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As of 4/21/2011 my 1985 Z/51 corvette spun a crank bearing. It ate the crank away past the point of where it could be turned. I am currently looking for different setups to run. The cylinders have some scoring so it's getting bored .30 over. I know I want to go with the 195cc AFR heads and I plan on picking up a SR intake. I am still unsure on what kind of pistons/rods/cam ect. will best complement the 195's and the SR.
There it is so far this is my first TPI engine build so any tips or suggestions will be helpful/greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance Trey.
I just finished installing a 396 Super Ram/AFR 195 build in my 85. If you're looking for a street car with tons of torque and 500 Hp, here's the recipe:
4 bolt main roller block
Eagle 3.875 forged crank
Crower Sportsman Stroker forged rods
SRP flat top forged pistons
Crower 221/230 roller cam - good match for SR RPM range
Super Ram intake (ported if possible)
AFR 195 Street heads with 65cc chambers (11:1 CR) They will provide all the flow needed for a ported SR.
Comp Cams Ultra Gold roller rockers
1-3/4 inch headers
A professional tune
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Originally Posted by EllingtonIII
I know I want to go with the 195cc AFR heads and I plan on picking up a SR intake. I am still unsure on what kind of pistons/rods/cam ect. will best complement the 195's and the SR.... This is my first TPI engine build so any tips or suggestions will be helpful/greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance Trey.
Look for someone locally who's got a good rep. Not having to pay shipping will help alot (especially if it's both ways).
AFR 195's are a great pick. I think at 383 or 396 is the way to go...great choice. So is a 4-bolt truck block. The lightweight SRP pistons are even better. Beyond that, you could let your builder help you pick the parts.
No need to go too crazy on cam duration pairing the 195's with a SR. The 219LE cam is perfect...or anything in that neighborhood. You can add/subtract a bit (lobes/duration) to fine tune durability vs power.
You can even customize your kit. I have an iron 350 block that needs a hot tank cleaning. Something in the 370-400 hp area sounded nice. I figured instead of spending money to rebuild the same old 350 again, I would do a 383. That 396 sounds like a lot of fun too. Not sure how long a D36 would last behind either engine combos, even it wasn't being dragged (auto to manual swap).
Last edited by 1985 Corvette; Apr 27, 2011 at 11:56 PM.
I just finished installing a 396 Super Ram/AFR 195 build in my 85. If you're looking for a street car with tons of torque and 500 Hp, here's the recipe:
4 bolt main roller block
Eagle 3.875 forged crank
Crower Sportsman Stroker forged rods
SRP flat top forged pistons
Crower 221/230 roller cam - good match for SR RPM range
Super Ram intake (ported if possible)
AFR 195 Street heads with 65cc chambers (11:1 CR) They will provide all the flow needed for a ported SR.
Comp Cams Ultra Gold roller rockers
1-3/4 inch headers
A professional tune
You guys have me interested in the 383 build. What all would that invovle? Just changing the crank? I would prefer to keep the original block with the car. But that doesnt sound logical to build a 2 bolt main into a 383.
I like these kits but I am still unsure on what type of piston/rods to go with?
Thanks for all the advice I will keep everyone posted as my build progresses
You guys have me interested in the 383 build. What all would that invovle? Just changing the crank? I would prefer to keep the original block with the car. But that doesnt sound logical to build a 2 bolt main into a 383.
I like these kits but I am still unsure on what type of piston/rods to go with?
Thanks for all the advice I will keep everyone posted as my build progresses
There's a little more to it than changing the crank. You need a new rotating assembly. You're boring to .030 over so that means new pistons. You need a 3.75 crank and rods.
The block needs to be clearanced for the longer stroke crank. You may need a flex plate and balancer depending on how the rotating assembly is balanced (internal or external).
The key is finding a quality machinist. No matter what the advertisements say, kits are never ready to install out of the box. I would not trust a kit to be properly balanced. You're better off buying the parts and having a machinist check tolerances and do the balancing. Crank journals usually need to be polished, rod ends checked, etc. Blocks need to be properly decked, line honed and cylinders torque-plate honed.
If youre worried about the original block for collector stuff, dont its a run of the mill 2 bolt flat tappet block. Dime a dozen and noone wants them. You can run a 2 bolt 383 if youre not pushing it hard and use retrofit lifters too, an avenue to look into.
Or set yours aside and hunt a mid 90s truck block out they are already set up for a roller cam with 4 bolt mains.
They are a 1 piece rear main rather than 2 so keep that in mind....
On strokers your gains will be more than just a larger size, its the nature of the longer crank that makes them fun. Noticeably more torque everywhere, low rpm part throttle, etc. Not just at peak
For the street a 4 in bore long stroker motor will be lots more fun than one with the stock stroke but larger bore (meaning getting the same C.I)
have fun