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I am wondering if I have a Vats issue... Will the fuel pump still engage if I have a vats issue on a 1986? Sometimes it won't even turn over, other times it will turn over/start, but immediately die like it isn't get fuel.... Other times it start right up...I have on my mind bypassing the vats... I read on another thread you could do it behind the bread box...
I have also noticed the security light will flash if I have the door open even with the key in it & turned to on...
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Vats will not let the starter turn over. Not positive about the 1986 but on my 1989 I installed a jumper to bypass VATS under the drivers side dash. It is available from the Corvette catalogs and is plug and play.
Vats will not let the starter turn over. Not positive about the 1986 but on my 1989 I installed a jumper to bypass VATS under the drivers side dash. It is available from the Corvette catalogs and is plug and play.
Thanks for the response/info...
That sounds like my issue at the moment.. Will the fuel pump still engage?
I read where you can add a jumper behind the breadbox to bypass it, but I am not 100% sure that is the issue..
Vats does not control the fuel pump. It allows starter enable (engage) and sends a signal to the ECM---without this signal the ECM will not pulse the fuel injectors. In short VATS doesn't control fuel pressure, but it does control whether or not fuel gets to the combustion chamber.
Vats does not control the fuel pump. It allows starter enable (engage) and sends a signal to the ECM---without this signal the ECM will not pulse the fuel injectors. In short VATS doesn't control fuel pressure, but it does control whether or not fuel gets to the combustion chamber.
Thanks for the info.. I wasgoing to remove the bread box and jump the relay, but I believe that will be a little too big of a project for me.. I have the negative cable off of it now hoping it will reset... The weird thing is that mine isn't reseting.. I though I read it should reset after 4 minutes.. I think I will leave the cable off until tomorrow morning and see if that helps...
What you are describing does not sound like vats at all. If it is cranking vats
Currently it isn't cranking/turn over at all.. it does everything, but crank.... Right now I can get it to turn over at all... Turn the key on and then the dash will light up... turn the key on over (like you were going to start it and nothing happens.. I know it isn't the battery... I took the battery out of it and put it in my truck.. The truck started right up...
I took the battery form the truck and placed it in the Vette... The same thing happened it would turn over..
I will say I turn the lights on and cranked it & the lights didn't dim, which nakes me think the starter isn't pulling any power.. That led me to think that that Vats system...
Other times it will turn over, fire and then die right back off like it doesn't have fuel.... then you can let it sit for a few and it fire right up....
If it will not crank over right now take a volt meter and see if you have 12 volts on the main lug at the starter. then have someone turn the key to crank and see if you have 12 volts on the s term at the starter. You need 12 volts on both while trying to crank. See what you have there and lets us know
If it will not crank over right now take a volt meter and see if you have 12 volts on the main lug at the starter. then have someone turn the key to crank and see if you have 12 volts on the s term at the starter. You need 12 volts on both while trying to crank. See what you have there and lets us know
Okay.. Hopefully I can get it tested on Sunday.. Thanks
VATS shuts down the fuel injectors and the starter, it works through the resistor in the key. I did a Vats-pendectomy and am very happy with the results. I no longer walk home.
The sensor and the computer are not good for this long. The key gets worn, the computer switch becomes iffy, The fix is to rechip the computer (turn the fans on sooner at the same time) splice two wires behind the radio and that is it. No more walking
VATS shuts down the fuel injectors and the starter, it works through the resistor in the key. I did a Vats-pendectomy and am very happy with the results. I no longer walk home.
The sensor and the computer are not good for this long. The key gets worn, the computer switch becomes iffy, The fix is to rechip the computer (turn the fans on sooner at the same time) splice two wires behind the radio and that is it. No more walking
I went out hooked up the ground cable and she turned right over... Didn't start, but it does that fairly often (I have to wait 5 minutes & it ill start)... hat 2 wires did you splice? I currently have the radio out of it due to it quit working..
Last edited by cutnitclose; May 21, 2011 at 08:37 AM.
Update.. Went out 5 minutes later and she fired right up... I let it sit there and run for 5 minutes...
I disconnected the ground cable as I want be able to do anything with it until late tonight...I am wondering if it will turn over if I keep the ground disconnected (never have tried that)...
Drop in at your favorite AUDIO shop, ask them to determine the OHM on your Ign key, then as them for a resistor in the same range, then just unplug the connector from the VATS at the base of the steering column, and insert the resistor into the "car side" of the connector, and tape securely, and you will effectively by pass the VATS. With the resistor in place, your system will think the key is in place, and no more starting problems due to the broken wire in your steering column connected to the ignition switch, which controls the VATS. GG
Went out tonight and attached the grond cable with the thought it would start (like it did this morning)... Of course I was wrong...... It wouldn't hit a lick.. Everything comes up, but won't turn over...lol.. I guess I will try it again in the morning..
Well I think I found the problem (fingers crossed for good luck)... I pulled the starter relay and it was full of crud/gunk.... I guess it is from 26 years of dirt and grime.. I looked like someone had poured a coke in there... I cleaned it really good with some electronic/contact cleaner & it fired right up... I am afraid to say it is fixed, but I will update as the week goes on to let everyone know....
Thanks again to everyone for the help/info/suggestion.. Hopefully it is good to go now..
I pulled the starter relay and it was full of crud/gunk.. I cleaned it & it fired right up... I am afraid to say it is fixed,
Remove and bypass the starter relay altogether ( the two wires to be joined as mentioned above)
You will still have security because VATS won't let any fuel into the engine unless the correct key is in the ign
Originally Posted by easyrider41@q.com
just unplug the connector from the VATS at the base of the steering column, and insert the resistor into the "car side" of the connector,
you will effectively bypass the VATS.
So long as the VATS module and starter relay are operating correctly.
If either are faulty ;the resistor " trick " will achieve little
Remove and bypass the starter relay altogether ( the two wires to be joined as mentioned above)
You will still have security because VATS won't let any fuel into the engine unless the correct key is in the ign
So long as the VATS module and starter relay are operating correctly.
If either are faulty ;the resistor " trick " will achieve little
I think I will possibly remove the relay if it acts up again.. So far it has cranked everytime (fingers crossed & knocking on the wooden coffe table)