Been chasing a coolant leak it seams forever. Started at least 3 years ago. Found more than 1 in that time and fixed but there was 1 more. Had to refill every 2 or 3 weeks. Not much. Probably only a couple cups.
Changed my oil today and thought I'd look some more.
Seemed very wet in back of where the timing mark is and in back of the water pump. Weep hole has always been dry.

Happened to see something between the pump and the engine. This is what I pulled out,



If this is really the gasket the holds the 2 parts together, why wouldn't coolant pour out?
Water pump replaced in 04 about 22,000 miles ago

 

It would pour out if that was the gasket being used. I imagine that was part of the old one from 04.

 

If that's true, I don't know how it could have happened. I cleaned everything as well as possible. If that is what it is, I'm wondering if a piece of it is still under the new gasket causing the leak. No way to see.

 

You should be able to tell where it's leaking if you use a flash light and mirror. It could be the water pump gaskets, it also could be coolant seeping though the waterpump bolts if thread seal wasn't used.

 

Do you have an Opti Spark???

 

not on an 85

 

thread seal? No, not used.
There is a gasket around the bolt. Why would I need a thread sealant?

 

To keep coolant from seeping through the threads and by the bolt heads. If you take the water pump bolts out, coolant will gush out.

 

Get yourself a coolant pressure tester or rent one, put it where the radiator cap goes, then pump it up to 15psi. Pull out out your flashlight and I guarantee you will find your leak.

 

Well that sucks. I don't remember putting anything on the bolts when I installed it. Wonder if I can get the bolts out without taking everything apart again.
What kind of sealant to use?

 

The stuff I use is just called "thread sealant". I've used rtv silicone before with no problems. I'd sure verify where the leak is coming from first though. It could just be a leaking hose or thermostat housing. It could even be coming from the intake manifold or the hose to the bottom of the throttle body.

I think you could get to 2 of your waterpump bolts pretty easily, I believe the passenger side bolts are behind the ac bracket.

 

3 years?

As mentioned go down to Autozone and either purchase or rent their cooling system pressure tester and pressurize the system. I use this thing so much I bought my own. Great tool. If you've never used one it's simple. Take the radiator cap off and attach the tester in it's place. No adapter required for the vette. Now pump the system to no more than 16 psi on the guage. Since you have leaks pressure should not hold. Go around the engine looking for the leak. Depending on how bad you should be able to see or hear the leak. If nothing is leaking externally then it's either leaking at the heater core in the dash or internally inside the engine.

That looks like a piece of thermostat housing gasket. I assume that since you did the water pump you also did the thermostat (which you should have done) and it's your own debri when you scraped the old gasket off. And yes using no sealant on the water pump bolts was a mistake. They require thread sealant since they tap into the engine's water jackets. Without it coolant will leak past the threads. These are not blind holes.

If it's not coming from the water pump bolts or gaskets the only thing above that is the intake base. Look at the parting line between the intake manifold and the heads.

 

Thanks for the info, You are probably right about the gasket. The thermostat is exactly where it probably came from. Replaced yr before last I believe.

 

anyone ever use their compressor to put 15 lbs through the overflow tube to test?

 

No.Won't work.Need to use correct tool.You could use your compressor with correct fitting that screws on where the radiator cap is with the pressure tester piece.Have it regulated to 15psi but it would be best just to use the correct tool.You can rent them for free but have to put down a deposit first.Putting pressure into the overflow would not work as radiator cap seals below that area & putting air pressure would just fill the area between the radiator caps top seal & the bottoms seal on the radiator cap when on the radiator itself.You might be able to make it work if you cut off the spring part of the radiator cap with the lower seal so all you have is the top seal on the cap,basically cutting the radiator cap in half(view when holding the radiator cap sideways.Just rent tool or drive car or let it idle & look with quality light.If real hard to find,add some UV dye & have a UV light & the glasses that come with the light & you WILL find it for sure

 

I would not try to make some type of home made contraption using an air compressor. You let too much pressure into the system you might bust the radiator or some hoses. Plus it's too much time and effort messing around with all that crap when you can just go rent the right tool basically for free.

Our local Oreilly's and Pepboys also have tool rental programs like Autozone. I also use it to verify a leak free install after I do any type of cooling system work, such as a water pump, intake or head gasket repair for example.

Here's mine. Got if free using my Autozone Rewards cash.

 

You guys ruin all my ideas

I guess I'll need to get hold of one somewhere

 

Just pull out each bolt one at a time, seal and replace. Then do another bolt.
You will not lose your gasket seal this way.
RTV is fine to seal with.

the bolt that GUSHES water out, is the one leaking. it will be the lower one left side of the engine.
your leaky bolt will be dirty and rusty (maybe). clean it on your wire wheel and if you can tap the hole out CAREFULLY.

even if that is not your leak, you have helped the car some.