ARP Main stud install Q!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
St. Jude Donor '13
ARP Main stud install Q!
I am re-assembling my engine with ARP main studs, i do not have the instructions, however can can anyone confirm if the block side of the stud threads get assembly lube.
Head studs that go into dry holes on other application with ARP studs don't get lube on the block side threads, just needs to confirm the Main studs install instructions for the ARP sbc kit.
Thanks.
Head studs that go into dry holes on other application with ARP studs don't get lube on the block side threads, just needs to confirm the Main studs install instructions for the ARP sbc kit.
Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Try here:
http://arpinstructions.com/?src=arp-bolts-home
Head bolts/studs screw into the water jacket, not sure about lube but wager there must be sealer.
http://arpinstructions.com/?src=arp-bolts-home
Head bolts/studs screw into the water jacket, not sure about lube but wager there must be sealer.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
from my main stud kit # 134-5601
" To ensure proper thread engagment and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block.Re-tap only if necessary.
Screw studs into the block " HAND TIGHT ONLY "
Note: Loctite may be used if a permanent mounting of the studs is preferred. The fasteners.however, must be torqued prior to the Loctite setting up.
Install main caps and check for binding or misalignment. Lubricate the threads of the studs, nuts and washers with ARP Moly Assembly lubricant or 30wt motor oil.
Preload (torque) recommendations:
Torque vales are based on 75% of the fasteners yeild strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for ARP moly assembly lubricant or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil. "
" To ensure proper thread engagment and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block.Re-tap only if necessary.
Screw studs into the block " HAND TIGHT ONLY "
Note: Loctite may be used if a permanent mounting of the studs is preferred. The fasteners.however, must be torqued prior to the Loctite setting up.
Install main caps and check for binding or misalignment. Lubricate the threads of the studs, nuts and washers with ARP Moly Assembly lubricant or 30wt motor oil.
Preload (torque) recommendations:
Torque vales are based on 75% of the fasteners yeild strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for ARP moly assembly lubricant or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil. "
Pro
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 677
Likes: 3
From: Metairie LA
Used these throughout in my build. Block side of the main studs go in dry. Put them in hand tight only. Lube goes on the nut (to help with tourque down).
Head studs - do yourself a favor and get liquid teflon thread sealer. I used the permatex brand. I originally used the ARP sealer and had coolant seepage from the majority of them - all head bolts interface with the water jacket.
This worked for me.
Head studs - do yourself a favor and get liquid teflon thread sealer. I used the permatex brand. I originally used the ARP sealer and had coolant seepage from the majority of them - all head bolts interface with the water jacket.
This worked for me.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
I've done main stud kits before: I've always set them into the block with epoxy. The procedure went like this:
Clean all threads; use brake clean or something similiar to remove any oil; blow out stud holes with compressed air;
liberally apply epoxy steel (i.e. JB Weld) to both the stud and the hole. Torque to 35 foot pounds. Remove any epoxy that oozes out. Allow epoxy to set up.
install cap. Apply oil or locktite, your choice, to the nuts and threads. Torque to specified amount.
cast iron is a soft metal; having bolts turned in and torqued to high values has got to affect the threads...this techique puts all the high torque values and potential for wear on the hardned steel stud and nut.
removing epoxied fastners is easy; epoxy and loctite are funny things; at normal engine operating temps they hold and maintain a strong bond. heating the surrounding cast iron with a hand held propane torch....which isn't a lot of heat...causes the epoxy to change to a plastic state which releases it hold and it acts almost like a thread lubricant.
Clean all threads; use brake clean or something similiar to remove any oil; blow out stud holes with compressed air;
liberally apply epoxy steel (i.e. JB Weld) to both the stud and the hole. Torque to 35 foot pounds. Remove any epoxy that oozes out. Allow epoxy to set up.
install cap. Apply oil or locktite, your choice, to the nuts and threads. Torque to specified amount.
cast iron is a soft metal; having bolts turned in and torqued to high values has got to affect the threads...this techique puts all the high torque values and potential for wear on the hardned steel stud and nut.
removing epoxied fastners is easy; epoxy and loctite are funny things; at normal engine operating temps they hold and maintain a strong bond. heating the surrounding cast iron with a hand held propane torch....which isn't a lot of heat...causes the epoxy to change to a plastic state which releases it hold and it acts almost like a thread lubricant.
