s side is the same way.
I also am unable to get the plug out where the negative bat cable goes above the oil filter so I will have to put it on the motor mount that’s the only other place I can see to put it. Will this be okay?
I also am unable to get the plug out where the negative bat cable goes above the oil filter so I will have to put it on the motor mount that’s the only other place I can see to put it. Will this be okay?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 583
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
Thank Pete, I assume the hole goes into a water jacket then? Is it odd that the holes on both sides would be rusted solid?
What do you mean not through the bolt? If the hole on the drivers side is just rusted I could clear it and put the cable there?
What do you mean not through the bolt? If the hole on the drivers side is just rusted I could clear it and put the cable there?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Good job on getting it out. The first one can be intimidating. Yes the ground can go on a bell housing bolt. I am not an expert on the 400 block but will wager the hole where the knock sensor is simply plugged with rust.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
Good to hear, time to get to work my goal is to get the motor, intake (hsr), exhaust (duel no cats) and so on all put back together so I can start driving it on Monday. 
Going to be quite the undertaking but I should be able to get it done. So long as I don't run into any snags.
Going to be quite the undertaking but I should be able to get it done. So long as I don't run into any snags.
Last edited by My1st; May 7, 2011 at 09:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Maple Grove Minnesota
Engine is in, tranny w/new front seal in, C beam in. Torque converter bolts are next then exhaust. Then I can get out from under it and put the top half on and fire it up. 
There is a sensor on the back of the passenger side head does anyone know what it’s for?
There is a sensor on the back of the passenger side head does anyone know what it’s for?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: WAY UPSTATE NY