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The other day one of my friends was interested in the 4 inch tips on my mufflers, so I started the car and revved it to let him hear. The engine was cold, and it died right after I revved it. I also found out that any moderate to heavy acceleration when it's just been started causes the same thing. It's been like this for a while now. I've just put new Bosch 3s in, and done a lot of other regular maintenance stuff to it. I will do other tests tomorrow though.
TPS set to .546 volts
New IAC and adjusted properly
Like I mentioned earlier, regular maintenance stuff like spark plugs and wires are new. My dad didn't believe me on this one, but today when I got home the engine was still warm after sitting for about an hour. We went out to look at it and he revved it at WOT and it stalled again. Started right back up, but smelled VERY rich for a few seconds. Could it be possible that I got something wrong when I removed the AIR pump and EGR? Someone told me that it isn't necessary to make a block off plate where the EGR pipe goes to the manifold, so I left it open.
Last edited by tehcarguy; Jun 7, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
I had similar troubles. Check the idle RPM against the dash reading. I was using the dash rpm and found it was reading 100 rpm high.(engine was lower than the dash) There is a oil pressure switch behind / under the distributor. If you have low oil psi the switch cuts off the fuel flow. you can jump the switch with a paper clip and try it. I would also check for vac leaks - as that is important with the stock setup. If the egr valve hangs up or closes slow the engine may stall when you go to idle. temp. unplug the egr and try it again. plug the vac line. if you removed the egr valve plug the holes.
Sorry I didn't mention this, but this issue has been resolved.
You should post what fixed the problem. These threads are not only a good way for you too find help, but also for the next guy(with the same issue's) who use the search function.
My car, a 1985, stick sat for over 10 years. In my case the problem was the oil pressure switch,for the fuel pump. Which soon failed, what a mess. Then the fuel pressure regulator followed 3 months later. At that point memories of my 1985 Camaro came back and since I was off emissions I went with a carb and manifold with 6AL box. Better gas mileage and more reliable. Easy to fix and run now. Car also reves better and feels stronger.
I also figured I would need injectors soon and the cost would be more than the 6AL, regulator, carb and manifold which was under $500.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Jun 17, 2011 at 11:58 AM.
You should post what fixed the problem. These threads are not only a good way for you too find help, but also for the next guy(with the same issue's) who use the search function.
I did, in post 6. The switching valve behind the distributor had a vacuum leak. Thanks for the help guys!