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Does anyone know if the clutch pivot takes an allen hex or a TorQ wrench?
I tried to loosen with a 12mm allen with no luck. It was very tight and I ended up rounding? I thought it was an allen but now I have doubts. I can't get enough free play to rotate the bell housing and remove without loosening the pivot. I would really appreciate any suggestions!
If you are trying to loosen it from the transmission side of the bellhousing you need to "tighten" it or turn clockwise. It bottoms out on the inside (IIRC) and you are on the opposite side so you have to turn it the opposite way.
If you are trying to loosen it from the transmission side of the bellhousing you need to "tighten" it or turn clockwise. It bottoms out on the inside (IIRC) and you are on the opposite side so you have to turn it the opposite way.
Yep. Ya gotta turn it backwards. Clockwise to loosen. Many folks have been tripped up by this.
I don't seem able to move the fork. My guess is that the disc wear has taken up all of the slack. I can see the slot in the fork opens to release the pivot toward the crank centerline. Is there anything mechanical that keeps the fork from disengaging the TO bearing?
I don't seem able to move the fork. My guess is that the disc wear has taken up all of the slack. I can see the slot in the fork opens to release the pivot toward the crank centerline. Is there anything mechanical that keeps the fork from disengaging the TO bearing?
No. There is just a spring inside the bell housing that will release when you pull the clutch fork away from the throwout bearing. You may have to turn the throw-out bearing so the flats are aligned right for removal. Also make sure the clutch slave cylinder has been removed.
Use a screwdriver to get some leverage on the clutch fork and move it as far away from the throwout bearing as you can get it. Make sure all the bellhousing bolts are removed and wiggle the bellhousing so it helps the clutch fork past the throw-out bearing.
Now, once you get the case removed you will need to remove/grind some material from the magnesium case so that next time removal will be easier.
I don't understand where/why I would grind my case (bell housing?)
J
There is a slot in the bellhousing that the fork fits into in order to release from the throwout bearing. In my case it needed a little clearancing in order to allow the clutch fork to fully disengage for removal. Once you get bellhousing off you will see what I'm talking about. The clearancing cannot be done until the bellhousing is removed.
If you are trying to loosen it from the transmission side of the bellhousing you need to "tighten" it or turn clockwise. It bottoms out on the inside (IIRC) and you are on the opposite side so you have to turn it the opposite way.
I have never had to grind anything off my bellhousing. If I take all the bolts out I can get the bellhousing off by rotating it around the throw out bearing and pulling.
I have never had to grind anything off my bellhousing. If I take all the bolts out I can get the bellhousing off by rotating it around the throw out bearing and pulling.
Hmm...Maybe mine was the only one that didn't fit right. After my modification I can slide the fork all the way off the throw out bearing so I don't have to wiggle the bellhousing.
Hmm...Maybe mine was the only one that didn't fit right. After my modification I can slide the fork all the way off the throw out bearing so I don't have to wiggle the bellhousing.
Do you have PICS of this modification...sounds interisting.
Do you have PICS of this modification...sounds interisting.
No sorry I didn't take pics. It was really just a small amount of shaping the bellhousing so the fork disengaged better. Less than an 1/8th inch with a pneumatic porting tool. 5 minutes work to save 45 minutes later.