C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Anyone replaced that pipe?

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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
Default Anyone replaced that pipe?

The 89 has prestone leak. I that found it comes from the pipe connecting to the heather hose close to the water pump and goes all the way to the oil filter.

It looks that I will have to remove the belt tensionner and A/C connected to it, plus some hoses going to the air pump and a lot of other stuff.

But will it come out without removing major component?

It looks like the front tranny oil cooler hose on my C5 following a similar route where the steering rack, motor mount needs to be removed along with 30 + other steps that needs to be completed before we can remove the oil cooler pipe off the car.

I have the manual for my 84 and my 97, but the 89 is new in the familly an I have not ordered the manual yet.

Just want to know before I start tomorrow morning

more info on pics.







Last edited by vette747; Jun 10, 2011 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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I think you'll have to find that pipe used or salvage. It is, as you guessed, for your oil cooler setup. (Mine has one too.)

Because it was a nice option, most sales don't last terribly long for a factory oil cooler. Check to salvage dealer in C4Parts for sale,,,he's always got a couple of C4's parting out.

You might also consider having it repaired. I bet an hydraulic hose builder will be able to repair the leak, and/or cut/flair it so you can piece the ruptured section with common 3/4" heater hose.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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I just use a high quality 5/8" heater hose from the front to the cooler.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
I just use a high quality 5/8" heater hose from the front to the cooler.
Was it 5/8" vs 3/4"? I think you're right...3/4" is the size of the heater hose that it branches off of.

If you can secure the hose, that's not an unreasonable approach. But you gotta like the idea of having some hard-line where debris can get at the underside. Even reusing some sections of the pipe makes the routing more stable, don't you think?

If you cut the pipe (and section in heater hose), molded rigdes in the ends will help prevent leakage. (Forget the term for those humps.)

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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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"Rolled in Beads" is the term or word you are looking for Greg.

Special tool made for the racing fabricators by aftermarket to put that rolled in bead on metal tubing.

About a necessity to put those Beads in on discharge tubes on High boost Turbo & centrifugal blower cars.

Otherwise the silicone rubber joint couplings blow off on the discharge tubes.

BR
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:24 AM
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Mine had a hole rubbed into it by the frame... I just had it welded up.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Was it 5/8" vs 3/4"? I think you're right...3/4" is the size of the heater hose that it branches off of.

If you can secure the hose, that's not an unreasonable approach. But you gotta like the idea of having some hard-line where debris can get at the underside. Even reusing some sections of the pipe makes the routing more stable, don't you think?

If you cut the pipe (and section in heater hose), molded rigdes in the ends will help prevent leakage. (Forget the term for those humps.)

Hi Gregg, I used a 5/8" hose. For a street car, it's probably prudent to have some hard line in there. On my bracket car, hose is fine since iti doesn't get driven more than a mile at a time. Willie
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
Otherwise the silicone rubber joint couplings blow off on the discharge tubes.
Rolled bead...yep. Not sure if the OP could get by w/o them. Probably so, would be me guess -- especially if it were a short section that was difficult to slide the hose on/off without unmounting the hardpipe.

Or, if silicone "glued and set" before running the motor. Make one cut right where the leak is. Slide hose over both "new" ends. Run a bead of silicone inside each end before doing so. And, use hose clamps.

Course, welding is good too!
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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Thanks for all the good answers and advises. I went to the vette shop yesterday. They have an 89 they are parting out but it does not have the oil cooler option so I could not take the pipe from it.

I know a good welder who repairs my broken toys. I will select that option and if it does not work, I will execute the heater hose fix.

I have not started the repair yesterday because I had to replace rear tie rod on the C5 and I may go to the F1 grand prix this afternoon if it stops raining.

Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
...Or, if silicone "glued and set" before running the motor. Make one cut right where the leak is. Slide hose over both "new" ends. Run a bead of silicone inside each end before doing so. And, use hose clamps.

Course, welding is good too!
Thanks for the instructions.

Originally Posted by myk7
Mine had a hole rubbed into it by the frame... I just had it welded up.
Same problem here. Pipe has a hole because it rubbed on the frame.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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I used a heater hose, it had to be reduced down with some plumbing fittings to the oil cooler. So it was actually 2 hoses. Dummy me forgot the metal pipe when installing the engine, gave up in a hurry when I tried to put it in after the fact. Has worked good on the street for 4 years.
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