The 383 short block showed up today Ya.

I took it apart I dont want to go though what I did with the 355 short block 3000 miles and have to pull it back out again.

First they told me it going to be a roller Block well it has the bosses for it but not drilled for it.

I either going to do that my self or I have a machine shop do it I have to call one and see how going to cost before I let a machine shop do the work.

Back to the Block I took it a part to a bare block it was full of oil after i got it a part I cleaned out ALL the oil passageways the crank had some grim in it not a lot but I did not like it.
There some scracthes on the main bearings very light marks on it. that inclues the cam bearings i looks like it had a cam it it once before.

The bores looked alright honing looked okay also.

At least this block was not sleaved.

After I get the block tapped for the OEM roller cam set up I put back toghether and stick back into the car.

I did E-Mail the company that built the short block and told them they should take a closer look at there QA and make sure there motors are clean before sending them out for sale.

1 thing you must keep in mind the poor guy must likley build couple motors per day and he not going to look at everything you and I would building our own motors up.

If he gets paid piece work more motors he pushes out the door more money the person makes.

I sure he cares but not we would building our own from the ground up, they just grabing the parts off the rack and putting them togheter.

 

Man this motor dirty inside.

I sure they hot tank it but not scrub it clean.

But like I said before when you build your own you take more time to make sure it where you like it.

I should done this with the first motor.

 

Marv, did you check the clearances?

 

Main caps 1, 2 and 3 .0020 4 and 5 .0015, Using plastigage.

I need to put the pistons and rods back in tomarrow I check them then.

I also have to drill some holes and tap them for the Spider and front cam plate.

Know big deal and yes I mask everything else off so I dont get trash back in to the motor.

 

For all the work you're doing disassembling and checking and reassembling the motor, sounds like you could have purchased a quality machined block, a good rotating assembly and assembled your motor yourself.

 

Marv what would bother me now is if anything happens to this motor they are going to put the blaim on you. I think you just blew any warrenty you may have had. Not being an *** just a concern you may have to think about or deal with,

 

I hope this story ends better than its start.

 

I think if he just takes it apart cleans it better and puts it back together, nobody will know the difference.

 

Only the bazillion people on the forum. If he does it correctly, it will live and it wont matter.

 

any of you guy s have any clearance problems with the harmonic balancer for the 383, ??

 

I didn't. Internally balanced with 6 3/4" balancer.

 

No one will say CHIT here.


I would being the same as you.

Disassemble the engine & clearance check all.
I have a micrometer set that measures 0-5 " inches with accuracy down to 1/10,000 inch.
And have dial bore gauges for checking valveguide ID & cylinder walls.

Plastic gauge OK for at home checks.

 

I been E-Mailing the company that built the motor and letting them Know everything I have found wrong with it.

But This time around it should work fine.

the last motor ran but when I went to put a hotter cam in it this when I found out the bearing were bad after I took down to the bare block and cleaned it up getting ready to rebuil the 355 when the sleaved cylinder and the cracks comming from the sleave this when I started rasing the BS flag.

I was going to rebuild the 355 to a 383 untill I found the block was cracked.


As for the dirt you must remember the comp is trying to make the most money from us as they can.

So they are not going to clean out as good as you would self if you built it your self.

Not saying what they did was the right thing to do I just got the one was a POS and if I didnt do a cam swap I would never know it was going to blow until it did.

 

Installed the crank rods pistons, Drilled and tapped the bosses for the roller cam set Up.

The new cam and other odds and ends should be here tomarrow So I should have most of it in the new motor so I can put back into the car this Sunday with any luck.

I would taken some pictures but I dont have time This is kind of a push to get done project at least get the motor back into the car.

 

Good thing you found what you did when you did.
Not an ea$y lesson though.

Seems no matter how well you clean a new mill there will always be some shmutz somewhere. That first oil change


Keep at it.

 

Installed the Oil pan Cam complete Valve train Heads Intake all the senders.

I found I need to space the water punp out to clear the 2 Pc timing cover, and have to order a new timing mark my old one will not work with the new HB.primed the oil system.

Tomarrow I put the rest of the intake on wire it up put on the valve covers.

Then wait for more parts.

 

A dirty new engine?? If I was you I would report them to the state bureau.

I went thru hell when I reported the differential shop to the B.A.R. but, at the end they received a bad report for their files and did not fight my credit card dispute.

I won but, I lost time, money and got my blood pressure up few times thanks to those bozos.

If you buy something "new" it is to be in good condition and looks like you are already shafted.

 

Oh I just saw your profile, you live in CA.

You are in luck friend. I got all the info for you.

Wait for my PM.

 

I been though the bar for my transmission.

You asked me about them.

 

Between saving some more money to finish the Vett.

Taking the family on vacation, Trading the Truck in for a Land Rover and trying to find extra time.

With any luck by the end of next month I be able to drive the Vett once again.:duel: