C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT 4 won't start

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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Default LT 4 won't start

I had an issue with my 96 LT-4 today, was running on track for a couple laps, then the engine just seemed to die out, seemed like no fuel at first like when a fuel pump fails, pulled off track and car started right up,,, then went out again and car died, will not start at all now, fuel pump turns on with key and there is fuel pressure at the motor, cranks over good,,, any ideas... optispark, crankshaft sensor??? I read a little in the manual bad fuel injectors could cause a no start condition, car has 120K on it,,, where to start?
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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How much fuel pressure are you seeing. Is the engine cutting out on corners or in straight aways?

My magic 8 ball is pointing toward your opti. High miles and intermittent no run condition.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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When it won't start, see if you have spark. See if you have spark from the spark coil. Use a noid light (available at parts store) and see if you have pulses at the injectors. Measure fuel pressure, it should be 35-42 psi and it should hold up for at least 1/2 hr after the ign is turned off.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Fuel and spark are the best places to start your search. I know mine has cut out under wot acceleration when the fuel level was low. That reading can be tricky when you get down to three bars.

Another important thing to look at is oil pressure, If you get below 4# the switch will cut off fuel, I believe.

Have you tried starting it cold? What happened? I have heard of the coil and ICM going out when hot, being located on the front of the passenger side head.

Good luck, I hope it's nothing serious.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Lots of good advice. Some things to check that will cause a hard or no restart when hot...

- Fuel Pressure Regulator. Pull the vacuum line off and check for fuel. If fuel is present the regulator is bad
- Does it restart when cold and then die when it gets hot? If so, this tends to point towards the ICM.
- Does it pop and try to fire when cranking? This is often a sign that the rotor has come loose inside the opti, essentially throwing the ignition system out of time. I had this happen on mine....at over 100mph, full throttle, exiting a banked corner, in traffic. Really bad time to have the engine die

If I was going to bet, I'd lean towards the ICM or the Opti.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 11:19 PM
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thanks to all so far..... we pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and it was dry,,, the car still does not start at all,,, it cranks real fast i guess due to no fuel and spark whether it is due to the pcm telling it to or not,,, pulled the coil wire off the optispark and got no spark, pulled the wire off the coil and got no spark, pulled the factory electrical plugs off the ignition control module - it seems the green wire has power with key on, black with yellow/tan stripe is ground, red wire has power with key on, the yellow wire has nothing,,, is this right? also checked the coil plug - red has power with key on and green wire has nothing,,, is this right? I would assume one wire in each plug should have power when key is turned to start position but we did not see this,,,, I will check the actual fuel pressure tomorrow when I can borrow a friends guage and I'll post the result,,,
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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fuel pressure is 47psi, checked terminal c of factory plug to optispark and it has power, checked terminal d and it has continuity,,,, does anyone know if the coil feeds power to the optispark or does the optispark feed power to the coil???
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Next to the spark coil is the spark module which receives a pulse from the optispark and the spark module pulses the spark coil to make a spark. You either have a defective spark coil, spark module, or no pulse from the optispark. I believe some auto parts stores can test your spark module. You need to confirm that your coil, spark module is good and that you are getting pulses from the optispark.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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we tested the ignition control module, terminals a and d have 11.56V which I consider 12V as the car was not running, we put the battery on trickle charge for now,,, terminal C is ground, and the white wire terminal B has 1 to 4 V dc while cranking.... so I guess it means its working and maybe not getting spark signal from pcm, coil has 12V on power side with key on,,, checking the coil it had about 2200 ohms... is this okay??? I know they said the range should be 5000 to 7000.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by firstlt4
we tested the ignition control module, terminals a and d have 11.56V which I consider 12V as the car was not running, we put the battery on trickle charge for now,,, terminal C is ground, and the white wire terminal B has 1 to 4 V dc while cranking.... so I guess it means its working and maybe not getting spark signal from pcm, coil has 12V on power side with key on,,, checking the coil it had about 2200 ohms... is this okay??? I know they said the range should be 5000 to 7000.
You need to actually pull the ICM off and have it checked under load vs a simple voltage check.

Pull the coil wire off the opti (leave the other end attached to the coil). Ground the loose end, crank the engine and look for a spark. That will tell you if the coil and ICM are working. If there's no spark, at least you know the issue if upstream of the Opti. If there is a spark, the Opti is the likely culprit.

It's pretty unusual for the PCM to fail.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 11:25 PM
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I'll also mention that several of us that run track days have had the rotor come loose inside the Opti. It'll sometimes exhibit the exact symptoms you've described while other times, once it's dead, it's dead.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by firstlt4
we tested the ignition control module, terminals a and d have 11.56V which I consider 12V as the car was not running, we put the battery on trickle charge for now,,, terminal C is ground, and the white wire terminal B has 1 to 4 V dc while cranking.... so I guess it means its working and maybe not getting spark signal from pcm, coil has 12V on power side with key on,,, checking the coil it had about 2200 ohms... is this okay??? I know they said the range should be 5000 to 7000.
The coil seems suspect at that resistance, and the 1-4volts on terminal B should be checked on the AC scale on the meter, not DC. This is the PCM telling the ICM to fire the coil. This should be checked with the plug removed from the ICM.

Put a spare plug wire on the coil, as it can be a pain to get it on and off the opti, and run it to ground to see if the coil is firing.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
You need to actually pull the ICM off and have it checked under load vs a simple voltage check.

Pull the coil wire off the opti (leave the other end attached to the coil). Ground the loose end, crank the engine and look for a spark. That will tell you if the coil and ICM are working. If there's no spark, at least you know the issue if upstream of the Opti. If there is a spark, the Opti is the likely culprit.

It's pretty unusual for the PCM to fail.
The voltage check on terminal B is to see if the ICM is even being told to fire the coil, this test is not actually an ICM test.
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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oh yeah I meant AC, it varied between 1 and 4 AC,,, I will re-check,,, thanks everyone!
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Default updated lt4 won't start

FIXED.... ended up being the Ignition Control Module. Thanks for all the input everyone... back on the road again
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